Northgate Omnikey 101 SKCM White Alps

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Hypersphere

07 Aug 2016, 16:22

Northgate Omnikey 101 SKCM White Alps

Thanks to exhortations from Fohat, I picked up this gem from eBay for about 60 USD shipped. It arrived expertly packed and in excellent working condition. It was also reasonably clean for an eBay purchase. Furthermore, this particular Northgate model had the standard ANSI layout with a horizontal Enter key rather than a flipped L design.
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Although I began my mechanical keyboard journey with full-size keyboards (IBM XT and IBM Model M), shortly after seriously entering enthusiast territory my favorite form factors became TKL and 60%. After acclimating to these compact versions, I thought I would never go back to a full-size keyboard, but as soon as I typed on the Omnikey 101, I decided to clean it up and add it to my active rotation.
Spoiler:
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One of the first things I noticed about the Omnikey 101 was its substantial weight -- 4 lbs 12 oz (about 2.15 kg). It also felt extremely solid with no flex or creaking. The heft and solidity derive from a steel plate fastened with four screws and a steel back on the case held to the thick plastic top by six screws. The construction makes the Omnikey 101 feel even sturdier than an IBM Model M. Unlike the Model M, the Northgate is not held together with plastic rivets that degrade and break over time. Apparently, the Omnikey 101 was introduced in 1991, the same year that IBM turned over production of the Model M to Lexmark.

The keycaps are attractive ABS doubleshots with touches of color, such as red legends on the Esc and Ctrl keys.
Spoiler:
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Typing on the Omnikey 101 is a pleasure. The switches are SKCM white Alps, and on this board they feel extremely smooth. I find the switch weight ideal for me -- neither too heavy nor too light. Likewise, the click is audible without being overly noisy, and the tactility provides reassuring feedback without being overbearing. Indeed, I find these white Alps just about as satisfying as the blue Alps on my Leading Edge DC-2014. As others have noted, the perceived (and/or actual) quality of white Alps seems to vary quite a lot, depending upon manufacturing parameters and how clean the switches are.

On the top left of the keyboard there is a little door with the Northgate logo that hides a bank of 8 DIP switches and a red selector switch. These enable a number of features, including swapping CapsLock and Ctrl (along with Alt and Ctrl on the bottom row), switching the entire keyboard to a Dvorak layout, and changing the repeat rate.
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When I started the clean the board, I was initially disappointed when it seemed that the logo was slightly damaged. It turned out that it still had the thin protective film attached. I peeled off the film revealing a pristine logo that looked like it was made just yesterday. Likewise, the label on the bottom of the board was in perfect condition.
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I happen to like detachable cables, and the Omni has a DIN6 female cable connector on the back right-hand side. The supplied cable terminates with a male AT-type connector. I attached this to an active "Blue Cube" USB adapter, plugged it into the USB hub to my computer, and the keyboard was up and running. All the keys registered and the three lock lights worked. It would be quite easy to modify this board to a flush-mount USB connector either with or without a Soarer's converter. Notice also the flip-out legs to elevate the board to what I consider a comfortable typing height. Behind the feet are tabs that can be used for cable management.
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Another treat came when I discovered that the keyboard worked with my Hasu USB-USB converter. I suppose I should not have been surprised by this, given that the keyboard worked with an active AT to USB converter. However, I had set up the Hasu converter to work with standard-layout TKL and 60% keyboards, and I would need to remap it slightly to account for the Winkeyless layout of the Omnikey 101. For now, to get my preferred HHKB layout, I will be using keyboard remapping software.

Overall, I highly recommend the Northgate Omnikey 101 for those who like tactile/clicky Alps switches in a full-size keyboard with a standard ANSI layout.
Last edited by Hypersphere on 07 Aug 2016, 16:43, edited 1 time in total.

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

07 Aug 2016, 16:24

Impressive, the Northgate Omnikey 101 is still on my wanted list. Great pictures.

