Before and after of the 12 USD IBM model F 122
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Hello again guys. I just wanted to show some pictures about my borderline stealed IBM model F 122.
This is what I got first:
And this is how is looking right now:
Customized numpad
Luckily I have spares of the model M spanish version of this keyboard, so it has not the originals, but pretty accurate keycaps.
Ufortunately isn't working (still). When I plug it with the Soarer's converter is plain dead, maybe is because of the modded cable I used. I really can't complain of this keyboard if I got it for that price.
This is what I got first:
And this is how is looking right now:
Customized numpad
Luckily I have spares of the model M spanish version of this keyboard, so it has not the originals, but pretty accurate keycaps.
Ufortunately isn't working (still). When I plug it with the Soarer's converter is plain dead, maybe is because of the modded cable I used. I really can't complain of this keyboard if I got it for that price.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Don't trust the colors if you don't have the original cable, and remember that the diagrams show the socket, not the plug.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah, I worked with various converters already. What I did is measure the the continuity of the pins inside the plugs to the cables themselves and weld the original PCB connector to my IBM XT cable, like simulating a normal AT connector. I will check if I messed the connections in somewhere or just put something wrong.
Edit: it's working I swapped GND and DATA. Don't work more than 3 hours in the same keyboard without a break.
Edit: it's working I swapped GND and DATA. Don't work more than 3 hours in the same keyboard without a break.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Nice job by the way!
I just bought a Battleship last night, but it will take two weeks to get to me. -.- I am way too impatient. I seriously hope the foam is in good condition. I'm not skilled enough to replace it without messing up the key feel.
I just bought a Battleship last night, but it will take two weeks to get to me. -.- I am way too impatient. I seriously hope the foam is in good condition. I'm not skilled enough to replace it without messing up the key feel.
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
Lookin' good!PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑20 Apr 2019, 21:05Hello again guys. I just wanted to show some pictures about my borderline stealed IBM model F 122.
This is what I got first:
And this is how is looking right now:
I like that bottom row.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Are you using one of Orihalcon's converters? Just trying to understand what you've done with the XT cable.PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑21 Apr 2019, 22:51A normal Soarer's converter. Yes, the keyboard speaks SET 3. If you have to replace the foam, mine is working with 1.5mm EVA.
And 1.5mm foam? Does it sound and feel firm? Honestly, I've tried foam that thin and the middle rows are always loose.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm using a homemade converter, but should be the same as the ones from Orihalcon. Because I don't have any DIN 45322 port I just joint the cable from my broken XT to the connector that goes directly inside the keyboard (they are not the same). At the end you will have something like this:
EVA is quite hard. If you go with a softer foam, then you will need more volume.
EVA is quite hard. If you go with a softer foam, then you will need more volume.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for that.PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑21 Apr 2019, 23:05I'm using a homemade converter, but should be the same as the ones from Orihalcon. Because I don't have any DIN 45322 port I just joint the cable from my broken XT to the connector that goes directly inside the keyboard (they are not the same). At the end you will have something like this:
EVA is quite hard. If you go with a softer foam, then you will need more volume.
I don't suppose you could upload a sound test with the foam inside? Could you also link the foam you used? Thanks! I understand if not.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Here it says 2mm but it isn't, I measured the sheet with a digital caliber. Sorry for the potato audio.
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
Dude, like... where are you in the video?
Oh, my, PlacaFromHell is a phantom!!! He is typing FROM HELL!!!!!!!
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Acoustics FROM HELL!!!!
PS: I'm everywhere and nowhere at the same time.
PS: I'm everywhere and nowhere at the same time.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks! Your keys sound a bit spongy like mine do when the middle row barrels are loose.PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 01:07Here it says 2mm but it isn't, I measured the sheet with a digital caliber. Sorry for the potato audio.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
The battleships have a little bit looser feel and sound compared to the XT and the AT. I preffer the feeling of my XT with the 3mm EVA but this bad guy is impossible to close with that thick piece of foam. Anyway isn't bad, the keyboard feels consistent and the barrels are well pressed.
