Wood 60% Case
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
Just thought I'd post this here at DT as well as GH. I'll try to keep this thread updated with info, but the GH thread will always be up to date, sorry DT
A quick link to the GH thread
So I started another bottom with butternut (It's a blonde species of walnut.) Anyways, after extensive testing the PCB and plate didn't fit in this new butternut bottom . Well, it was to be expected since I added around .015" extra material to the templates to account for the deflection of the lazer. Anyways after a TON of cleaning up with sand paper and a file, mounting, unmounting, remounting and routering of the bottom, everything is snug as a bug and working!
I did mess up the top of the case, having to add a recess for the DIP switch, sanding and chamfering the edges, but that will all be done tomorrow.
All put together
Bottom. I still need to redrill and counterbore the 4 corners
Back edge with the USB cutout. I slipped with the router and made that small cutout. It's not intended
USB cable fits! This is a MiMiC stainless steel cable. If also fits quite snugly.
Side profile with a Cherry WOB cap
Cap being depressed
The inside of the case is not sanded or anywhere close to being perfect. Hopefully I can get better at this, but it's hard to hold a 3+ lbs router and balance it on a 1.5" surface. All the tiny marks are from the router being pivoted in. Sanding should help, but it's not going to be prefect (I'm not a human CNC)
And the final height of the case. I think the typical height is around .75". I still need feet and I'm thinking a bar type would work since the round feet are proving hard to turn on the lathe
A quick link to the GH thread
So I started another bottom with butternut (It's a blonde species of walnut.) Anyways, after extensive testing the PCB and plate didn't fit in this new butternut bottom . Well, it was to be expected since I added around .015" extra material to the templates to account for the deflection of the lazer. Anyways after a TON of cleaning up with sand paper and a file, mounting, unmounting, remounting and routering of the bottom, everything is snug as a bug and working!
I did mess up the top of the case, having to add a recess for the DIP switch, sanding and chamfering the edges, but that will all be done tomorrow.
All put together
Bottom. I still need to redrill and counterbore the 4 corners
Back edge with the USB cutout. I slipped with the router and made that small cutout. It's not intended
USB cable fits! This is a MiMiC stainless steel cable. If also fits quite snugly.
Side profile with a Cherry WOB cap
Cap being depressed
The inside of the case is not sanded or anywhere close to being perfect. Hopefully I can get better at this, but it's hard to hold a 3+ lbs router and balance it on a 1.5" surface. All the tiny marks are from the router being pivoted in. Sanding should help, but it's not going to be prefect (I'm not a human CNC)
And the final height of the case. I think the typical height is around .75". I still need feet and I'm thinking a bar type would work since the round feet are proving hard to turn on the lathe
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
We should have "Like" buttons. Because I don't have anything to contribute but I think this is really cool.
What kind of tools did you use? Which parts did you have made?
I looked at some of the pictures on GH but a more verbose description would be great. I'm not that craft-savvy.
What kind of tools did you use? Which parts did you have made?
I looked at some of the pictures on GH but a more verbose description would be great. I'm not that craft-savvy.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
The wood case from this + the metal plate from this. Intriguing!
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
problem with wood is how the switches sound. but an intriguing design nonetheless
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I'm guessing a bit damped, or bit bassy. Wood transmits sound very differently to metal or plastic. But not necessarily in a bad way. Just look at musical instruments!
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
wood reverbs. you may like it, actually.
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
Other than a jointer and planer to get the wood flat, it's all done on a hand held router and a drill press. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. I'll try to word them for the non craft savvyIcarium wrote:We should have "Like" buttons. Because I don't have anything to contribute but I think this is really cool.
What kind of tools did you use? Which parts did you have made?
I looked at some of the pictures on GH but a more verbose description would be great. I'm not that craft-savvy.
I haven't typed on it yet since I'm not 100% done with itBimboBB wrote:How does the switches sound in a wood case?
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
Have you considered finger modeling?
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
prdlm2009 wrote:Have you considered finger modeling?
That's not my finger
dun dun dun.........
Anyways, I redid the top so that it was right and it works for the most part. I also made a bar style foot
I only wanted to put chamfers on the bottom of the foot, but I am a dumb and did all 4 corners. I think it still look really good.
What do you guys think?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
I like the stand! very nice project beast, as always!
- cookie
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: MX Master
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
The case itself is quite high, together with the stand this thing is so huge that it seems to lose benefits from the small form factor. I also dislike the angle it creates, it's way to big for my taste but I like my keyboards generally a little bit flatter.
The stand simlpy looks like it doesn't belong there, but thats only my opinion.
As I said, the rest is verry nice
The stand simlpy looks like it doesn't belong there, but thats only my opinion.
As I said, the rest is verry nice
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- Location: Wisconsin
- Main keyboard: WASD V1 w/ Browns
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Browns or Reds
- DT Pro Member: -
I was planning on moving the foot further back and maybe making the foot a bit thinner. I do agree that the angle is a bit highcookie wrote:The case itself is quite high, together with the stand this thing is so huge that it seems to lose benefits from the small form factor. I also dislike the angle it creates, it's way to big for my taste but I like my keyboards generally a little bit flatter.
The stand simlpy looks like it doesn't belong there, but thats only my opinion.
As I said, the rest is verry nice
I have thought about that, I just wanted to get a foot on this one. If I had to choose, it would be more circular/roundedBimboBB wrote:Maybe a triangle or a circle style stand might look better.
Whats the weight of yr wood-case? (with pcb & plate)
It's right around 500g with a few switches and that one cap on (basically with everything in the pictures above)