Should I get MOD-L switches for typing? (Cherry MX blue user)

[polemon]

So, it's time to get a new keyboard.

So fat I've been using Cherry MX blue switches, the keyboard is now ten years old, and some switches show signs of wear. (one stopped working entirely, and a couple others are inconsistent when it comes to actuation force, they're noticeably harder to push down), others yet, don't click anymore. They still have this bump, but they just stopped clicking.

Now, I was thinking of getting another Cherry MX blue switched keyboard, like a DAS KEYBOARD Ultimate 4 (I like the design of these).

But then I had a look at WASD keyboards V2, they offer a more simplistic looking keyboard, with a wider selection of switches, specifically MOD-L/M/H/SH switches. These are modified switches, with different actuation forces, and bumps, but not clicks.

Now, I like light actuation, the Cherry MX blue was quite nice, I wouldn't want anything heavier. I certainly don't want linear switches, either.

I was thinking of getting the MOD-L switched keyboard, but it seems there's very little info about them. I was wondering if someone has used them, and has 1st hand experience to share?

Switches come from here: https://originative.co/products/mod-swi ... 0889037573
Keyboard that uses them is this one: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... board.html (nevermind the customization options, just note they offer the MOD-L/M/H switches)

I understand they're not clicky. Which on one hand is a bit of a bummer, but on the other hand, I'm the loudest office because of it. Also, I don't really need the clicky-ness really, as I mainly have my headphones on when typing, so, I don't hear most of the clicks anyhow.

[rich1051414]

The primary issue with cherry mx blue has to do with the click sleeve. If any dust or grime gets between the sleeve and the slider, the clicker could stop clicking entirely. Thankfully, under normal circumstances, when this happens usually correlates around the same time the metal begin fatiguing from use anyway, however, It does add an additional failure point for blue switches and as a result, shortens their lifetime.

This failure mode is common for all cherry and cherry clone switches with click jackets. However, not all of them have click jackets, the aristotle doesn't, and neither does box kailh switches. If you use clicky switches mostly for the tactility and not the sound, then switches based on cherry mx clear will probably last longer and give you the tactility you like(but no click). The Mod-M and heavier switches are based on cherry clear, so I recommend them. Mod-M if you want be to guess based on what you have said. Mod-L will likely be too light and not tactile enough for you if you are coming from cherry blues.

[polemon]

Hmm, ok, thanks for the insight.

I always thought since Cherry blues are weighted around 45g, the MOD-L would be the best corresponding fit, since they're also weighted at 45g.

I assumed the tactility would be roughly the same across the entire MOD-* range, just a stronger spring to resist pushing down on the button.

But the question is: are the MOD-* switches a good alternative, and are they worth the money? I can get a new DAS KEYBOARD for the same money. With MX blue and a couple extra features, like a USB hub. The WASD keyboard doesn't come with those, but they do MOD-* switches, hence me being interested.

[Daniel Beardsmore]

… This failure mode is common for all cherry and cherry clone switches with click jackets. However, not all of them have click jackets, the aristotle doesn't, …

Which Aristotle switches are you thinking of?

[rich1051414]

… This failure mode is common for all cherry and cherry clone switches with click jackets. However, not all of them have click jackets, the aristotle doesn't, …

Which Aristotle switches are you thinking of?

I thought aristotle's had a fang that caused them to click, not a sleeve.

Hmm, ok, thanks for the insight.

I always thought since Cherry blues are weighted around 45g, the MOD-L would be the best corresponding fit, since they're also weighted at 45g.

I assumed the tactility would be roughly the same across the entire MOD-* range, just a stronger spring to resist pushing down on the button.

But the question is: are the MOD-* switches a good alternative, and are they worth the money? I can get a new DAS KEYBOARD for the same money. With MX blue and a couple extra features, like a USB hub. The WASD keyboard doesn't come with those, but they do MOD-* switches, hence me being interested.

If you care more about the switch being really light than you care about how the switch actually feels, then the Mod-L might be a good compromise. It is important to remember that everyone is different, so do what you think is best for what you are looking for A stronger tactile bump will invariably increase the effective weight of the switch.

[codemonkeymike]

… This failure mode is common for all cherry and cherry clone switches with click jackets. However, not all of them have click jackets, the aristotle doesn't, …

Which Aristotle switches are you thinking of?

I thought aristotle's had a fang that caused them to click, not a sleeve.
<snip>

I thought the same, as from the pictures on the wiki
wiki/Aristotle_Cherry_MX_clone

[polemon]

If you care more about the switch being really light than you care about how the switch actually feels, then the Mod-L might be a good compromise. It is important to remember that everyone is different, so do what you think is best for what you are looking for A stronger tactile bump will invariably increase the effective weight of the switch.

I though the lightness of the switch is its only real defining factor, obviously I was mistaken. I thought the bump is more or less the same across the product range, and the resistance force is different between the variants.

So you were saying, that MOD-M would be probably the closest resemblance to the blue switches I'm used to, both in force and bump characteristics, etc.

I quite like the clicking of MX blues, the problem is, they don't really seem to have the kinda longevity I'd want to. My DAS KEYBOARD Ultimate (the older version) has the switches mounted in such a way, that makes it impossible to replace them, as they're between the metal board and the PCB. To replace them, I cannot simply de-solder the switches which are broken. Some of them stopped clicking, one is completely dead, and others have a different feel, their either gained in resistance force or became more scratchy, etc.