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Hypersphere

07 Aug 2016, 16:32

Thanks, seebart! Initially I had the pics displayed without putting them behind spoilers. Then I realized that the DT Wiki has some of the same views of this keyboard, so I decided not to be overly redundant and take up less space on the web page.

You can get cleaned and refurbished Northgate, Wang, and other keyboards from the following site:

http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/

However, I suppose shipping and duty costs to locations in Europe would make these rather expensive.

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

07 Aug 2016, 17:09

Hypersphere wrote: Thanks, seebart! Initially I had the pics displayed without putting them behind spoilers. Then I realized that the DT Wiki has some of the same views of this keyboard, so I decided not to be overly redundant and take up less space on the web page.
I don't mind the spoilers, with a post like this you do not need to worry about your pics being redundant in any sense IMO.
Hypersphere wrote: You can get cleaned and refurbished Northgate, Wang, and other keyboards from the following site:

http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/

However, I suppose shipping and duty costs to locations in Europe would make these rather expensive.
I know, thanks. northgate-keyboard-repair.com/ may be an option for me because these Northgate Omnikey 101's do not show up here often at all. I've been looking for one for ages.

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fohat
Elder Messenger

07 Aug 2016, 17:11

Cabling is very clean and easy if you don't want the extra pieces and/or a coiled cable.

For a while I told people that a straight male-male mini-DIN6 cable would not work as a replacement for the original cable and an AT-to-PS/2 adapter, but it turned out that I had a bad cable. With a working cable, you can go straight from the PS/2 socket on the keyboard to the computer.

If you want a permanent cable, in post #157 of this thread
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49 ... msg1262678
I show the pinout.

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Hypersphere

07 Aug 2016, 17:21

@Fohat: Thanks for the cabling tips (and for your alert post about the eBay listing)! I may go with the straight DIN6 m/m cable (coiled cables like the one that comes with the Omnikey 101 drive me crazy), but I guess I will still need an active PS/2 to USB adapter such as the Blue Cube, because I use a USB hub for my keyboard and mouse connections to my computers. Thanks also for the pinout information. I might eventually try wiring up an internal USB converter and replacing the DIN6 connector on the case with a flush-mount USB connector. At the moment, I have flush-mount USB-B and micro-USB.

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fohat
Elder Messenger

07 Aug 2016, 17:51

The cheap-o Chinese "Y" PS/2-to-USB adapters have always worked fine with my Northgates, but an internal Teensy might be the way to go since PS/2 is not going to last much farther into the future.

I doubt that I have a PS/2 mouse any more. Except for keyboards, almost every other accessory and peripheral has continued to improve with time.

PS - I hate coiled cables too

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Chyros

07 Aug 2016, 19:40

fohat wrote: PS - I hate coiled cables too
Why?! Oo

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fohat
Elder Messenger

07 Aug 2016, 20:08

Chyros wrote:
fohat wrote:
I hate coiled cables too
Why?
The same reason that I love ANSI Enter, of course - to irritate you!

Seriously, though, coiled cables are ugly, bulky, and usually heavy. And nasty and hard to clean when they get old.

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Hypersphere

07 Aug 2016, 20:14

Fohat, from your description, coiled cables sound like a metaphor for the human condition!

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

07 Aug 2016, 20:51

Coiled cables are a pain to clean I know about that. I don't mind them though. They are a part of vintage keyboards.

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scottc

07 Aug 2016, 21:16

I enjoy both their utility and aesthetics. I've even got shorter coiled mini and micro USB cables for my modern custom keyboards. When I'm not using them, they're not strewn across my desk like other cables; they naturally retract and sit close to the USB hub in my monitor which is pretty nice.

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Chyros

07 Aug 2016, 22:33

fohat wrote:
Chyros wrote:
fohat wrote:
I hate coiled cables too
Why?
The same reason that I love ANSI Enter, of course - to irritate you!

Seriously, though, coiled cables are ugly, bulky, and usually heavy. And nasty and hard to clean when they get old.
Hahaha, fair enough xD . They tend to be pretty tough though, and of course they stretch, which is awesome.

