Zenith Z-150
- paecific.jr
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 122
- Main mouse: Logitech Performance MX
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
I splurged on another keyboard.
But, I have less than some people on here and on Geekhack so I digress.
I bought a Zenith Z-150. I mostly wanted a vintage gaming keyboard with some smooth linear Alps. I got sucked into buying it because it was sold for a fair price on eBay ($50). So the ultimate question, how do I get it to work without cutting the cable? I forgot to do my research and from what I hear orihalcon's converter doesn't work. Does it? Do I have to order a Teensy? How do I move forward?
Also, it may be a week before I actually set out to hook it up, I have finals next week.
Thanks for your help everyone!
But, I have less than some people on here and on Geekhack so I digress.
I bought a Zenith Z-150. I mostly wanted a vintage gaming keyboard with some smooth linear Alps. I got sucked into buying it because it was sold for a fair price on eBay ($50). So the ultimate question, how do I get it to work without cutting the cable? I forgot to do my research and from what I hear orihalcon's converter doesn't work. Does it? Do I have to order a Teensy? How do I move forward?
Also, it may be a week before I actually set out to hook it up, I have finals next week.
Thanks for your help everyone!
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey Pacific junior,
It's a nice board with the adorable linear Green Alps, mine is missing a few keys... :\
For Z-150, those with White label is the AT version, those with black label is the XT version.
Both will work with 'Soarer's converter" sold at about $40.
The AT version is simpler - you can use a cheap AT to PS/2 converter and then a cheap PS/2 to USB converter.
HTH.
It's a nice board with the adorable linear Green Alps, mine is missing a few keys... :\
For Z-150, those with White label is the AT version, those with black label is the XT version.
Both will work with 'Soarer's converter" sold at about $40.
The AT version is simpler - you can use a cheap AT to PS/2 converter and then a cheap PS/2 to USB converter.
HTH.
- paecific.jr
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 122
- Main mouse: Logitech Performance MX
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
I have yellows. My is a black label. Do you have a configuration I could use for Soarer's converter?
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
I don't have this AT/XT to USB converter, but it sounds like it works like magic according to this thread:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64670.0
Not cheap, and many wonder how it is put together:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/272197728524?_tr ... EBIDX%3AIT
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64670.0
Not cheap, and many wonder how it is put together:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/272197728524?_tr ... EBIDX%3AIT
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Some XT keyboards don't work with a 4-pin Soarer's converter like Orihalcon's as they use the fifth pin as a reset line. Those keyboards will not work without this line. Orihalcon does sell conversion kits for those keyboards iirc. I can't remember for sure but I think the Z-150 was one of those.
- Menuhin
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB400BN lubed, has Hasu Bt Controller
- Main mouse: How to make scroll ring of Expert Mouse smoother?
- Favorite switch: Gateron ink lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
So it sounds like Z-150 won't work so easily with Orihalcon's converter. I actually haven't read any report of Z-150 (XT/AT) working with a converter except with that little black box.
- paecific.jr
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 122
- Main mouse: Logitech Performance MX
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Could you help me find some more info on this?Chyros wrote:Some XT keyboards don't work with a 4-pin Soarer's converter like Orihalcon's as they use the fifth pin as a reset line. Those keyboards will not work without this line. Orihalcon does sell conversion kits for those keyboards iirc. I can't remember for sure but I think the Z-150 was one of those.
Also huge fan of your videos!
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
I have a Zenith Z-150 (100-1886) Black Label with SKCL Yellow Alps. It works with an Orihalcon-Soarer converter. I bought an internal converter from Orihalcon -- this one has the 5th wire for the reset. His converters have a micro-USB connector on the mini circuit board.
I plug this into a micro-USB cable with a panel-mount micro-USB connector. The connectors I have been using are from DataPro for $9.95:
http://www.datapro.net/products/usb-mic ... e-m-f.html
But recently, Adafruit started carrying a more compact version for only $4.95:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/937
There is plenty of room inside the Zenith Z-150 case for the converter and panel-mount micro-USB cable with connector. You just need to drill three holes in the back of the case for mounting the connector. It works quite nicely.
Adafruit also carries a mini-USB connector, so if you preferred to have a mini-USB connector, you could use a small mini-to-micro adapter for the Orihalcon-Soarer converter. You can find such adapters on Amazon and eBay.
I plug this into a micro-USB cable with a panel-mount micro-USB connector. The connectors I have been using are from DataPro for $9.95:
http://www.datapro.net/products/usb-mic ... e-m-f.html
But recently, Adafruit started carrying a more compact version for only $4.95:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/937
There is plenty of room inside the Zenith Z-150 case for the converter and panel-mount micro-USB cable with connector. You just need to drill three holes in the back of the case for mounting the connector. It works quite nicely.
Adafruit also carries a mini-USB connector, so if you preferred to have a mini-USB connector, you could use a small mini-to-micro adapter for the Orihalcon-Soarer converter. You can find such adapters on Amazon and eBay.
- paecific.jr
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 122
- Main mouse: Logitech Performance MX
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for that Hypersphere. I have a teensy right now, I'm just lacking in time to put it together.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Ah, yes, that thing. I messaged Orihalcon about it twice, but he never replied. Personally, I'd also prefer to mod it plugside rather than PCB-side as the original cable is amazing.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@Chyros: Orihalcon is always very busy with work and various projects. He usually responds eventually, perhaps after a reminder.
I prefer my keyboards with detachable cables. I frequently swap out keyboards at my workstations, and I store my keyboards in boxes. Overall, things are much neater without attached cables.
Regarding the Z-150 (100-1886), How can you determine (such as from a seller's listing) if it has dye-sub PBT vs. doubleshot keycaps without seeing the underside of the keycaps? Is there any correlation with the S/N or are there other numbers or outward signs? If a seller has not already pulled a cap, I am reluctant to ask him to do so -- the last time I made such a request about an Alps-switch keyboard, , the seller broke the cap with the cap stem still embedded in the slider.
I prefer my keyboards with detachable cables. I frequently swap out keyboards at my workstations, and I store my keyboards in boxes. Overall, things are much neater without attached cables.
Regarding the Z-150 (100-1886), How can you determine (such as from a seller's listing) if it has dye-sub PBT vs. doubleshot keycaps without seeing the underside of the keycaps? Is there any correlation with the S/N or are there other numbers or outward signs? If a seller has not already pulled a cap, I am reluctant to ask him to do so -- the last time I made such a request about an Alps-switch keyboard, , the seller broke the cap with the cap stem still embedded in the slider.