deskthority

Check your PM

I ordered a blank "white" set from Unicomp on Friday and it came in on Wednesday. Included in the set are:

• 1u x 90
  1.25u x 2
  1.5u x 6
  1.75 stepped x 1
  2u x 2
  2.75 x 1
  double-high-1u x 2
  2.25 ANSI Shift (spring on left) x 1
  2.25 ANSI Enter (spring on right) x 1

Also included is one "gray" ISO Enter. Apparently ISO Enter is not available in white.

I dropped by a craft store on the way home. They didn't have any iDye products, instead ... "RIT DyeMore" for synthetic. They don't make "black", so i went with "graphite".

Your white set came with two enter keys? Was that a special request?

They didn't ask if i want ANSI or ISO or had a 101/102 or 104/105 - they included all (blank) caps needed to do all combinations.

They also do not have white 7x spacebars.

They do. Stock seems to go in and out on those.

Has the shape of the metal case been decided?

POTV wrote: Has the shape of the metal case been decided?

Not at all... That's not to say it's going to look any different than the traditional either though. No idea yet.


This month for work has been murder for me, but will return to steady state in November. If we have our PCB and controller changes developed and tested, we'll start our buy

Can't wait, must wait!

@lot_lizard, take all the time needed. A clone of the original SSK would be perfect

Over the weekend i dyed the white cap set black. I use a pasta pot similar to this to dye caps. It has a built-in strainer insert that sits about a half inch off the bottom of the pot. This way the caps never sit directly on the heat source. I can check the progress by lifting and lowering the strainer - which also kind of stirs the soup. I cook my caps on the outdoor grill because my wife will not let me use the stove for dying caps. We have discovered that dye-steam will color the ventilation hood and other things nearby. I used about half the bottle of RIT DyesMore.

Again, i had weird un-dyed streaks on some caps. I noticed that it was rare and minor on the 1u caps and seamed to be worse the larger the cap was - the worst being the 2.75u right shift. So i wiped them down with MEK thinking that will strip off anything that might be on the surface and dyed them again. And got the same results.

I had gotten near perfect results with a set of vintage ivory/pebble set, so thought maybe they need just a little abrasion. i got out a "Mr Clean Magic Eraser" (which is basically a 1000 grit sanding sponge) and gave all of the streaks a good scrub, then back in the pot and on the heat. About 2 hours later i had an "oh shit" moment when i remembered the caps.

After 2 hours on the grill, the pot was not completely dry, but evaporated below the level of the strainer (fully expose the caps). They had been cooking at a temperature far exceeding boiling dye - probably in the 200 C range. I pulled them out expecting a lump of PBT slag, but was surprised to find them in OK shape and completely dyed. I'm not sure if that is due to the "light abrasion" or "extreme heat".

Wow. I guess if I attempt this, I should start by scrubbing all visible surfaces with a magic eraser. I appreciate the tip about doing it outside on the grill too. That seems like a good precaution.

Just don't forget about it like i did.

I chose to do the first set black because i knew i could keep re-dying and it wouldn't lead to inconsistent color; "graphite" is light-gray to black; red is light pink to redish-black; blue is baby-blue to blueish-black; etc. I don't think yellow or orange go quite there, but you get the point.

I've got an idea!

We just need to publish final design and create some hype that there's market for model F.

Chinese will do everything else, and cheap!
..just make sure all critical materials are specified as such, or it will be a very, very crappy model F

DMA wrote: I've got an idea!

We just need to publish final design and create some hype that there's market for model F.

Chinese will do everything else, and cheap!
..just make sure all critical materials are specified as such, or it will be a very, very crappy model F jD

I actually like this idea a lot for phase 2 if we make the flat plates work well. The curved plates are the hardest part in all of this (getting the radius right). The metal from the presses naturally flatten once released from the press the more carbon in the steel (a good thing), and differently for the top plate and bottom plates because of the number of holes. We have all that dialed in locally after repeated attempts, and would hate to start that process over (why we will be done in 1-1.5 months once we commence).


The flat plates would be trivial... assuming I ever even open the box of reprints from Shapeways and head down the Cherry MX adapter path (or similar).

Sorry for all the delays lately guys. We are waiting on other items anyway, but I have been on keyboard vacay. My work merger will be announced in EARLY November, and I can finally rest. It's a bummer when suits had a good year, and feel the need to expel capital before YE. We will get to play again soon

As long as you're keeping the fire going, lizard, we can wait. This is my number one favorite keyboard project ever. I know that crunch time burnout too. I'm glad the end is in sight for you.

Flat plate model M or F , i do not doubt that it will work , but the idea just feels wrong.