It's good though that people don't like what I like. Means more stuff for me :p .

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

07 Aug 2016, 22:43

A lot of people here like what you like. :evilgeek:

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Chyros

07 Aug 2016, 22:55

seebart wrote: A lot of people here like what you like. :evilgeek:
Goddammit start liking other stuff all of you, I want all these things for myself! :evilgeek:

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

07 Aug 2016, 22:59

Chyros wrote:
seebart wrote: A lot of people here like what you like. :evilgeek:
Goddammit start liking other stuff all of you, I want all these things for myself! :evilgeek:
You know I like what you like. And I got...
Spoiler:
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:evilgeek: (at least sometimes) :oops:

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Hypersphere

07 Aug 2016, 23:12

Here is the Omnikey 101 with Dolch caps:
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I am not sure I like it. I thought that putting darker caps on the board would make the case look less yellow, but it seems to have had the opposite effect. Someone recently posted a pic of a black Dell 101 with Dolch, and that looked much better to me.

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

07 Aug 2016, 23:18

Ugh...nice. :shock: It's not often I like dark caps on a light case.

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emdude
Model M Apologist

07 Aug 2016, 23:21

Yeah, looks great! :D

I think that the case looking slightly yellow in your photo is actually quite fitting for the colorway.

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Hypersphere

07 Aug 2016, 23:29

Thanks, emdude! This makes me feel better. With these tight-fitting Alps caps, I didn't want to risk damaging the switches by changing the caps again.

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fohat
Elder Messenger

07 Aug 2016, 23:48

That looks great!

That is exactly why I bought the Tai Ho set but realized that it was not going to have a proper bottom row.

I read how you made the space bar work, maybe I will try it depending on what wires I have.

Where did the blank black Controls and Alts come from? And is that the Tai Ho CapsLock?

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Hypersphere

08 Aug 2016, 00:46

@fohat: Thanks for the additional vote of confidence. I am typing on the Omni 101 with Dolch-esque now.

I am not sure if Matias is still willing to sell individual keycaps, but they are definitely selling sets, both printed and blank. You can also buy a set of stabilizer inserts and wires from Matias.

https://matias.store/products/keycap-set-black-blank

The blank black1.5x mods for the bottom row (Ctrl and Alt) came from Matias. They have both 1.25x and 1.50x. They also have blank white.

I did a similar thing with my custom brown Alps board, which has a 7.0x spacebar and 1.5x Ctrl/Alt keys.

Yes, the CapsLock was in the Tai-Hao Alps-mount Dolch set that I bought. I got one set from MK.com and another through Massdrop, but I think they are the same sets.

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Hypersphere

26 Aug 2016, 21:01

Update: After getting some excellent advice on vinyl dye and plastic coatings, I went with Fohat's suggestion to use Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric coating to change the color of the Omnikey case. I bought both flat black and burgundy, and I decided to break from my usual black backgrounds and go with the burgundy. Here are some shots of the finished product with the Tai-Hao Dolch set along with black mods and spacebar from Matias:
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Dupli-color on plastic is much easier than, say, Rustoleum on metal. When I painted my XT barrel plate with Rustoleum satin black, I did exhaustive surface preparation, then applied several coats, letting the paint set overnight, and lightly sanding between each coat.

With Dupli-color on the plastic case, I simply cleaned the case thoroughly, allowed it to dry overnight, masked the LED panel with masking tape, applied several coats waiting just a few minutes between coats, and let it dry about an hour before putting the keyboard back together. Before cleaning the case, I removed the DIP switch door with the Northgate logo and cleaned it separately. After painting, I applied a drop of SuperLube oil to the hinges and snapped the door back into place.

I am fairly pleased with the result.
Last edited by Hypersphere on 26 Aug 2016, 21:09, edited 1 time in total.

