Cherry G80-3422LAMIT *NIB* | MX Blacks and weird Keycaps

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chzel

02 Jun 2015, 22:47

Your iron is probably too hot, or you take too much time and you overheat the pad.
Just to make sure, it doesn't have provision for ANSI, does it?

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Mal-2

02 Jun 2015, 22:50

Muirium wrote: Oh right, I stand corrected!

Is it possible to replace jumper wires with actual diodes and achieve NKRO by hand?
Probably not without a lot of trace-cutting. Many of the places for the jumper wires also have traces on the board connecting them.

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Muirium
µ

02 Jun 2015, 22:54

Fair enough. I'm new to Cherries. Thanks for telling me.

acolombo wrote: Now to the actual reason of the post. It's anything like NKRO, worst case scenario is 2KRO but mostly 4KRO...
Mostly 4KRO = 2KRO. The number is the lowest value. Even 2KRO boards (like my 122 key Model M) can report 4 keys correctly in some combinations. That's how regular Model Ms work around their 2KRO limit and don't mess up the mods.


@Chzel: ANSI support? That'd be lucky!

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acolombo

02 Jun 2015, 22:57

chzel wrote:Your iron is probably too hot, or you take too much time and you overheat the pad.
Just to make sure, it doesn't have provision for ANSI, does it?
Unfortunately not, the only "secret" things are holes for leds under capslock and numlock, and the three mounts for switches you can see under the actual leds.

About the soldering, please PM me some advices on which temperature to use for this kind of things ;)

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chzel

02 Jun 2015, 23:03

If your iron has temperature control, for soldering I'd use ~280 C for small pads and ~320 C for large ground planes or thick wires.
For desoldering I usually go for ~320 and go fast. Go in, heat the pad, add more solder, suck and out in 2-3 seconds.
That of course if you are using the good old deadly leaded solder and not the ROHS stuff. I have little experience with the latter, and I hate it!

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acolombo

02 Jun 2015, 23:14

chzel wrote:If your iron has temperature control, for soldering I'd use ~280 C for small pads and ~320 C for large ground planes or thick wires.
For desoldering I usually go for ~320 and go fast. Go in, heat the pad, add more solder, suck and out in 2-3 seconds.
That of course if you are using the good old deadly leaded solder and not the ROHS stuff. I have little experience with the latter, and I hate it!
Yeah D: I was at around 400℃, I tried lower temperatures but probably I need to change my tip for a bigger one, this one is too thin and has too little surface to transfer the heat. Probably it's more appropriate for SMD...

Some news for the GB:
Image
Packed all of them, still have to label some for the shipping, but the big work has been done.

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facetsesame
Mad Dasher

02 Jun 2015, 23:47

acolombo wrote: Some news for the GB:
Image
Packed all of them, still have to label some for the shipping, but the big work has been done.
Good work! I bet that's a satisfying scene to see!

Thanks for your efforts so far :)

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Muirium
µ

03 Jun 2015, 00:32

Thanks Acolombo. It's shipping time! Hope you've got wheels, or someone's coming to pick those up.

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acolombo

03 Jun 2015, 00:39

Muirium wrote:Thanks Acolombo. It's shipping time! Hope you've got wheels, or someone's coming to pick those up.
3 different couriers are going to pick them up at my place, I'll have some traffic going on this Thursday. Only your keyboards still need to be packed! Don't forget to PM me your address as PayPal friends payment doesn't share the shipping details ;)

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Muirium
µ

03 Jun 2015, 00:58

Yeah, you got it. That's me and Andy sorted out. Cheers!

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acolombo

03 Jun 2015, 21:41

Image Everything ready for tomorrow!

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Muirium
µ

03 Jun 2015, 21:43

Nice one. Wonder if this will beat Round 5? 7bit's sending my order out first. Could be close!

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beltet

03 Jun 2015, 23:11

chzel wrote: If your iron has temperature control, for soldering I'd use ~280 C for small pads and ~320 C for large ground planes or thick wires.
For desoldering I usually go for ~320 and go fast. Go in, heat the pad, add more solder, suck and out in 2-3 seconds.
That of course if you are using the good old deadly leaded solder and not the ROHS stuff. I have little experience with the latter, and I hate it!
I need to use ROHS stuff because i live in a small apartment with two children(leaded fumes even in very small quantity can harm the mental develeopment on children...). And in my experience ~350 C works good both for soldering and desoldering. You just have to be quite fast and have little solder on the tip. Recommend to train on something invaluable.
acolombo wrote: Yeah D: I was at around 400℃, I tried lower temperatures but probably I need to change my tip for a bigger one, this one is too thin and has too little surface to transfer the heat. Probably it's more appropriate for SMD...
I use one of these tips:
Spoiler:
Image
You can align it to get very much surface against the things to solder. And I always use a bit of solder on the tip for better heat transfer.

