WASD keyboards

[cpapp]

I may have changed my mind about which brand of keyboard I want.
Im ordering a "test" sampler of some of the switches, but I think I will like mx clears or "panda clears".
I have searched to see if WASD was a good brand, many said it was, but most of the posts were from 2010>.
Anyone vouch for their quality?
I was specifically looking at this one.
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... board.html
or customizing one
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... board.html
Thanks for the help in advance!

[daedalus]

They recently cleared out their stock of their original boards and have launched a new model. I haven't seen much discussion of it here, but I plan on buying one soon-ish.

[cpapp]

They recently cleared out their stock of their original boards and have launched a new model. I haven't seen much discussion of it here, but I plan on buying one soon-ish.

Have they announced that they changed anything drastically?

[Hypersphere]

I asked them about getting a second-batch CODE TKL with clears, and they said they would probably not be able to get clears again. Given that situation, I would probably look at other options.

Recently, I got a CM QFS with Cherry mx greens. This felt quite solid and helped my tendency to actuate keys accidentally.

But more recently, I acquired a Leopold FC660C with Torpe switches -- my new favorite. All it needs is a good set of dye sub PBT Torpe keycaps, but these are not currently available.

[cpapp]

I asked them about getting a second-batch CODE TKL with clears, and they said they would probably not be able to get clears again. Given that situation, I would probably look at other options.

Recently, I got a CM QFS with Cherry mx greens. This felt quite solid and helped my tendency to actuate keys accidentally.

But more recently, I acquired a Leopold FC660C with Torpe switches -- my new favorite. All it needs is a good set of dye sub PBT Torpe keycaps, but these are not currently available.

Dang. I'm still going to get a cherry mx sampler kit, and will probably still be getting clears. May have to get a Deck (only one I know of in stock, $200 though) or wait for a Ducky to come in stock.

[Halvar]

Ok, here's what will happen basically: you'll buy the one with clears, you'll be happy with it. Then, after playing around with the switch sample set, there will be that nagging doubt if some lighter switch might be better. You might make ergo clears first or not, but sooner or later, you'll buy a keyboard with that other switch (brown, blue, red) and you might or might not find it better than clears.

There might be more iterations of that. In the end, in order to regain peace of mind, you will buy a Topre keyboard that will be so absurdly expensive for a keyboard that you will feel an urge to tell everyone in the keybord world that this rubber dome is the best switch mankind ever made and totally worth the price. This phenomenon is called "Apple effect" by the way.

That's how it works. There might be detours on IBM and Alps/Mathias if you're unlucky.

[Muirium]

Scathing insight, Halvar! And you're probably right.

Everyone has their own favourite, and their own tale of getting there. You either care enough to do the keyboard conga, or you're sane. We can safely assume, given the venue, that none of us are the latter.

By the way, you can tell a true Topre fan from a neophyte by the fact that only the latter even pretends to justify the price. All keyboards below two hundred are simply suspect, surely.

[002]

If we're talking about the dark world of ravenous fanboys, then a Cherry fan can (and from what I've seen, certainly do) spend just as much as a Topre collector. People like to pick on Topre because it's expensive but the truth is that the really good Cherry or IBM stuff is right up there as well.

[Muirium]

Very true. Buckling spring can be wonderfully frugal so long as you have the desk space. (£30 for my mint 103 key Model M, with dyesub PBT caps as standard.) If you want something smaller, though: SSKs go for HHKB money!

[cpapp]

Ok, here's what will happen basically: you'll buy the one with clears, you'll be happy with it. Then, after playing around with the switch sample set, there will be that nagging doubt if some lighter switch might be better. You might make ergo clears first or not, but sooner or later, you'll buy a keyboard with that other switch (brown, blue, red) and you might or might not find it better than clears.

There might be more iterations of that. In the end, in order to regain peace of mind, you will buy a Topre keyboard that will be so absurdly expensive for a keyboard that you will feel an urge to tell everyone in the keybord world that this rubber dome is the best switch mankind ever made and totally worth the price. This phenomenon is called "Apple effect" by the way.

That's how it works. There might be detours on IBM and Alps/Mathias if you're unlucky.

