deskthority

The NumLock key sends the appropriate "Num Lock" key code, but apparently if I want the functionality to switch the Model F's numeric pad to a cursor pad, I'll have to define that as a separate layer (makes sense, really. I keep forgetting that the xwhatsit controller makes no assumptions about many ...

And the solution is to select xwhatsit/ibm/fat/universal in Pandrew's configurator. This gets things working-- well, except for the "Num Lockl" key, which doesn't activate its LED or change the mapping on the num pad so I can use cursor keys. I suppose the solution there is to download the key map ...

It is definitely a 32U4; this designation is clearly visible on the controller. So the problem would appear to be that Pandrew's configurator is building a firmware file for the 32U2, which won't work on this as you noted. So I have to find a way to build the firmware file for this chip as opposed ...

I recently installed an xwhatsit controller into my original IBM Model F AT.

I’ve spent a couple of days now trying to get this working, and I think I'm likely missing something painfully obvious.

Installing the xwhatsit controller was no problem (I don’t use my vacuum desoldering station much ...

Weirdest. Searched across all forums for "modelfkeyboards.com" and "new model f keyboards" and got nothing...so I posted, and now when I search again, I get results.

Obviously this is a calculated attempt to DRIVE ME INSANE.

Wife points to piles of Model F/M keyboards I already have (and in the ...

So I stumbled across http://modelfkeyboards.com, which purports to be manufacturing brand new, metal, model F keyboard reproductions, for relatively reasonable prices, all things considered.

A search here didn't turn up anything. Anybody know about this or have any opinions?

Bought off eBay thinking it was a clicky; instead, it's a capacitive-foam setup, and all the foam has rotted away.

The keyboard is cosmetically almost perfect-- looks unused, really.

So I bought foam, and metallized Mylar, and plastic shim material and spray adhesive and a disc cutter and spent a ...

That looks exactly like the foam in my Model F XT. I just assumed someone had already replaced it, since it looked virtually new.

My two Model F ATs both had white foam that had degraded badly. I guess we see evidence of IBM pinching pennies even back then. On the gripping hand, I had the fun of ...

I'm not sure if I could handle it. When I first started with mech keyboards-- completely forgetting that the Apple //e and Apple /// keyboards I'd used back in the day were mech-- I thought Cherry key switches were incredible.

Well, they are, really, but then I became a Model M fanatic and used a ...

Just out of curiosity, how would you even use these keyboards with modern computers?

Yep, the numpad 8 key is a two-piece. I've contacted the seller to see if the might have the original keys, but it's not really a big deal.

Just finished rebuilding (i.e. take apart, clean, cut new foam, reassemble-- I'm getting good at this!) a Model F AT keyboard from eBay.

I didn't notice until I reassembled it that instead of a "Num Lock" key by the Esc key, it has a "/" key instead. And now that I look more closely, I see the up ...

Hit some hobby and hardware stores today and had a go at making my own replacement switch, using the Mylar and shim from an existing pad.

First, 5mm art foam is far too thick-- if it were "squishy" open cell foam it would be just right, but it's not very compressible and it reduces key travel to ...

It's become obvious that the keyboard will need to be completely rebuilt-- that is, new foam pads/Mylar disks at every key. Although most of the keys work, the foam is disintegrating on all of them. My green cheek conure-- a parakeet-sized bird-- flew over the keyboard while I was inspecting the ...

Foil and foam was a common solution back in the day. I worked at the long-defunct Corvus Systems, and our Concept 68K-based machines used keyboard like this (probably sourced from Key Tronic, although I don't know). So did the Apple Lisa.

Your suggestion of using metal foil tape as a quickie repair ...

Got impatient and went ahead and took it apart. It's a capacitive foam keyboard, and I cleaned the PCB and the foam pads on the problematic keys with alcohol. Reassembled and...no difference at all. Well, there's some difference: I can't get the "M" key to register at all now.

Is there a good ...

I just picked up a Key Tronic KB5150 keyboard (eBay). It's an early IBM Model F clone using a variant of the XT layout. Despite what I read in the WIki, it uses linear switches-- they feel rather like Cherry MX Blacks.

The keyboard is in spectacular condition. The top plastic case has a few scuffs ...

...and tritium would get rather expensive as well as attracting interest from government officials when you tried to procure large amounts of tritium paint for your keys. Tritium is considered a hazardous material even though it's not actually that dangerous, and also can be used to boost the yield ...

Spray painting is one method. Another is finding the PDF files of the metal plates floating around this website that wcass created and taping those to the foam to punch the foam. I found that method to be more accurate.

Hm. A quick look through the Wiki and the Photos section didn't turn anything ...

I used an antique 5/8" leather punch that I bought on ebay.

The barrels are 1/2" diameter, and I allowed the extra crescent of the cut to be diagonally down to the right to accommodate the "buttress" alignment tabs as found on the AT and 122-key styles.

How did you mark the foam for cutting? It ...

Sigmoid wrote: And I don't think I'd even dream of trying to use an xacto knife to cut circular holes in it... You can get a cheap Chinese leather punch set for $10.

Any Amazon links? The holes look like about 1/2", and none of the leather punches I see are anywhere near that large...

The neoprene foam I see online (i.e. Amazon) is closed-cell stuff, which means it will take more effort to compress. Has anyone actually used it? I wonder if the effort required to press down 104 (or however many) key barrels against even a thin layer of closed-cell foam would make reassembly too ...

I suppose if I were brave, I could try assembling a keyboard with no foam layer. Perhaps that would make the barrels "rattley". On the other hand, perhaps a new silicone foam layer would be nicer. Is there a standard tool people use to create the barrel holes in this foam? Trying to cut them out ...

OK, success! After cleaning and reassembling the keyboard, all the keys work and all is well. My only remaining complaint is that the indicator LEDs don't work, but they were intermittent previously.

Here's a question: what's the function of the foam sheet, other than providing a moisture barrier ...

I plan to disassemble the keyboard tomorrow or Thursday as time permits, then I will know what I need. Thanks for all the help!

UPDATE: I have taken the keyboard apart. Note for people who haven't done this: remove the key caps before separating the metal plates, because the hammers will not sit ...

Okay I have only recently started getting into Model F's, but I've seen something very much like what you're talking about in an XT I've disassembled. It might be reassuring that the hammers are perfectly alright. (And even if you have a broken hammer, Clickykeyboards usually stocks Model F barrel ...

Yes, I've taken off the key cap and replaced it; I've also tried replacing it with the "9" key cap. The insides of both caps look identical.

I'll hit the hardware store to buy some of the clamps I'll apparently need to reassemble this beast...

After using Mod Ms for years, the commercialization of Soarer's Converter finally prompted me to try a Mod F.

Needless to say, it was love at first type. I found two very nice units, cosmetically almost perfect, on eBay: an AT and an XT model. I prefer the AT for the larger Enter and Shift keys ...