Alps switch contacts repair.

[maxrunner]

Hi! is it possible to repair alps switch contacts if you pull the switch by accident while trying to pull the keycap:

[ripster]

Sure. Just open up the switch and slide the plate back down.

I don't think the wiki here has that .
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Keyboard_modification

And Geekhack destroyed the All About ALPS Wiki ಠ_ಠ

Spoiler:

Q. How to open up an ALPS switch?

see video here, using standard "2 screwdriver" method: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:7121

Do NOT pry too aggressively or you will break the switch bottoms. The idea is to use thin screwdrivers, insert straight down, and pinch the two screwdrivers together and pull, not pry.

Additional info and alternate/faster methods:
http://geekhack.org/showpost.php?p=111922&postcount=11


Q. How do I reassemble it afterwards?

See video here: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:7121

Note the orientation of the slider AND the upper case (although some people say they can't feel the difference).



Be cautious here. You can bend the tactile leaf so make sure you note the orientation of the click leaf.


A spot of vaseline or silicon grease will help "stick" the spring inside the slider and keep it from falling out, which is the main difficulty. Or use a magnet held above the slider.
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title= ... t=vaseline (scroll down a bit).



Also be super careful when reassembling Type 1 simplifieds. They actuation mechanism is very easy to damage even with correct upper case orientation. It's very easy to crush or bend them such that they don't work.

Q. How can I tell an Type II switch from a Type I without opening up the switch?

If you remove the key, you can tell between these two switch types without having to further open up the switch guts. You'll need a flashlight to peer at the left-right mounting tabs. See pics linked below. The left-right mounting tabs will be slightly different. The XM's tabs are "ridges" and the Type I's tabs are "flat".
You can see that difference here: http://geekhack.org/showpost.php?p=109390&postcount=1
If you do open up the guts (and as an alternate photo shoot), you'll see this difference: http://geekhack.org/showpost.php?p=116887&postcount=93

So...try youtube. some pics here what it SHOULD look like.
http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/swa ... t3395.html

Can't answer you for 30 mins..........

[maxrunner]

Sure. Just open up the switch and slide the plate back down.

I don't think the wiki here has that and the GH wiki is defunct.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Keyboard_modification

So...try youtube. some pics here what it SHOULD look like.
http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/swa ... t3395.html

So you're saying that there's more contact wire inside the switch?

[Soarer]

Aww shucks. I was gonna mock ripster for being so totally wrong, but you failed to mention that this is a known disabled key on the ISO Ortek MCK-84s

[maxrunner]

Yep, yes it is. i was wondering if there was any way to salvage this, the strange thing is i was trying to remove the keycap with the key puller without to force it much and the switch came back attached to the cap. Now i'm a little afraid to try to remove the other caps, is this board a little fragile in that regard?

regards,

[ripster]

ask Soarer

He is the know it all today.

[Soarer]

Yeah. So...

On my MCK-84s, the extra ISO switch was disabled by having one leg bent flat against the switch, with one leg soldered into the PCB to secure it. On maxrunner's, it appears that they simply cut both legs off the switch, leaving it secured to just the plate by its plastic clips. Which is a right pain for him, since it makes the switch virtually unusable

[maxrunner]

If anyone has some Fukka switches lying around i'm interested