komar 60% board

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dirge

22 Dec 2012, 15:13

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Well this has just arrived :) xmas just gets better.

About to harvest switches and start soldering, 60% board in ISO format, happy days :D
Last edited by dirge on 24 Dec 2012, 08:21, edited 1 time in total.

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FJ_Sanchez

22 Dec 2012, 15:23

It looks great! By the way, do you have a spare one? Definitely interested.

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dirge

22 Dec 2012, 16:01

Over on geekhack is the thread for registering interest. A few boards were bought to iron out issues, this is one of them.

I really need a poker case...

gropingmantis

22 Dec 2012, 17:53

Would my keyboard layout be possible on this board?
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/my-f ... t4183.html

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dirge

22 Dec 2012, 18:21

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34959.0

The layouts are on geekhack mate, I'm not sure about the arrow cluster but its not a million miles off. 7bit's project will have more options on layout mind.

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dirge

23 Dec 2012, 12:29

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More pics with the lazered caps from the donar board.

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phetto
Elite

23 Dec 2012, 13:20

Nice dirge. No need to solder switches with this board, right?

You should snag this case for it, Duck Poker
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dirge

23 Dec 2012, 13:34

Where can you get those or are they Korean only?

mm87

23 Dec 2012, 14:20

They were from Korean GB, and sherryton ran a GB for us non-Koreans. Think he still has 1 or 2 silver ones available, but they aren't cheap ($285 + extra for shipping for non-US).

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guilleguillaume

23 Dec 2012, 15:12

You still can get one from Sherryton. He has some 2 left last time I checked his thread on GH.

Aleksander

23 Dec 2012, 15:53

Hmm I have one of those cases, would be nice with one to go with a GH60 project... Need a ISO plate for it thou....

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dirge

23 Dec 2012, 16:24

ISO plates shouldn't be to difficult, $285 is a little on the pricey side.. I remember now I don't think he offered shipping out the US? :(

I think I'd be happy with a plastic case, rather spend that kind of money on a hhkb or uk topre board at keyboardco. If it ever became my everyday board maybe the cost would be justified.

IvanIvanovich

23 Dec 2012, 19:09

Nice, can't wait for mine to arrive... I've had all my parts including a case ready for it for what seems like ages now.

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dirge

23 Dec 2012, 19:35

lysol, if you can get a plate sorted first. I would also recommend soldering the switches first. I've got a dodgy connection somewhere and pushing those switches in does flex the board a bit mate.

Apart from that take care with the x1 connection, bit of a nightmare unless you've got a fine tip and flux. If you haven't got a heat gun, take your time and flux is your friend :)

IvanIvanovich

23 Dec 2012, 20:08

I believe komar was doing all the SMD stuff for me, I don't have the skill or equipments for those tiny things. I don't intend to have a plate mount, nor will I with production version either. I can't imagine it could flex more than the Poker...
but I haven't had much problems with flexing on Poker that others seem to. Only a little bit on the top row from 5-8.

komar007

24 Dec 2012, 00:15

Just to clarify: I wasn't doing any smd work. Talk to WFD before he gets the parts and sends them to you, if you're not going to solder yourself!

IvanIvanovich

24 Dec 2012, 02:32

I seem to recall having a conversation with you about this before, and I was thinking you had agreed to that. Oh well, I hope someone will then as I would surely ruin it if I have to try it.

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mbodrov

24 Dec 2012, 05:10

BTW dirge, your thread title is misspelled, which may prevent it from showing up in search. It should be "komar", and if you wonder what it means, this is a komar:

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dirge

24 Dec 2012, 08:22

Sorry changed title, that image freeks me out.

komar007

25 Dec 2012, 15:40

mbodrov wrote:BTW dirge, your thread title is misspelled, which may prevent it from showing up in search. It should be "komar", and if you wonder what it means, this is a komar:

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They didn't know that on geekhack, so they treated me seriously. Now you've ruined it:D

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dirge

25 Dec 2012, 18:09

:) well my soldering skills are poor at the moment. Still to find the issue joint. Also when I type e or r, both e and r are typed. So press one character and you get "er" same for df and cv. So I think I may have bridged a diode...

komar007

25 Dec 2012, 19:03

More likely you've bridged pins 32 and 31 of atmega.
I did exactly that (but for other columns) making my second GH60...
So go on searching with the schematic, multimeter and a magnifying glass;) Maybe you've also shorted reset with something and that is causing the keyboard to stop working from time to time.

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dirge

10 Jan 2013, 18:40

huttala has kindly sent me a poker case as I didn't have one! moaer picxs to dfollow!

adfter I soert out ther beridfgerdf pins! :DF

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HzFaq

10 Jan 2013, 20:04

Have another beer whilst you're at it dude ;).

Can't wait for the pics.

bpiphany

11 Jan 2013, 14:41

No need to worry about any silly mosquitoes anymore https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OM6E3f2lT14 Perhaps we need to start a group buy though...

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huttala

11 Jan 2013, 22:00

dirge wrote:huttala has kindly sent me a poker case as I didn't have one! moaer picxs to dfollow!

adfter I soert out ther beridfgerdf pins! :DF
I demand pictures! :)

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dirge

12 Jan 2013, 09:12

Ill try today. :) got loads to do mind :)

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mashby

12 Jan 2013, 15:02

*giddy* with anticipation.

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dirge

13 Jan 2013, 11:01

Okay couldn't do yesterday due to family commitments but I should be about finished soon.

I'm just "experimenting" with "high heel" paints :evilgeek:

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