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facetsesame
Mad Dasher

03 Jun 2015, 23:31

acolombo wrote: Image Everything ready for tomorrow!
Cheers acolombo! I notice you might have the same scissors as me...

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acolombo

04 Jun 2015, 15:54

I gave everyone his tracking number ;) if you haven't received it yet pm me

They are probably not working till this evening / tomorrow as they get to the dispachment center

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facetsesame
Mad Dasher

04 Jun 2015, 20:00

Got it, thank you! Looking forward to seeing these legends :)

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Ray

08 Jun 2015, 11:33

Just arrived here. Thanks acolombo for organizing this!

In case someone wants to know: Caps are thin, lasered PBT. Totally unused, so the laser etching feels rough. All the caps have their profile according to their row, even the numpad and arrow-keys.
Cherry stabs

For those more interested in the board than the caps: No diodes so no NKRO, also feels a bit wobbly to me, but maybe that's normal for plate mount.

malcomkern

08 Jun 2015, 19:12

Also arrived here. Nicely done acolombo, thanks for doing the work.

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IonutZ

08 Jun 2015, 21:20

Hey sir, how much is shipping to USA, MI 48185?

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Nuum

08 Jun 2015, 21:46

Mine arrived as well, thank you very much for doing this, acolombo!

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Muirium
µ

08 Jun 2015, 21:47

No news from Britain yet, of course. I expect to be last. Fact of life with shipping to Scotland.

Have you guys pulled your boards out and had a look at the condition?

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gogusrl

09 Jun 2015, 09:56

Ray wrote: For those more interested in the board than the caps: No diodes so no NKRO, also feels a bit wobbly to me, but maybe that's normal for plate mount.
awww :(

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Muirium
µ

09 Jun 2015, 18:52

Much to my surprise, a Fed Ex van showed up and landed these today!
IMG_1581.JPG
IMG_1581.JPG (413.99 KiB) Viewed 937 times
Both these fellas are G80-3xxx series, eh? What a numbering system…
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IMG_1582.JPG (390.8 KiB) Viewed 937 times
I've got the beige hooked up to my Soarer box just now and it's working admirably. Yes: it's not NKRO. But the rollover is as good as a Model M, and just as well optimised. I can chord my mods just fine without having to resort to finger gymnastics. That's good enough for me to forget entirely about modding with diodes!

This is my first time (this century at least) typing on a G80 of any description. It's pretty good. The caps have a pleasant feel, I like the Cherry stabbed spacebar, and the PCB mount flex suits me nicely across the alphas where I'm quite a heavy typist anyway. The keys I'm less than impressed by are ISO Return in particular and the other stabbed keys on the right as well. They seem a bit janky to be honest. Space is a bit tippy too but doesn't seem to bother me as much. I'll analyse my thoughts later. After all, I've got that other Cherry board to review now as well.

The boards are in great shape, just like new, and so are their original boxes, thanks to a nice bit of packing by Acolombo. Thanks man! Great little GB!

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chzel

09 Jun 2015, 18:56

Mine arrived today as well! They are nice little boards!

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photekq
Cherry Picker

09 Jun 2015, 18:58

Clip those stabs Mu.

Also, looks like a more modern 3000 which have über crappy cases.

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chzel

09 Jun 2015, 18:59

Yeah, do clip a pair of stabs. If you don't like them, I'll send you a pair of unclipped!

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Muirium
µ

09 Jun 2015, 19:02

I guess I've a good excuse to try that now. Especially if you've got my back!

Little? Depends what else you're typing on I guess. It's among my larger boards actually, just because of being fullsize, yet it's impressively light. I like the rather simple styling too. even if our Cherry afficionado knows better!

Also like the multiple shades of caps. Are they ABS or PBT, I wonder? All I know is they're lasered.

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chzel

09 Jun 2015, 19:05

Lasered PBT, and I meant little as in unsubstantial! They are flexy and lightweight and fullsize, but they are quite comfortable to type on. The PCB is so thin it flexes like crazy, and the case is too thin to support it!

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Nuum

09 Jun 2015, 19:07

Most certainly PBT, but unfortunately quite thin.

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Muirium
µ

09 Jun 2015, 19:11

Oh yeah, I just pulled a cap and see what you mean. Thin as anything I've ever seen. But the PBT texture still makes them perfectly acceptable.

This is my first PCB mount MX board, too. My keypuller wanted to tug out the whole switch until I realised it was too deep!

The case… my goodness. That's some flex! Pick it up from opposite corners, give it a twist, and feel like a circus strongman at your flexing superpower!

And yet the actual feel of typing on it ain't bad at all.

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