I'll try not to let a keyboard obsession take me that far. Two keyboard max(not crazy about them now, just want a mechanical one)
I plan on getting the switch sampler first, and then going to see which I like best. If I do end up buying more and more keyboards, I do have quite a collection of things I need to sell.
Also, I do not think I will like a lighter switch. The blues in a blackwidow were almost mushy to me.

[ne0phyte]

Also, I do not think I will like a lighter switch. The blues in a blackwidow were almost mushy to me.

MX Clears are really mushy compared to MX Blue. You should go for greens (if you can find one / don't mind waiting and replacing the switches)

In the end you will buy > 1 keyboards, though.

[cpapp]

Also, I do not think I will like a lighter switch. The blues in a blackwidow were almost mushy to me.

MX Clears are really mushy compared to MX Blue. You should go for greens (if you can find one / don't mind waiting and replacing the switches)

In the end you will buy > 1 keyboards, though.

Really? I meant mushy as in how much weight is needed to activate the switch.
Just ordered a sampler kit, should be able to see which I prefer best. Also, I do not think I will buy more than 1 if I buy the right switch the first time.
Also, WASD keyboards are Mac compatible, correct?

[Hypersphere]

Also, I do not think I will like a lighter switch. The blues in a blackwidow were almost mushy to me.

MX Clears are really mushy compared to MX Blue. You should go for greens (if you can find one / don't mind waiting and replacing the switches)

In the end you will buy > 1 keyboards, though.

Really? I meant mushy as in how much weight is needed to activate the switch.
Just ordered a sampler kit, should be able to see which I prefer best. Also, I do not think I will buy more than 1 if I buy the right switch the first time.
Also, WASD keyboards are Mac compatible, correct?

Unfortunately, the term, "mushy" seems an imprecise adjective that has different meanings to different people. It can also be difficult to choose a switch unless it is embedded in the context of a fully functional keyboard.

As for Mac compatibility, my primary computer is a Mac. I have used a dozen or so different keyboards with it and have yet to encounter a board that is not compatible. The only one I have heard not to work is the Choc Mini, but I have not tried this one myself. I have not tried a WASD keyboard, but I see no reason why it should not work, as it appears to be quite standard.

[Muirium]

Yeah, clears aren't exactly famed for being mushy, or even light; in fact they're too tough for many people's tastes which is why Ergo Clears etc. are a thing.

Buckling spring is the only switch which makes clears feel lightweight. Clicky greens and tactile greys are the toughest Cherry choices, but hard to find in keyboards unless you solder them in.

[cpapp]

Ok thanks for the help so far guys!
Once the sampler kit comes in, I'll probably update this thread as to which model of the WASD keyboard I'll be getting. If the clears are too stiff, I don't think blacks would be that stiff (think they're called 'panda clears'?) so I could always make those or ergo if I like the tactile bump.
Blues are out of the option for now, don't like the clicky noise because when I use this keyboard at night (right now) it can;t be too loud, as some people are sleeping.

[Vierax]

Clears are ok if you have strengh in your fingers (playing bass guitar for example) or if you don't type during long sessions. They are a little bit harder than Blacks because of the tactile bump. Browns are lighter than clears (as reds are for blacks) and your pinkies must appreciate them. But some people thought they lack tactile bump so they made ergoclears.
As murium said, greens and greys are hard to find : some brand set them under space bars respectively on blue and clear boards. You should buy a sample of all flavours by 7bit

[Muirium]

Ergo clears are such a popular mod that Cherry could sell them ready made if they wanted to. With pink stems!

[davkol]

derp

[Hypersphere]

If you are thinking of ordering through WASDkeyboards, they got back to me about Cherry mx clears, saying that they doubted they would be able to get clears for their next batch of keyboards.

If I were going to use a Cherry-switch keyboard again, it might be the CM QFS with greens. However, since recently discovering Topre switches (in the Leopold FC660C), I would find it difficult to go back to Cherry switches of any kind. Among the switches I have tried, I would rank them as follows:

Topre 45-gram ~ IBM buckling spring >> Matias tactile/clicky > Cherry mx green > other Cherry

[cpapp]

The kit does not include greens, but it does have blue, black, red, brown, and clear. If I do not like clear, I can try to make some ergo/panda clears to see if those feel any better. Most of the Topre 45g keyboards I've seen are more than $150, or they look to normal.
Mechanicalkeyboards.com has one or two keyboards with greens in stock, I'll have to order one to test out.

