deskthority

Hi! I have gotten inte some problems with my IBM F keyboard. It is a XT with the larger connector, and I thought it would be possible to make it work. I have used QMK before when I converted an old keyboard buth that was a bit simpler since the keyboard was found in the database at QMK.

I have also ...

Finally things are getting a bit better. I have tried different methods in order to avoid theeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese errooooooooooors, but nothing really worked until I saw in this thread that it is really important the the tension is evenly distributed between all the screws. So I took all apart (again ...

That would be my guess. Were you careful with the "crescents" at the hole sites? I understand that they are part of the alignment process.

Yes, at least I thought I was, so I think all of them were unharmed as I removed the plastic rivets. However, now I have began to substitute the washers from ...

there were not any problems before I installed it in the case.



There can be problems down at the bottom where the internal assembly gets close to the inside of the case. I have used slightly shorter screws down there, and usually leave out washers in the bottom row. And I have not done it ...

Do you have any particular method for cleaning the plastic circuit sheets?


Unless you are having problems you may not need to clean the internals. Otherwise, remember that you are cleaning circuit traces printed on mylar, so if a light wipe with water and a towel or sponge works, that may be ...

Do you have any particular method for cleaning the plastic circuit sheets?


Unless you are having problems you may not need to clean the internals. Otherwise, remember that you are cleaning circuit traces printed on mylar, so if a light wipe with water and a towel or sponge works, that may be ...

but how hard is hard?

enough to just release some of the screws?

clean the circuit sheets before assembly



You have replaced thin rods of plastic with steel machine parts - and you only need to keep components in their proper positions, not add tension (and/or compression). Just because ...

there seems to be a bit space around the drilled hole on the plastic side, so my plan is still to have the nuts and washer on that side.



I have always done the opposite, because I "tune" the pressure by hand-tightening the nuts with the socket in my fingers, and that would seem to be much ...

Finally, I'm done. It took a little while to get the hardware, but now it is completed.

As those who had the washer and nut on the metal side used 8 mm screws, I thought that 12 mm would be good. And for a while it looked good. However, I realised that some keys could not be pressed all the way ...

there seems to be a bit space around the drilled hole on the plastic side, so my plan is still to have the nuts and washer on that side.



I have always done the opposite, because I "tune" the pressure by hand-tightening the nuts with the socket in my fingers, and that would seem to be much ...

Ok, that seems logic. I havn't opened my case yet, but according to videos on YT there seems to be a bit space around the drilled hole on the plastic side, so my plan is still to have the nuts and washer on that side.

Yes, I agree. I mostly countersink in wood and that is quite simple, as long as it is flat. The rivets would look really nice, but I think it would be even more difficult to adjust the tension. I guess it is also easier to adjust the tension with bolts and nuts rather than screws, but that is just a ...

Late question in a great thread, but I wonder if anyone has tried to countersink the screws?

I have not tried, and I think i will use pan headed bolts instead. But it would probably look even better if I could countersink the metal plate in order for the countersank-headed-screws to be absolutely ...