Hey Go-Kart <3
Now thats lovely. i kinda want to hop on the trend of this ncr kit aswell :O
Hey Go-Kart <3
How does it sound? Does it have anice thock?
Looks good! Do you have any ideas for what type of case you’re going to make?ThermometerSandwich wrote: ↑20 May 2022, 22:25I finally got my 4704 guts up and running. I purchased a barrel plate, back plate, and pcb with an Xwhatsit pre-installed from Orihalcon a while back. New barrels, flippers, foam, and caps recently came from Model F Labs. I still need to finish the barrel plate and make a case, but it works like a dream!
You'll have to excuse the Ikea coaster "feet" and sticky note inserts for 2 of the relegendables lol
20220518_153520.jpg
Looks amazing! And you have your layout almost to the key exactly how I would lay out an F107!
Thanks! I really want to make a concrete case with a brass or stainless pencil holder. I'm going back and forth between replicating the original case or making a wedge-style case with an integrated wrist rest.thefarside wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 00:27Looks good! Do you have any ideas for what type of case you’re going to make?
Thanks! I've been using that layout on another board for several months now and I love it. The top two keys in the macro block are escape keys - if I just smack at that corner of the board I'll inevitably hit escape. I'll throw a 2u cap up there eventually.
Wow, that's just stunning! And I bet it feels and sounds as good as it looks.ThermometerSandwich wrote: ↑20 May 2022, 22:25I finally got my 4704 guts up and running. I purchased a barrel plate, back plate, and pcb with an Xwhatsit pre-installed from Orihalcon a while back. New barrels, flippers, foam, and caps recently came from Model F Labs. I still need to finish the barrel plate and make a case, but it works like a dream!
You'll have to excuse the Ikea coaster "feet" and sticky note inserts for 2 of the relegendables lol
I meant as a custom and as a less-messy alternative to concrete for ThermometerSandwich's 4704 above. Trying to turn a humorous suggestion into a slightly less unserious one. Sorry, I'm emoji-blind, those didn't exist for the first three quarters of my life.
Thanks! Feels good, sounds good.Polecat wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 04:56Wow, that's just stunning! And I bet it feels and sounds as good as it looks.
Concrete might get a bit messy, but has anyone ever made a case from resin or some other composite material? Back in the day I had a turntable made by Kenwood, and the base was made of some sort of resin that looked like granite. Very heavy and solid, whatever it was.
I did notice a bias in the registration angle. It's quite annoying. Once I put the plates back together and put caps on I tried to twist them straight. It kind of worked, but I suspect they'll drift back. I may have to file some notches in the barrel registration tabs next time I open the plate assembly. It's pretty clear to see in the attached pic. I wonder if ellipse knows?thefarside wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 14:31ThermometerSandwich did you notice any issues using the barrels from Model F Labs regarding key alignment? When I was restoring my F107 I wanted to see how well the new barrels worked with the old and noticed a significant offset between the the new barrels and old (pic below).The bottom row are the new barrels and you can see they aren’t aligned with the originals. I didn’t need them so I didn’t know if the offset would affect key alignment. Your keys look good but I thought I’d askSpoiler:
I didn't realize you were serious about the concrete! Strangely I have actually played with cast concrete, when we made some custom fire bricks (skulls) for the kid a couple years back. We used refractory (fireplace) cement from Amazon, Rutland was the brand I believe, with excellent results. It mixes thin, and has no sand or gravel so you get a smooth surface even with a finely detailed mold. We used some plastic Halloween skulls as molds, and were able to split them for removal and reused them several times. So I have no experience with making molds from scratch. But the stuff works really well and is easy to use.ThermometerSandwich wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 22:09
I'll definitely make a mess with concrete, but I can't get the idea out of my head now... lol I've dabbled in a lot of making over the years, but never concrete. I'm going to have a stainless substructure laser cut. It will show through where the keyblock dividers are and probably the pencil holder, so I will avoid having any concrete areas too thin. I was planning on having the concrete part be one-piece with the plate assembly installed through an open bottom and secured with screws from underneath into tapped holes in the substructure. Then, I'll put a metal cover over the bottom access opening and secure it with screws into similarly tapped holes. I will use glass fiber reinforced concrete. I'm not sure about the mold yet. I can resin print parts that all bolt together to make the mold or I can print a positive and silicone cast a mold around the positive... still not sure either way. The resin printed mold would be cheaper. I am very much open to any suggestions on concrete casting. I'll make a post in the workshop once I get started.
I'm into that too, so here's the NCR80 flexing edition! I have marked in the bottom case where the flexing cuts are and removed all braces in this area. First with a cutoff wheel on the grinder, then with a box cutter whose blade I heated over the lighter.
Wouldn't be too big a job to move round a hot swap socket or two.Jan Pospisil wrote: ↑26 May 2022, 13:19Speaking of the NCR80 - I know the solder pcb version can do ISO, but what about the hotswap one? The ali shop page doesn't say. (that I can see)