Good luck!
Good luck!
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Interesting, thank you! Did you use a bar clamp? If so, was it absolutely necessary? I use lots of spring clamps on my XTs and simply hammer the backplate into place quite hard. I wonder if this introduces more curvature to the barrel frame, which might be why my foam replacements never feel good.PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 09:50The battleships have a little bit looser feel and sound compared to the XT and the AT. I preffer the feeling of my XT with the 3mm EVA but this bad guy is impossible to close with that thick piece of foam. Anyway isn't bad, the keyboard feels consistent and the barrels are well pressed.
Good luck!
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
It seems like you have some aversion to getting a bar clamp, they are simple and cheap. That is the only reasonable way to slide the plates back together. I do usually give it a tap with a hammer at the very end, but only after it is assembled properly.
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... AdsaMDNRAB
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... AdsaMDNRAB
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks Fohat. I do have some aversion, yes. Similar to bolts for a Model F bolt mod. I bought a cheap aluminium bar clamp from Amazon, and it was too wobbly and weak to do the job properly. I have been hesitant to buy one since. I should probably buy a more expensive one.fohat wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 15:23It seems like you have some aversion to getting a bar clamp, they are simple and cheap. That is the only reasonable way to slide the plates back together. I do usually give it a tap with a hammer at the very end, but only after it is assembled properly.
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... AdsaMDNRAB
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Some types have ball joints under the pressure pads, and those can be hard to keep stable under the thin edges of the plates. That is picture I sent. I have used that kind but it is tricky.
If you can find the kind that have flat pressure plates that don't swivel, that would probably be better.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
I can't actually view the link, since I am in the UK. I'm sure I will find something, thank you anyway.fohat wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 18:17Some types have ball joints under the pressure pads, and those can be hard to keep stable under the thin edges of the plates. That is picture I sent. I have used that kind but it is tricky.
If you can find the kind that have flat pressure plates that don't swivel, that would probably be better.
Let's hope I don't need to disassemble the F122 when it arrives. I'll just give the barrel frame a vacuum and scrub the keycaps and case. This one is really pretty! It has blue sublegends. I think it will look great with my set of coloured Wheelwriter caps. This is gonna be a long two weeks, heh... it's just been posted.
Speaking of F122s, I have always been wondering what your Models F sound like. I know you don't like the sound and try your best to attenuate it. It would be interesting to hear, especially with the art foam, bolt mod, flodd mod, case dampening, etc. If you ever get the time to record some typing sounds, I'd love to hear!
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- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Lol, that lovely legends. Wasn't that keyboard overpriced on Ebay? First time I used some C clamps that damaged the plates a bit, even with a thick piece of cloth. I ended using like 20 spring clamps with some pieces of rubber to avoid more damage. Then I hammered the upper plate with a hammer and a piece of wood. Anyway I had to pess the center tabs by hand, it was quite difficult but didn't took more than 2 attempts.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
It was quite expensive, yeah. I was willing to pay a lot for a Battleship, as it is my dream keyboard. I also never see them go for less than £200, and they're quite rare to begin with.PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 19:52Lol, that lovely legends. Wasn't that keyboard overpriced on Ebay? First time I used some C clamps that damaged the plates a bit, even with a thick piece of cloth. I ended using like 20 spring clamps with some pieces of rubber to avoid more damage. Then I hammered the upper plate with a hammer and a piece of wood. Anyway I had to pess the center tabs by hand, it was quite difficult but didn't took more than 2 attempts.
It's reassuring to know this thing can actually be assembled without a bar clamp.. haha. I hope it serves you well!
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Folded cardboard, the rough brown kind, is the best way to buffer yet hold firmly and avoid scarring.PlacaFromHell wrote: ↑22 Apr 2019, 19:52
with some pieces of rubber to avoid more damage.
but didn't took more than 2 attempts.
Don't be discouraged until at least half a dozen attempts have failed.
I have done dozens of these, and even for an experienced modder, 2-5 attempts is the norm.
PS - spending <10% of the price of the subject for a good tool that you will use for years is a good investment