Fixing Bottom Row Keys on V60 MTS PCB

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Mattr567

21 Jan 2016, 08:10

Current situation and explanation (a somewhat long one)

I ripped out some through holes on my V60 MTS while putting in SKCL Green Alps switches, and have repaired most of them by hand wiring, following this thread keyboards-f2/fixing-lifted-pads-kbp-v60 ... ml#p268838

It was pretty easy following these pictures of the PCB:
Image
Image

Unlike itzmeluigi I had to hand wire both pins on the switches that didnt work. For that I had to look mainly at the front picture of the PCB to see where to wire the pin that didnt go to the SMT diode.

On some of these the trace didn't seem to go anywhere, it would just stop (see the ,< key for a ex), to solve the problem I just had to do some trial and error to see which pin to wire to.

With the bottom row things are different however, likey b/c of the ability to change key function, almost all of the pin traces stop (like the ,< key) and I have unable to find the correct pin to wire to, if there is one or not.

Currently both Win keys and the "App" key dont work. I was able to fix one of the Alt keys by wiring it to the other Alt that is working, and it works like a charm. I could have done that with the Win keys if one was working...

For the App key, I have the DIP switches 5 and 6 on which make it a Control key, but for some reason wiring it to either of the Control keys doesn't work.

So here I am, unable to find a way to wire the Win or App keys. And this is why I need your help!
Otherwise the last resort would be to get a repair kit and repair the actual through hole rather than wiring.

User avatar
Blaise170
ALPS キーボード

24 Jan 2016, 16:11

Sorry I can't offer specific help but I had to do the same thing with mine when putting in Blues. The through holes are really easy to remove.

I know on mine, I wired only one lead to the switch above it, and Jixr did the same thing on some when I have it to him for help.

User avatar
Mattr567

25 Jan 2016, 03:23

Blaise170 wrote: Sorry I can't offer specific help but I had to do the same thing with mine when putting in Blues. The through holes are really easy to remove.

I know on mine, I wired only one lead to the switch above it, and Jixr did the same thing on some when I have it to him for help.
I did a similar thing for the other keys, but the bottom row doesn't seem to have a switch above it to wire to. If look at the front of the PCB at the bottom row, the traces don't connect anywhere visible :(

Matt_

25 Jan 2016, 16:49

Mattr567 wrote: With the bottom row things are different however, likey b/c of the ability to change key function, almost all of the pin traces stop (like the ,< key) and I have unable to find the correct pin to wire to, if there is one or not.
I may be wrong but I don't think that this comes into play here. The DIP switch likely changes the function of the switch in the controller, but it won't change the way the switch connects to the matrix.

I had a look at your pictures but it's a bit hard to follow traces since they run on both sides of the PCB and are connected by vias (small through-hole pads) — they seem to not connect anywhere on one side, but they are actually connected to a trace on the other side through a via hidden under the red soldermask.

Do you have a multimeter to check continuity? That would allow you to find where current flows much more easily.

User avatar
Mattr567

26 Jan 2016, 03:53

Matt_ wrote:
Mattr567 wrote: With the bottom row things are different however, likey b/c of the ability to change key function, almost all of the pin traces stop (like the ,< key) and I have unable to find the correct pin to wire to, if there is one or not.
I may be wrong but I don't think that this comes into play here. The DIP switch likely changes the function of the switch in the controller, but it won't change the way the switch connects to the matrix.

I had a look at your pictures but it's a bit hard to follow traces since they run on both sides of the PCB and are connected by vias (small through-hole pads) — they seem to not connect anywhere on one side, but they are actually connected to a trace on the other side through a via hidden under the red soldermask.

Do you have a multimeter to check continuity? That would allow you to find where current flows much more easily.
I see. So the vias connections I need to make are buried for the bottom keys. Hmm, now how to wire them since they aren't open like the other keys. A hell of a lot of scraping? Will check the continuity with a multimeter when I get a chance.

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