Like the idea of a modern cherry switch without sand in it ( yeh i went there )

The flat plate idea is slowly growing on me. I like the idea of getting our favorite switch under the fingers of our brothers who prize alternate layouts and custom Cherry cap sets.

Techno Trousers wrote:
The flat plate idea is slowly growing on me.

I have been working with IBM M/F for so long that when I am doing something that forces me to worry with "rows" and "profiles" is makes me want to scream and pull my hair out.

Oh, I'm not giving up on curved plates. They'll always be my daily drivers. But I'll probably get one of the phase 2 boards for the novelty, and I really like the idea that capacitive buckling spring may live on and perhaps even get picked up for mass production by a savvy Chinese manufacturer. If it can happen for Hall Effect switches, surely it can for a superior switch feel.

I know you've been busy lot_lizard, but can you let me know the exact dimensions of the SSK plate that we'll be using? I want to compare to my current build, and potentially plan out another case mod.

Also, any update on the resin SSK cases, Phosphorglow?

drevyek wrote: but can you let me know the exact dimensions of the SSK plate that we'll be using? I want to compare to my current build, and potentially plan out another case mod.

Sorry drevyek... Missed following up to this. The width of the SSK assembly will be 378.5mm, not including the side "spacers". The side spacers are another 4.5mm on each side, adding 9mm total... but only at upper half of the assembly where it didn't interfere with the M shell. The y-axis is identical to the full-size (101-key) at 177mm before the radial bend (flat). Let me know if you need more. Another couple of days and I'll be back home (finally).

lot_lizard wrote:

drevyek wrote: but can you let me know the exact dimensions of the SSK plate that we'll be using? I want to compare to my current build, and potentially plan out another case mod.

Sorry drevyek... Missed following up to this. The width of the SSK assembly will be 378.5mm, not including the side "spacers". The side spacers are another 4.5mm on each side, adding 9mm total... but only at upper half of the assembly where it didn't interfere with the M shell. The y-axis is identical to the full-size (101-key) at 177mm before the radial bend (flat). Let me know if you need more. Another couple of days and I'll be back home (finally).

No worries- I'm not in a rush. I just wanted to hammer down dimensions. Thanks for getting back. Hope you're schedule cools sooner than not!

By assembly, do you mean the entire plate, with the width being 378.5mm? I had another look at the photos of the version you already have assembled, so I think I get what you mean by the spacers (the wings on the sides). The only other dimension I would need, is the distance between the securing holes at the top, where the pegs secure the whole assembly to the bottom case. That one is probably most crucial, as it is the difference in the assembly being straight and secure in the case, or a wobbly mess. As long as the other dimensions (y,z) are the same as the standard M, I should be A-OK.

Also, does anyone (in NA) have a spare M case lying around they'd be willing to sell? Unicomp is horrid with shipping to Canada, and I don't really want to go and try my hand again on eBay.

I have a spare M case! It's in amazing shape, too. I'm in Michigan, so shipping will probably be reasonable.

Sweet- I'll PM you in a few. I also need to get around to posting a full write-up on my last build...

Re: foam, I saw a note from Elrick on one of Ellipse's threads recommending he look into using sorbothane as the insulating foam. He said he had it under a heavy subwoofer for five years, and when he pulled it out it retained all of its elasticity. It might be worth considering if the question of the foam "stack" is still open for testing and tweaking.

So I have a bit of a random question.. I seen those Industrial cases that was posted a few pages back and people talking about the remade black badges to match them

Who exactly could I ask about getting one of those badges?
I'd love to have 1 or 2 for this project and one of my own.

Ir0n wrote: Who exactly could I ask about getting one of those badges?
I'd love to have 1 or 2 for this project and one of my own.

We will order several as part of this group buy, and you could certainly grab as many or few as you like (forget the pricing, but think 1-2 dollars a piece I believe). I am finally back in town, and will start giving our project some focus. I will send out some PM's today to see where we are at on our small changes to the electronics.


If the timeline looks promising... I wouldn't even mind the idea of kicking the group buy off with the assumption that testing the PCB updates would work itself out over the weeks that the group buy is open. I'll post what I receive back for status updates.

Created a thread in the marketplace to keep up with this side "key cap engraving" process. It will be considered a service at this point. Not sure if we should charge a fee or not, but if we do it will be minimal and proceeds will be thrown into a pool that funds other ventures later (Phosphorglow's SSK case research/production... etc).

other-f61/laser-engraving-key-caps-t14881.html

WCass has made some nice progress already, and will let him keep you updated over there when he feels comfortable.