[cpapp]

So I have new requirements (sort of)
-Tenkeyless (Think I said this before?)
-Does NOT have to be backlit, if it is, it will probably be higher on the list
-I'm thinking I will want clears, but as those are getting more difficult to find, I may get blacks (depending on which I like best once the sampler gets in) and can always replace the stems with clear ones for Panda clears (maybe ergo)
-Should have arrow keys. I sometimes use them, and some games need them

I keep seeing this keycool brand, how are they? Was also looking at a Poker, sadly no arrow keys, so it's a no.

Ones that caught my attention:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... etail&p=71
Looks ok (case wise) and is cheap.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... tail&p=308
Looks ok to me.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... tail&p=375
Also never heard of this brand.


Budget is still $150, ordering overseas isn't really an issue.

[Hypersphere]

So I have new requirements (sort of)
-Tenkeyless (Think I said this before?)
-Does NOT have to be backlit, if it is, it will probably be higher on the list
-I'm thinking I will want clears, but as those are getting more difficult to find, I may get blacks (depending on which I like best once the sampler gets in) and can always replace the stems with clear ones for Panda clears (maybe ergo)
-Should have arrow keys. I sometimes use them, and some games need them

I keep seeing this keycool brand, how are they? Was also looking at a Poker, sadly no arrow keys, so it's a no.

Ones that caught my attention:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... etail&p=71
Looks ok (case wise) and is cheap.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... tail&p=308
Looks ok to me.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... tail&p=375
Also never heard of this brand.

Budget is still $150, ordering overseas isn't really an issue.

I could not recommend Keycool for a variety of reasons. I've found their quality lacking, and I don't like the appearance of their keyboards.

CoolerMaster makes some solid products, especially for the price. They also offer the QFR and QFS models with Cherry mx green switches. If I still liked Cherry-switch boards, I would probably go with CM just so I could get greens.

I would not recommend the Pure. If you like its layout, I would say get a Poker II instead. It has a standard layout, but it lacks dedicated arrow keys.

The Tex Beetle has excellent build quality, good looks, and dedicated arrow keys. However, typing can be difficult with the non-standard staggering in the z-row and the small 1x right-shift key.

My current favorite among boards that can be bought new today is the Leopold FC660C (Topre switches). However, although the keycaps are PBT and feel good, they are ugly IMO. I am hoping they will come out with some decent white/gray dye-sub PBT keycaps like those on the RF 87U or the HHKB Pro 2. Until then, I will continue to use my IBM SSK.

If you need to stay at 150 USD or below, I'd say go with a CM board. I have a CM QFS with Cherry mx greens, and I like it more than any other Cherry-switch board that I have tried.

[cpapp]

So I have new requirements (sort of)
-Tenkeyless (Think I said this before?)
-Does NOT have to be backlit, if it is, it will probably be higher on the list
-I'm thinking I will want clears, but as those are getting more difficult to find, I may get blacks (depending on which I like best once the sampler gets in) and can always replace the stems with clear ones for Panda clears (maybe ergo)
-Should have arrow keys. I sometimes use them, and some games need them

I keep seeing this keycool brand, how are they? Was also looking at a Poker, sadly no arrow keys, so it's a no.

Ones that caught my attention:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... etail&p=71
Looks ok (case wise) and is cheap.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... tail&p=308
Looks ok to me.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... tail&p=375
Also never heard of this brand.

Budget is still $150, ordering overseas isn't really an issue.

I could not recommend Keycool for a variety of reasons. I've found their quality lacking, and I don't like the appearance of their keyboards.

CoolerMaster makes some solid products, especially for the price. They also offer the QFR and QFS models with Cherry mx green switches. If I still liked Cherry-switch boards, I would probably go with CM just so I could get greens.

I would not recommend the Pure. If you like its layout, I would say get a Poker II instead. It has a standard layout, but it lacks dedicated arrow keys.

The Tex Beetle has excellent build quality, good looks, and dedicated arrow keys. However, typing can be difficult with the non-standard staggering in the z-row and the small 1x right-shift key.

My current favorite among boards that can be bought new today is the Leopold FC660C (Topre switches). However, although the keycaps are PBT and feel good, they are ugly IMO. I am hoping they will come out with some decent white/gray dye-sub PBT keycaps like those on the RF 87U or the HHKB Pro 2. Until then, I will continue to use my IBM SSK.