On one hand I want the clicking of the Blues, but ultimately, it's not /that/ necessary, because I don't hear it most of the time, instead I type by feel. The bump is what I type by.

In that sense, I though that for my next keyboard, it wouldn't make much sense investing in yet another MX Blue keyboard, but perhaps look for something different.

Btw. in case anyone asks: I've cleaned the keyboard once every six months or so with 99.9% industrial Isopopanol.

[rich1051414]

So you were saying, that MOD-M would be probably the closest resemblance to the blue switches I'm used to, both in force and bump characteristics, etc.

Yeah, that's what I am saying. The Mod-L switch has a shallower tactile bump than the Mod-M to make the switch feel lighter. The stem on the Mod-L is more like a brown switch than clear. However, on the Mod-M and heavier, they are all based on the clear stem, which has a much more defined tactility. Therefore, the decision on which is best is up to you, and how much you prioritize the tactility.

[polemon]

Yeah, that's what I am saying. The Mod-L switch has a shallower tactile bump than the Mod-M to make the switch feel lighter. The stem on the Mod-L is more like a brown switch than clear. However, on the Mod-M and heavier, they are all based on the clear stem, which has a much more defined tactility. Therefore, the decision on which is best is up to you, and how much you prioritize the tactility.

Aaah! That clears up my confusion, thanks for that! The MOD-H switches are a little too heavy I suppose, as they've probably put a stronger spring in them?

They also have a MOD-SH (super heavy?) variant, which I assume is intended for space bar, etc. Similar to how the original intention of the MX Greens.

[Elrick]

Aaah! That clears up my confusion, thanks for that! The MOD-H switches are a little too heavy I suppose, as they've probably put a stronger spring in them?

They also have a MOD-SH (super heavy?) variant, which I assume is intended for space bar, etc. Similar to how the original intention of the MX Greens.

DAMN you got me interested in this so-called MOD-SH switch. Do want, I actually love the MOD-H's but they still lack that force I am looking for. I need a switch that will not only break my fingers for touching them but also teaches me to type correctly instead of wasting time.

When using any keyboard, it needs to be extremely hard and firm and takes no prisoners .

[rich1051414]

I want to update after having actually tried the mod-m switch, after being disappointed by the mod-l switch. The mod-m switch feels almost exactly like jailhouse blues. They are even colored like my set of kailh jailhouse blues xD The tactility is sharper than zealios switches, the switches themselves are not as smooth however. The final effective weighting of the Mod-M switch is actually quite close to cherry mx blues, while the mod-l was actually much lighter with a very light bump, the mod-l switch reminded me of a lighter weight kailh brown.
I definitely recommend the mod-m, very nice to type on. If you are ambitious enough, a good lubing will improve them.

[polemon]

Tbh, lubing switches is a bit strange to me. If anything I've been trying to remove grease or anything else by using Isopropyl alcohol. Wouldn't the lube actually attract dust, etc?

[polemon]

DAMN you got me interested in this so-called MOD-SH switch. Do want, I actually love the MOD-H's but they still lack that force I am looking for. I need a switch that will not only break my fingers for touching them but also teaches me to type correctly instead of wasting time.

When using any keyboard, it needs to be extremely hard and firm and takes no prisoners .

I don't like heavy switches, hence me thinking of getting the MOD-L ones. But I also want tactility. Cherry makes green switches which are essentially MX Blue but with a heavier spring, intended to be used for the space bar. However I think there is at least one manufacturer, who offers a keyboard, entirely made with MX Greens.

I assume the MOD-SH is intended for the same purpose. Although I haven't seen any such keyboard on offer, but I can definitely imagine someone having a keyboard entirely made with MOD-SH.

Also, all sarcasm aside, I had none person explain to me the benefits of a rubberized, "waterproof" keyboard, without irony or anything. I can't even...

So there.

If you really want a super-heavy switch that can split atoms: https://www.e-switch.com/product-catalo ... l-switches <--- build a keyboard out of these, 5N activation force, which is roughly 500g.

Also, this: https://www.e-switch.com/product-catalo ... ctionality

This is clearly a Cherry clone. 60g activation.

BTW, can we please stop saying things like "40g activation force" can't we just say "0.4N activation force" to make it correct? Mass isn't a force, at least can we call it "activation mass"?

[lepidus]

I thought aristotle's had a fang that caused them to click, not a sleeve.
<snip>

I thought the same, as from the pictures on the wiki
wiki/Aristotle_Cherry_MX_clone

You mean the fangs under the tactile bump? I dont think they do anything, I tried chopping them off and couldn't notice any difference. Aristotles do have a click slider, but it runs inside of the stems.

[rich1051414]

I thought aristotle's had a fang that caused them to click, not a sleeve.
<snip>

I thought the same, as from the pictures on the wiki
wiki/Aristotle_Cherry_MX_clone

You mean the fangs under the tactile bump? I dont think they do anything, I tried chopping them off and couldn't notice any difference. Aristotles do have a click slider, but it runs inside of the stems.

Thanks, now we know