deskthority

Sup guys, >really lazy guy who afk's a lot here

>Need keyboard that is very flat (reasons later)
>Have alps blue and orange but has to be super quiet
>Need to know how to wire the entire board to a pro micro and how to program the code using windows hex flashers and maybe hasu's stuff - pro micro pinouts instead of teensies
>Need NKRO
>Need to know which diodes to use
>Need to know dimensions of the alps switch and any available mounting plate hole sizes
>Need to know how to electronically de-rust complicated Alps sensing plates
(someone pretty much dipped the keyboard in acid)
>Needs to be maybe just a few mills higher than the combined height of the switch and the cap
>Needs to be superlight
>Needs to have a similar key profile to the M0116 and does not really need a numpad
>I have a 3d printer xddddddddd
So uh, any advice for a first time keyboard builder?

Easiest would be to get TMK Alps64 kit, with keycaps from a AEK or AEKII.
The keycap profile of those keyboards are the same as the M0116 but the layout is different and you won't get arrow keys.
You could of course snatch the Control and Esc keys from a M0116 and configure the keyboard for those.
It should fit into any Poker-compatible case - and there are many choices for cases, some flatter than others.

To silence:
* Change the sliders to sliders from Alps Cream (AEKII) or Matias Quiet. You could use those with click leafs from Blue or Orange, and you will get the same force curve and click but different sensation when you bottom or top. Mind the orientation of the sliders. You might want to lubricate them.
* Put electrical tape or other plastic/rubber on supports for the PCB/plate inside the case (standoffs / plastic ribs).
* Use a very rigid solid, heavy case -- counters the superlight requirement.
* Put sheets of bitumen inside any hollow parts for sound absorption.

Sheets of what?????!

Im planning to keep my AEK2 intact, and also need it to be as light, as silent, as thin as possible

The bitumen sheets are used in cars for absorbing vibrations. You should be able to find them in automotive supply stores.

I've removed the corroded switches from the even more heavily corroded switchplate, but some of the sense leaf legs have snapped off due to heavy corrosion... any way to fix this? So far I have lost 3 switches to this already

>Alps
>super quiet

HAHAHAHAHA

lots of WD-40

Any recommended diode values or serials?

I've also read that hydrogen peroxide, the miracle liquid, is also able to derust to some degree. I'll try it on the switchplates, literally I tested one and the resistance when closed was 100kR, it was that rusted in the sense plate.

So Vanish napisan cleans, derusts, and also retrobrites... What can it not do?