Hi All, performing the ergo clear mod....
If I remove LED's from the PCB can I leave them out completely once the KB is finished OR do I have to put jumpers (or replace the LEDs) after swapping the switches.
Basically will the broken connections where the LED's used to be make the keyboard not work if I don't put anything there?
removing LED's from PCB
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Ducky YYY 62g gold springs krytox MX Black sticker
- Main mouse: roccat kone xtd
- Favorite switch: Topre 45g / MX Black 62g lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I don't think they're necessary (if you can live without the backlight / lock indicators) but it's just a guess. They're certainly not the same as NKRO diodes, where are essential if fitted.
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Ducky YYY 62g gold springs krytox MX Black sticker
- Main mouse: roccat kone xtd
- Favorite switch: Topre 45g / MX Black 62g lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
OK, its a standard poker 2 PCB so should be fine. Its just I took the LEDs off and they dont have the usual "long leg short leg" indicator for their polarity......both legs are the same length, so balls to figuring out which way round they go in. I will buy new LEDs at a later date
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
test them with a coin battery
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Ducky YYY 62g gold springs krytox MX Black sticker
- Main mouse: roccat kone xtd
- Favorite switch: Topre 45g / MX Black 62g lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
hmm, will have to find one of them lying around...I need a 5v power source dont I?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
nope, 5v would likely fry the led. start with 1.2-1.5v and make the connection just for a second to find the polarity
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Don't do that without a resistor. You'll blow them!
The polarity is also marked by the shape of the plastic. There's a flat bit on one side. That side's the cathode.

You can also see which side is which inside the LED if it's transparent enough.
The polarity is also marked by the shape of the plastic. There's a flat bit on one side. That side's the cathode.

You can also see which side is which inside the LED if it's transparent enough.
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Ducky YYY 62g gold springs krytox MX Black sticker
- Main mouse: roccat kone xtd
- Favorite switch: Topre 45g / MX Black 62g lubed
- DT Pro Member: -
ah thanks, yes I can see inside which way around they are by the "wedge" shape of the internals. Do you think the KB would be OK without them...not fussed about backlighting
Also, wondering whether to first try the KB with stock lubed clears and then put brown springs for the ergo clear if its too tough....would be a pain to do the soldering twice. I think it'd be a good move to put the stock clears in unsoldered and type on it for a bit before deciding to do the full mod?
Also, wondering whether to first try the KB with stock lubed clears and then put brown springs for the ergo clear if its too tough....would be a pain to do the soldering twice. I think it'd be a good move to put the stock clears in unsoldered and type on it for a bit before deciding to do the full mod?