SlientClick wrote: ↑
05 Jun 2020, 16:46
Razerban wrote: ↑
05 Jun 2020, 13:40
@SuperAmi: Did you order the corrected version from JLCPCB ? Have you received them yet ?
Also, did you have time to post the gerbers on Github ?
Thanks for your efforts!
This, in the middle of build a tiny tight dactyl prototype right now and this board would be perfect for the next iteration!
I got the boards back on Thursday. That makes two revisions, and I'm still waiting on the sockets, LEDs, diodes and other parts from AliExpress. I guess they are more Ali than Express...
I was waiting to post until I had a chance to actually verify the design and clean up the files. Its my first KiCAD project and I don't think I have the libraries and other aspects setup cleanly, but if it will help, you are free to try it out. I have 5 16x5 panels and don't need them all. I can send you a panel, but unless you are in Europe the shipping is currently prohibitive due to COVID-19.
The Fork is here: https://github.com/JKing-B16/keyboard-p ... moeba-king
I basically added my work under the amoeba-king folder. I've also added some initial work on an OpenSCAD library for a 3D design to hold the boards. I'm currently working on an ErgoDox-Dactyl layout. I've also started in on a Numpad keyboard as an initial prototype of the 3D design and to practice soldering techniques, but you can find a rough layout for my Dactyl design in the columns.scad file as well. The SCAD is based around a single key module that holds the PCB fairly well. There is a grip version for single boards that grips the bottom of the board as well.
My plan is to use standard ribbon cable to connect up the LED's/rows/columns. This hasn't been as easy as I'd hoped. A lot has to do with the short connections. They transfer heat to easily. Combine that with the stranded cable in ribbon cables, and you get bus wire that sometimes becomes a bus bush. If anyone knows a decent source for solid-core ribbon cable, that would be great.
Switching to a leaded solder allowed me to lower the heat and improved my success rate. The best technique so far was to take 4 wires of ribbon cable, strip them together and insert them carefully into the board, solder them to one board, trim the cable to length, and then pull off the insulation and solder the other side. I think for longer runs, like a dactyl layout, you could get back in with the strippers and actually leave the sheathing on, but for short runs there is not enough meat to grab.
Here is a short preview of soldering. https://youtu.be/Nhtp69AZE4M
Here is an image of the bus wire soldered. I'm still waiting on the solid core wire delivery to finish up the row and LED soldering.
As you can see in the video, when it works, its really nice, but I had to resolder every third try.
I am glad I increased the pad size on the connectors. It makes for easy surface soldering as well.
I'll try to post more, once the rest of the parts arrive in the next 2-3 weeks.