deskthority

Decided to jump in to round 2 but it says "Cancelled due to a failed MOQ", how close was it?

Hey everyone,

I'm planning a 68 key Alps build for Tada68-compatible cases based on LFKeyboards' SMK65 PCB. I have no CAD experience so I used ai03-2727's Voyager65 plate (https://github.com/ai03-2725/Voyager65-Keyplus/tree/master/Plate/Source) as a base. However since I wanted a 1.25/1.25/6.25/1/1 ...

Great switches, no question, tons of thanks to lsoelxi for doing this GB!

They are really good but not *that* good, not blue-alps-good :) They're not first gen whites, the clicky leaf is more abrupt (straight angles, not rounded) and the plastic materials are different and also thinner. Those ...

Just got mine, and I have to say honestly these are even better than excellent condition blue Alps unless you're somehow able to find NOS blue Alps.

swampangel wrote: 21 Apr 2019, 19:44

M4dn3ss wrote: 21 Apr 2019, 17:47 OP did you receive the switches yet?

He's been editing the first post with updates at the bottom.

It says they are shipped (to us) now, although the promised tracking number hasn't appeared on my paypal invoice yet.

Oh silly me, there were too many photos in it to notice

OP did you receive the switches yet?

(on that note, any tactile switches with a force curve like that? They all seem to have "round" rather than sharp tactile points)

Marquardt "Butterfly": https://plot.ly/~haata/545

They are only found in typewriters, quite fun to type on. Only issue I have with them is that they are too stiff ...

I feel like the SMK Clicky are more comparable to the Box Jade (thick click box whites). If you put that up on the poll I would have voted for that, as they are easier to work with.
Interesting, I have a Box Jade as well and while I do like it, I still prefer the smooth crispness of the Box White ...

How do these two "crisp light clicky switches" compare? I have a Box White in a switch tester and really like it, it's smoother and lighter than Blue Alps but with an inferior sound, but I was wondering how the clicky white SMK switches with MX sliders compare. They both seem to have similar force ...

And of course the big advantage is you can actually buy new keyboards with Matias switches in them.

ONLY if you're looking for V60 or TKL layouts. Where are the 104 or 108 Layout Keyboards?

Sick and TIRED of Mini Keyboards and please don't push Matias keyboards which are basically worthless ...

That might explain why I liked my friend's new V60 w/ Matias Click so much more than my Matias V80 that was so bad I returned it, though they still seem to have the issue where the switch doesn't click if you press it at certain angles.

Correct, that was why I didn't buy any keyboard from him ...

I noticed some new force curve graphs for Matias switches by HaaTa recently and surprisingly didn't see any mention of it here, so here they are... https://plot.ly/~haata/274/

It looks like the new retooled Matias Clicks are much lighter than the old ones. Surprised to see that no one has noticed ...

I thought bending the leaf was the "standard" way of fixing up stubborn Alps switches is it not? Especially when dealing with old boards that have been heavily used or stored badly where the click/tactile leaf or contact leaf might have gone out of shape.

https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/need ...

I thought bending the leaf was the "standard" way of fixing up stubborn Alps switches is it not? Especially when dealing with old boards that have been heavily used or stored badly where the click/tactile leaf or contact leaf might have gone out of shape.

https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/need ...

I have a batch of clicky SKCM Alps that actuate before the click. I tried "fixing" one by pressing the switchplate leaf to bend it slightly back, and when I tested it, it actuates very close to the click when pressed from directly above. However, if I press the switch from an angle it still actuates ...

Sorry since it seems people missed the point of the question, it's:
Which stabilisers are more tolerant of warped keycaps, Cherry or wire/Costar-style stabilisers?

Who here actually has one of these, did I just miss the reviews or what?
MechMerlin aka merlin64 has one on loan and he's uploaded a couple of typing demonstrations on Youtube

Quoting from Massdrop comment:
Hey guys, I was over at the Norcal Meetup this past Saturday 11/11/17. I was able to snag ...

Then I guess it is how it is. Hopefully XMIT's clicky/tactile hall effect switches will be the successor to complicated Alps we've all been waiting for, once they get the sound signature sorted!

Nothing will ever succeed complicated Alps SKCL/SKCM. Matias switches were the hope but failed ...

EDIT since it seems people missed the original point of the question:
Which stabilisers are more tolerant of warped keycaps, Cherry or wire/Costar-style stabilisers?

---
After finding out that my Alps mount DSA Granite keycaps have MX mounts for the stabilisers while my Filco Zero's plate uses ...

Then I guess it is how it is. Hopefully XMIT's clicky/tactile hall effect switches will be the successor to complicated Alps we've all been waiting for, once they get the sound signature sorted!

The extreme differences in keyfeel with visually very similair examples must be due to wear on the switch parts that may not be noticable visually right away.
I meant literally identical - as in, a clean switch vs that same switch but lubed. The only explanation I can think of is that the plastics ...

surely clean+lubed should be superior to clean+non lubed in terms of smoothness, for what reason would that not be the case?

NO! Because none of us are Alps Electric and none of these Alps SKCM are actually new out of the box.
I know that none of us are Alps Electric and it has proven impossible ...

I tested the Finish Line dry lube on a sacrificial piece of plastic, and after leaving it for a couple of weeks it's definitely greasy, I feel a bit ripped off that it isn't exactly dry, is it really supposed to be like this?

No. What exactly is "Finish Line dry lube"? You should use PTFE spray ...

Yeah, the sound is bad because bottom-out and upstroke noise is not something manufacturers bother to address by dampening internally. Matias Alps and MX "silent" switches are the only ones that do, and each of those come with other issues (lack of keycaps for Alps, scratchy sliders for MX, etc ...

I do have an allegedly clean and unused blue Alps board coming in the mail soon so hopefully they're good enough for me!

If you know those are clean and not worn down and you still don't like them it's time to try other switches. :roll:
I know what clean Alps feel like since I have a handful of ...

This has the potential to be the ultimate switch, with the smoothness and reliability of Hall Effect, keycap compatibility with Cherry MX, and tactile/clicky feedback in a similar manner to Alps.

However, the only question mark is the sound - having it still sound anything like this would be a ...

In the end, do you care that the sliders stay blue in color? If not, then get some better condition Orange Alps and put the blue click leaves and blue springs in them and you will end up with what is equivalent to Blue Alps as far as I know, but the slider will be orange. Not great for showing a ...

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner you could drop everything except for the switch plate in there. I found that my switches sometimes needed 3-4 cycles to get all the junk off, now after that with a very small amount of Teflon lube at the base of the slider, too much will make it feel grainy which ...

Even if the plastic is physically worn though, shouldn't a decent layer of lube help reduce the friction, which it doesn't seem to be doing?

Alternatively, are my expectations too high? For what it's worth, I have a bunch of loose white Alps from someone who had taken them from a board that was ...

If you've seen my previous posts you might know that I have a bunch of blue Alps switches I plan on using for a project but they don't feel very good. I've cleaned them with isopropyl alcohol and blasted them in an ultrasonic cleaner and they are still stiff and scratchy. So I thought the next step ...