deskthority

also known as adventures of an ambisinistrous

ohaimark wrote: ... getting the keyboard apart to the point where each discrete switch unit is laying on the table shouldn't be an issue for the mechanically inclined.

Lets see how mechanically inclined I am. Hello little Beamspring, smile as if it's the last day of your life. It might actually be
We start by unscrewing the plastic top of the case from the bottom of the case. The screws in the bottom of the case are two-part: On brass(?) ring with threads on the inside and the outside that is screwed into the hole in the top case, and a "normal" screw that is screwed into the brass ring and holds the bottom case. In my case, the screws are pretty rusty, so that the ring will move inside the plastic. When it hits the bottom case, the resistance will markedly increase. At that point you better stop screwing until all 4 screws are lose, or you will damage the threading in the plastic. Guess how I know

For one of my screws, the screw came out of the brass ring. When I wanted to put the two parts together again, a piece broke of the brass ring. We are off to a good start ...
Ok, lets forget this little incident, and move along. The contamination shield is one the most aptly named keyboard parts I met so far. Also we see our first signs of rust on the stems and the solenoid.
Off with the keycaps and the contamination shield, on with the horror Rust, lots of rusty rust. I will need to buy quite some vinegar on Monday it seems.
Loosen 4 screws between the switch sandwich and the lower case, unscrew the solenoid and the cable, inspect some more rust ...
Here's a pic that includes the back of the case. That brown stuff where the cable has been? That's rust, who would have guessed.
Ok, I got bored with grit pictures at that point. Enough of the expected (rust), here's some bonus pictures of some unexpected things.

A lot of the 5251 that I have seen so far have mostly very yellowed legends, and then some that are white as snow. I always wondered if these where maybe replacement caps or something. Well today I found out that they are a completly different mold from the yellow ones. Note the stem color and the stripes inside the keycap. Also the yellow ones seem to have another color even inside the keycap. Maybe the color difference is not only due to yellowing. Maybe the caps had different colors even when new.
When I removed the switches I found that two had one of the little tabs that hold them in the plate broken. Something is broken and it wasn't me . I think they got stuck on the foam when the keyboard was assembled. Between this nasty foam and the contamination shield, foam and foil would have been an apt name for these keyboards, don't you think
One last thing for your beamspring nightmares: When I got the board, one of the switches wasn't clicking. I used this one to test disassembly of the switches themselves. Gloves help! Turns out that one of the springs on the sliders was bend and almost completely ripped of. Thankfully there is the second space bar switch which I can use as a replacement
Not to shabby for a days work ... now I'm off to search my ultrasonic cleaner.

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People often post photos of keyboards that look about average for ebay with a comment like "horrible / dirty" ....

This one exhibits true nastiness.

Well, we have seem enough 5251s from this source to not be surprised anymore.

The beamspring nastiness crown still goes to chzels bestiary in my opinion.

Didn't get to the rust yet ... and now I have stored it away for the next few weeks.

Beamspring part overview:
This foam is no more! He has ceased to be! 'E's expired and gone to meet 'is maker! ... THIS IS AN EX-FOAM!!

Hey, I want that nastiest beamspring crown!

This displaywriter had so much rust that all of the springs were completely rusted through, making it unrestorable without replacement springs which I haven't been able to find a close enough substitute for to actually use :/

Thank you for these posts! Very interesting to see what these things look like inside (however rusty this sample may be!).

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If someone actually remakes the beamspring switches like some people are claiming they are working on then maybe that can be a source of springs.

My beamspring was dirty on the inside but not as dirty as OP. My beamspring was actually from a member on this forum, you know who you are

It appears to me that beamsprings either remain sparkling new or rust like they mean it.

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orihalcon wrote: Hey, I want that nastiest beamspring crown!

This displaywriter had so much rust that all of the springs were completely rusted through, making it unrestorable without replacement springs which I haven't been able to find a close enough substitute for to actually use :/

Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 5.06.46 PM.png

Would it be possible to commission replacements ?

Everything else looks fixable

even the stems of the switch , a good soak in oxalic acid

taylorswiftttttt wrote: Got a 5251 coming. Paid too much, but I'm excited.

Well that was fast!

orihalcon wrote: Hey, I want that nastiest beamspring crown!

This displaywriter had so much rust that all of the springs were completely rusted through, making it unrestorable without replacement springs which I haven't been able to find a close enough substitute for to actually use :/]

That looks hardcore indeed.

orihalcon wrote: Hey, I want that nastiest beamspring crown!

This displaywriter had so much rust that all of the springs were completely rusted through, making it unrestorable without replacement springs which I haven't been able to find a close enough substitute for to actually use :/

Oh boy

Normally I find living and moving things way more nasty than "just" mechanical rust, but this is a very serious claim indeed.
Maybe Ellipse or the MF team can help. They have worked with spring manufacturers, haven't they?

Cattus_D wrote: Thank you for these posts! Very interesting to see what these things look like inside (however rusty this sample may be!).

Thanks for commenting.

I'll have to pass this on to Wodan, Khers, chzel, ohaimark, kuato, Tyr, snuci, Monster Toys and Halvar and probably somebody else I forgot

Dug through the archives to find a pic of the dirty switch plate of my beamer

'es dead Jim!

I will dig up a picture of my beamsping if you like.

I would show you the corrosion but it is that clean it looks as if it was made yesterday !

andrewjoy wrote: I will dig up a picture of my beamsping if you like.

I would show you the corrosion but it is that clean it looks as if it was made yesterday !

Yes, please do

Some progress: Citric acid fighting rust ...
acid wins
added some spray paint ... first time ever doing this. Came out okish, fucked up the upper left corner :/

One more thing: If you have a broken beam spring switch, check orihalcons ebay account!

I would compare beam springs to hard wood floor panels. Even if it looks tired and worn, just a little polishing and sanding it will look like day one again.

Good job~

Where can one gets the acitric acids

Thanks y11971alex, Mr.Nobody

Actually I'm now pondering to sand down and redo the left edge. Or remove all the paint and start over ...

Wingklip wrote: Where can one gets the acitric acids

I used this: http://www.hammerite.com.au/product/rust-remover-dip/. According to its product sheet it is a "Water solution of citric acid and other ingredients".

Did you sand or scuff the steel before painting? If yes, good. If no, redo.

I would just touch up the corner, frankly. Spray paint isn't durable enough to survive without a few texture and chip issues anyways.

ohaimark wrote: Did you sand or scuff the steel before painting? If yes, good. If no, redo.

What would be the effect of not sanding the steel before painting?

y11971alex wrote: I would compare beam springs to hard wood floor panels. Even if it looks tired and worn, just a little polishing and sanding it will look like day one again.

And what is underneath can sometimes be a mess... mould, rats, termite nests, etc.

After having just gone through the first few photos, I was thinking that OP is a "break-things-only" lunatic, but the following rust removal job looks amazing.

I like reading restoration posts.

Menuhin wrote: After having just gone through the first few photos, I was thinking that OP is a "break-things-only" lunatic, but the following rust removal job looks amazing.

It's called irony.

Well I don't break stuff intentionally, but I would certainly not consider myself mechanically inclined or experienced in keyboard restorations.

That means that some stuff will break, and I will document it here as lessons learned. This whole restoration is about me doing and learning things I don't normally do ... for me anyway.

That's also the reason why I want to paint it myself. I could probably just have the plates sandblasted and powder coated for less money than I will have spent in rust remover, primer, paint, paint remover, sandpaper, primer and paint again in the end .