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emdude
Model M Apologist

26 Aug 2016, 21:05

Wow, fantastic job, Hypersphere. The finish looks excellent. :)

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XMIT
[ XMIT ]

26 Aug 2016, 21:08

I think I may have given you some of this advice over PM. Great work! See, vinyl dye isn't /that/ bad. ;-)

Did you look into removing the LED panel at all? At least on the IBM Model M and the Cherry G80 they are easy enough to pull using a hair dryer to soften the glue.

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Hypersphere

26 Aug 2016, 21:23

XMIT wrote: I think I may have given you some of this advice over PM. Great work! See, vinyl dye isn't /that/ bad. ;-)

Did you look into removing the LED panel at all? At least on the IBM Model M and the Cherry G80 they are easy enough to pull using a hair dryer to soften the glue.
My apologies, XMIT! I had a feeling that I had omitted someone. Yes, indeed, you also gave me some excellent advice, and I combined yours with Fohat's in deciding how to do this project. No, I did not try to remove the LED panel. It was so seamlessly bonded to the case, it seemed like an integral part of it, and I did not want to risk damaging the panel and/or the case by trying to remove it.

I also did not paint the metal bottom of the case. It was actually in good shape and it is mostly hidden from view by the top case.

Fohat also kindly sent me an extra Omnikey 101 case top as a back-up in the event of disaster. I painted it flat black, which also looks fine, but after seeing the burgundy, I rather like its more customized pizzazz.

Thanks again, XMIT and Fohat! When you have the support of others in the Forum for various projects, it really builds a great sense of community.

seaworthy

26 Aug 2016, 22:46

Your transformation of the Omnikey looks fantastic. Love the color combination with the Dolch caps.

Just a note from my experience with using the Dupli Color dye. The dye/paint goes on better than most spray paints and it seems to offer a more even coat. But in my experience (mostly with AEKs), the finish is just as susceptible to a scratch. Unfortunately, the “dye” doesn’t penetrate the material anywhere near as well as dying keycaps does (maybe its from the absences of a heat catalyst present in dying caps).

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ohaimark
Kingpin

26 Aug 2016, 23:01

I'd prefer to see a white on black doubleshot set on it, frankly. The Dolch doesn't do it for me.

I do, however, like the aggressive red of the case. It makes me think of luxury car interiors.

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Hypersphere

27 Aug 2016, 00:46

@seaworthy: Thanks. I had initially thought that the Dupli-Color product was a "vinyl dye". Fohat pointed out that as the subtitle in the name indicates, it is a flexible coating rather than a dye. I also received confirmation of this from the company. I have not thoroughly researched other products, such as those made by VHT and SEM, but there are posts from customrs indicating that although these may be marketed as "vinyl dyes" they might also be paints. However, these coatings do seem to bond well to plastic, and they do not tend to "run" like some other paints.

@ohaimark: I am not completely taken by the Dolch set, either, although it is growing on me. I certainly like it better with the burgundy red background than with the yellowed tan color of the aged stock case. My usual scheme for Alps caps is off-white dye-sub PBT alphas from IBM 5140 boards and blank black ABS mods and spacebar from Matias. I thought I would deviate from that plan for a change. I do have a white on black doubleshot set that I might try.

This shade of red does suggest a kind of opulence: luxury sedan, Victorian dining room, or just "Early American Cathouse". ;)

In any event, I like it. Goes with the burgundy Leap chair in my office

On a functional note, today I also cleaned up another Omnikey 101 and put it into a black case. This one was very dirty, but after washing the caps I found that they had not yellowed -- perhaps the dirt served as a UV shield! Unfortunately, the switches are not as light and smooth as those in the Omnikey with the burgundy case. As Chyros has often said, condition is everything when it comes to Alps switches!

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fohat
Elder Messenger

27 Aug 2016, 04:44

Hypersphere wrote:
I am not completely taken by the Dolch set, either, although it is growing on me. I certainly like it better with the burgundy red background than with the yellowed tan color of the aged stock case.
I am surprised that you painted both cases.

The burgundy/Dolch looks pretty sturdy, and the yellowed LED panel actually looks like it fits right in with the color scheme.

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