Very good haul (19 boards, 2 wheelwriters)

Myoth · 20 Oct 2018, 21:54

zrrion wrote: You just remove the caps and put it on? Not sure a video would be worth it. It didn't require any modification and I didn't remove the spring/hammer for the "|\" so its just chilling under the BAE. If I had needed to bolt mod the thing I would have removed it I guess but it does not effect operation or feel so far as I can tell.

I did have to trim one of the clips that hold the wire stab to the barrel plate slightly because otherwise the spacebar would not return, and I needed to add an insert for the Code key slider. Not a difficult modification.

huh okay, so I haven't remapped it and you just bruteforced it basically, I was thinking of a real mod where you'd change the springs and stuff under the keycaps. Oh well, I still think it looks kick ass

zrrion · 20 Oct 2018, 22:38

I got pretty lucky that the stuff is compatible otherwise I would have had to do a more intensive mod. SInce none of the rivits are broken I would have had to break them myself and that feels like somehting that would earn me 7 years of bad luck.

fohat wrote: I assume that simply replacing Alt with Code can be done from the top.

Yes. Adding the code key was super easy, and I plan to just use it as an Alt key after I remap it.

My question is the BAE stabilization. I thought I recalled that the AT style BAE had wires running both ways.

: IMG_20181020_162648.jpg (2.69 MiB) Viewed 3331 times

I've got 2 Wheelwriter 3s and neither of them have wire stabilizers on the BAE, just the rod kind. I don't know which Wheelwriters use what stabilizers so its possible that some use wire while some do not.

zrrion · 21 Oct 2018, 20:02

I'm cleaning the Magnetic Valve and the SKCC cream boards now, starting with the caps and holy cow are these baoards dirty. I doubt any of the creams will be good, even after cleaning, but the mag valves feel alright. The caps from both boards are super yellowed and I'll need to retrobrite them. Unsure what setup I'll use but I'm thinking I'll try a UV light + peroxide. The coolest thing about the SKCC caps is that, apart from the excellent sculpt, there are 3 relegendable caps that are doubleshot with a clear plastic to give them an LED window. I'm a sucker for double shot, relegendables, and LED windows so seeing these is like Christmas. One of them is missing the clear plastic top which is a huge shame though. Weirdly enough, there aren't any LEDs on this board so it didn't really need LED windows. Hopefully I can source some SKCC switches with LEDs to use with these caps.

Will update with pictures once they finish their time with the denture tabs and I scrub/rinse them.

fohat · 22 Oct 2018, 00:30

zrrion wrote:
The caps from both boards are super yellowed and I'll need to retrobrite them.

If any of them are PBT they can be dyed, but if they are yellowed they are almost surely ABS.

zrrion · 22 Oct 2018, 00:48

Yeah, these are all ABS. You can still dye ABS but it is a little more involved. I wouldn't want to dye these either way.

The fantastic doubleshot relegendables in all their glory!

Spoiler:

EDIT: Got some pictures of the magnetic valve board (I've taken to calling it The Truckfighter.) The Truckfighter's PCB is in very good shape and the palate is pretty clean for a board that was basically outside for 20 years. 2 of the switches are heavier than the others and I was hoping to get a look at the springs but they don't look like they come apart easily. They aren't too dirty though, despite the open bottom of the switch so I should be able to blast compressed air through them and be good to go.

ITW right on the PCB. Definitely not a hall effect board :p

And a date code of 8406, which I assume is 1984. If that's the case then it is still not the oldest board I own.

Album here.

Slom · 23 Oct 2018, 20:06

zrrion wrote: 2 of the switches are heavier than the others and I was hoping to get a look at the springs but they don't look like they come apart easily.

I think mr_a500 had opening these switches figured out:

photos-f62/cortron-licon-itw-keyboard-w ... ml#p197246

zrrion · 27 Oct 2018, 02:57

It is a shame most of the pics in that thread are dead so I don't really know what I've cleaned up the caps from cortron and it looks like the black plastic has been bleeched by the sun on quite a few caps. It looks pretty bad. Which is a huge shame.

The very dirty SKCC board was as dirty on the inside as it was on the outside. Water damage on the switches, but the switches are sealed with epoxy on the bottom so no water damage came from the bottom, but most every switch had moisture get in through the top and with no drainage is just stayed in the switches and destroyed them. One had a spring that had rusted away completely and all but 7 of them were dead. I was hoping that the board would be better internally but it was not to be. The caps are still good, apart from being yellowed, so I could potentially use them in a custom project aiming at replicating the layout or something, idk.

I will probably go back to the place I got all this stuff from again this Sunday so hopefully I will find some cool stuff then.

wadeak78 · 29 Oct 2018, 03:35

If you find the system that goes with the ITW Magnetic Valve Keyboard I'd love to buy it.

zrrion · 29 Oct 2018, 04:55

When I got it he did mention that he might have the system. I haven't been able to go back yet as the weather has delayed them from processing as much as they would like before they let people look through it again. He said to call back Wednesday and if I am able to go then I will ask about the system that goes with that board.

wadeak78 · 29 Oct 2018, 05:32

Awesome, let me know if you find it!