If you need to stay at 150 USD or below, I'd say go with a CM board. I have a CM QFS with Cherry mx greens, and I like it more than any other Cherry-switch board that I have tried.

I will most likely go with the CM then. I have read good things about it, but for only $80 (around 61 euros according to a converter) is it going to last? I don't mind paying $70 more if it will last twice as long.

[Broadmonkey]

I have a tkl keycool and I see absolutely no reason not to recommend it. Soldering spots are fine on them and the case is sturdy. The only reason I would opt for any other brand is looks. If you want a back-lit tkl keycool really is a great option, and something you can't get with a CM QFS.

[iAmAhab]

I'll back Keycool also. They are cheap, have nice feet with rubber for raising the board, have detachable cable with different routing possibilities and are generally built like tanks. I've also seen a lot of other people recommend them.

[Hypersphere]

I will most likely go with the CM then. I have read good things about it, but for only $80 (around 61 euros according to a converter) is it going to last? I don't mind paying $70 more if it will last twice as long.

I think that at least some CM boards have two-year warranties, which might be some indication of longevity. Even Realforce, which is often touted as a maker of long-lasting boards, has only a one-year warranty. My CM QFS with Cherry mx greens feels quite solid, but I've only had it for about a month. I've heard that Filco uses a better quality PCB than those in CM boards, and that this might add to longevity, but I think Filco has only a one-year warranty. On the other hand, if something does go wrong with a keyboard, it could be difficult to collect on a warranty depending upon the country issuing the sale and the country in which the buyer resides.

If you want a really long-lasting board, consider an IBM Model M or SSK. I'm typing this on an SSK that I was lucky enough to find NIB on eBay. It is 23 years old and looks and feels brand new. I have full-size Model Ms at work that have been in service for many years with so signs of giving up.

[Findecanor]

Clears are ok if you have strengh in your fingers (playing bass guitar for example) or if you don't type during long sessions.

Clears are harder only if you type on them as you would type blues. Once you have adjusted your typing style to Clears, they are very comfortable.

CoolerMaster makes some solid products, especially for the price. They also offer the QFR and QFS models with Cherry mx green switches. If I still liked Cherry-switch boards, I would probably go with CM just so I could get greens.

Not in ISO. They are only available in ISO with Blacks or Reds.
... AFAIK. If you have found them in ISO and some other switch, please LMK because I might buy it!

[Broadmonkey]

I think that at least some CM boards have two-year warranties, which might be some indication of longevity. Even Realforce, which is often touted as a maker of long-lasting boards, has only a one-year warranty. My CM QFS with Cherry mx greens feels quite solid, but I've only had it for about a month. I've heard that Filco uses a better quality PCB than those in CM boards, and that this might add to longevity, but I think Filco has only a one-year warranty. On the other hand, if something does go wrong with a keyboard, it could be difficult to collect on a warranty depending upon the country issuing the sale and the country in which the buyer resides.

If you want a really long-lasting board, consider an IBM Model M or SSK. I'm typing this on an SSK that I was lucky enough to find NIB on eBay. It is 23 years old and looks and feels brand new. I have full-size Model Ms at work that have been in service for many years with so signs of giving up.

Seriously, look at the amount of cockold keyboards that is bought and used by members on this forum and how small amount of them that is defect in some way, even those that has seen a lot of abuse. Basically there is not much that can go wrong with a mechanical keyboard since the switches is almost impossible to wear down, and they are the same in all cherry MX keyboards. The only thing (which I have seen/heard) that can go wrong with the PCB is that the soldering joints is not properly done, which I have only really seen examples of on CM QFR with the left ALT key (IIRC).
The other instance of bad soldering is on the Rosewill RK-9000 where they had some problems with the USB connector if you disconnected and connected the detachable cable regularly over a period of 4-6 moths.
I have never really heard of any bad controllers/components, apart from the dried up capacitors on IBM M2 keyboards.
LEDs can sometimes be faulty but is not necessarily something that you can point to specific brands.

[bhtooefr]

Eh, there's plenty of worn-out MX switches out there.

[Muirium]

And worn out buckling springs. Even Hall Effect switches wear out with enough abuse. Mechanical = susceptible to failure. Capacitative touchscreens ought to be more likely still functional in the long run, so long as they're not smashed.