Cooler Master Headset Survey
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I don't have a whole lot to add compared to what has already been said, I just wanted to add a +1 to what davkol and macmakkara have said.
I also really support what davkol mentioned about using more industry standard replaceable parts. I use the Beyerdynamic head cushions on my Grado's and HD650's and I love them. Replaceable ear cushions and not super crazy recessed or modified detachable cables is also great.
Detachable mic also.
I also really support what davkol mentioned about using more industry standard replaceable parts. I use the Beyerdynamic head cushions on my Grado's and HD650's and I love them. Replaceable ear cushions and not super crazy recessed or modified detachable cables is also great.
Detachable mic also.
- Mal-2
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
- Main keyboard: Cherry G86-61400
- Main mouse: Generic 6-button "gaming mouse"
- Favorite switch: Probably buckling spring, but love them Blues too
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Just don't make the jack to which the detachable cable attaches a weak point that fails even sooner than a permanent cable would. Ideally the connection would be hidden behind a little rubber stopper or something, so that if it gets yanked, a non-breakable part goes flying and takes most of the energy with it.pyrelink wrote: I don't have a whole lot to add compared to what has already been said, I just wanted to add a +1 to what davkol and macmakkara have said.
I also really support what davkol mentioned about using more industry standard replaceable parts. I use the Beyerdynamic head cushions on my Grado's and HD650's and I love them. Replaceable ear cushions and not super crazy recessed or modified detachable cables is also great.
Detachable mic also.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Can't say I'm a fan of those wobbly little rubber port covers that so much cheap gear comes with. But I agree there's a need to be careful with strain relief in yank-happy hardware like headphones. What do the high end guys do already?
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Have replaceable cables, also the strain relief needs to be a bit longer and go over the cable a bit. Look at the old apple 30 pin connectors that cable with early iPods vs the newer ones , never seen an old one fail at the end of the cable but had multiple ones of the newer type fail due to crappy strain relief.
This is the older 30 pin

and this is the new one

You see what happens ! The strain relief is not long enough and the cable can come out of it and bend and rip as it does not stop you bending it round too much
The older one on the other hand is not only longer and stiffer ( he he) but its made of much better quality sleeving. I have a eBay special for my iPad when it next to my bed as its nice and long but when i travel i always use the old style 30 pin its never seen be wrong.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Mal-2 wrote:
Just don't make the jack to which the detachable cable attaches a weak point that fails even sooner than a permanent cable would. Ideally the connection would be hidden behind a little rubber stopper or something, so that if it gets yanked, a non-breakable part goes flying and takes most of the energy with it.
easy way to do that is not have the connector on a pcb and have it connected to a part that has a weak point on it . This will act as a sacrificial part, if it breaks you replace the connector and the plate its mounted on in one go.
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
At its core I feel like just having a detachable cable with the connector slightly separated from the main driver wires, would be solution enough. Anything too complex, especially involving a "weak point" that could fail over time with regular use, or could break more easily with non damaging force, would just cause more problems, and overall more RMAs for coolermaster. In general having a removable cable decreases the likely-hood of damage to the unit as the cable can just pull out if caught on something.
Unless CM wanted to spend all of their R&D budget on developing a MagSafe like headphone connector... That would be pretty cool.
Also I agree on strain relief. Bolster that cable up on both ends but please please please make sure that the connector to be plugged into your audio source is not so darn chunky or weirdly shaped that I can't plug it into a mobile device that has a case on it, or fit it into my on board audio port with something plugged in next to it. I hate that so much.
Unless CM wanted to spend all of their R&D budget on developing a MagSafe like headphone connector... That would be pretty cool.
Also I agree on strain relief. Bolster that cable up on both ends but please please please make sure that the connector to be plugged into your audio source is not so darn chunky or weirdly shaped that I can't plug it into a mobile device that has a case on it, or fit it into my on board audio port with something plugged in next to it. I hate that so much.
- Compgeke
- Location: Fairfield, California, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M 1391401
- Main mouse: Coolermaster Recon
- Favorite switch: IBM Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0040
I think something like the cable going into a seperate compartment to lock it in place, only the wire coming out of the compartment (not connector) would work well enough and be cheap enough to manufacture.
Drawing example:

Of course have a cover over the cable with a gap on the bottom enough to let the wire through and while it won't protect cable fully you won't be breaking off or straining the connector very easily unless you're pulling hard.
Drawing example:

Of course have a cover over the cable with a gap on the bottom enough to let the wire through and while it won't protect cable fully you won't be breaking off or straining the connector very easily unless you're pulling hard.
- Spikebolt
- √(4) != -2
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: HHKB2 Pro
- Main mouse: Roccat Kone Xtd
- Favorite switch: Topre (so far)
- DT Pro Member: -
Is this closed already? 
Well I'll just leave my feedback here, I guess.
I'm assuming the target audience for this device are gamers. Even though I play some games I don't think I fit in the regular gamer profile. I don't like flashy stuff, I don't like lights, excessive branding or bulky headphones.
I currently use Philips Fidelio X1 and they are absolutely perfect for me because:
- It has a detachable cable. This means I can replace the cable and use a VModa Boompro microphone at home for Skype and shizzles.
- Over ear headphones. These are by far the most comfortable thing for me.
- I can wear it outside and people won't think I'm an asshole. This is of course subjective but when I wear my headphones outside people understand that I like quality sound, I'm not trying to show off my cool gaming gear.
- Does not require an amplifier. Most gamers don't own an amplifier and it's always a pain when you are on the move.
- 3.5mm jack. 3.5mm jack ensures compatibility with most devices: pc, mac,, smartphones, mp3 layers, you name it. This is important to me.
I've tried several "gaming" headsets such as the Razer (all of them), Plantronics, Steelseries V2. There's a reason I don't own any of them: they all suck. They are all terrible. All of them. Terrible. If you think their sound is good you haven't tried good and you're missing out.
The microphones isn't the most important thing, but if I could not sound like I'm inside a submarine that'd be great.
If you can shift the meta from mega-boom-bass to sound quality you will own the market because you will have the only headset worth buying.

Well I'll just leave my feedback here, I guess.
I'm assuming the target audience for this device are gamers. Even though I play some games I don't think I fit in the regular gamer profile. I don't like flashy stuff, I don't like lights, excessive branding or bulky headphones.
I currently use Philips Fidelio X1 and they are absolutely perfect for me because:
- It has a detachable cable. This means I can replace the cable and use a VModa Boompro microphone at home for Skype and shizzles.
- Over ear headphones. These are by far the most comfortable thing for me.
- I can wear it outside and people won't think I'm an asshole. This is of course subjective but when I wear my headphones outside people understand that I like quality sound, I'm not trying to show off my cool gaming gear.
- Does not require an amplifier. Most gamers don't own an amplifier and it's always a pain when you are on the move.
- 3.5mm jack. 3.5mm jack ensures compatibility with most devices: pc, mac,, smartphones, mp3 layers, you name it. This is important to me.
I've tried several "gaming" headsets such as the Razer (all of them), Plantronics, Steelseries V2. There's a reason I don't own any of them: they all suck. They are all terrible. All of them. Terrible. If you think their sound is good you haven't tried good and you're missing out.
The microphones isn't the most important thing, but if I could not sound like I'm inside a submarine that'd be great.
If you can shift the meta from mega-boom-bass to sound quality you will own the market because you will have the only headset worth buying.