Tipro model is this single layer pcb ?
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Speaking of beep, if you disable it in changeme it occurs only when the rollover is over its point of keystrokes (should be 4KRO boards) and that depends on every board : I have one which beeps frequently, the other very rarely.
If you have solder skills, you can buy a MID and add a Teensy into it with hand wiring matrix and diodes : There is plenty of space in those keyboards ! With that mod, you can no longer chain them as before (with only one controller) but you still can plug them on a usb hub and even putting it into one of them to save space and be able to chain them again.
If you have solder skills, you can buy a MID and add a Teensy into it with hand wiring matrix and diodes : There is plenty of space in those keyboards ! With that mod, you can no longer chain them as before (with only one controller) but you still can plug them on a usb hub and even putting it into one of them to save space and be able to chain them again.
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
I didn't have to remove the buzzer in the end. I was wrong and kbdfr was right. I didn't realize you had to press update.
I really want the ISO type enter key to fit on this board.
I really want the ISO type enter key to fit on this board.
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
#kbdfrkbdfr wrote: [*]Big enter key: on my keyboard not the keyboard itself has been modified, but the keycap.
Explanation: the original (horizontal, C row) Enter key sits on two switches, only the left one being active (i.e. in fact programmed as the Enter key) and the right one being inactive, having no spring and merely serving as a stabilizer. To make it an ISO Enter key (what you call "big enter key"), the (D row) upper switch is programmed as the Enter key, the right lower (C row) switch is still used as a stabilizer and the left lower (C row) switch is programmed according to the national layout used (e.g. µ* for French layout, '# for German layout).
The stems of the Enter keycap have been modified to fit the location of the switches.[/list]
Any more questions, just ask
Do I have to contact a specialist to get a cherry mx iso enter key specially made?
The only cherry mx sio enter keys I can see online have three cross sections for the switches. I'd really like to use the two spaces below keeping the backspace where it is and the tipro key also where it is. Please could you explain how you achieved this?

to fill those two spaces I need a combination of a normal key and this size key seen below to form a smallish iso enter key. So an upside down large L shape covering two spaces. Not a combination of the enter key which is straight in the picture and the mid size key above it.

did you have to solder some stabalizers as Id like to make the back space less difficult to press. I currently have all the letters with triple o ring on so It would be good if I could use triple o ring on stabalizers aswell
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
:O dude how did you do that?
Once I do this can I change my name to kbdfr the second?
pm if you like or offer guidance per thread as usual
I think mine would have to be 1.5 wide at the top and 1 at the bottom in order to cover two keys. Or I could cover three keys in which case I think it would be 1.5 at the top and 2 on the bottom
http://www.keycapsdirect.com/pdfs/DCSFamily.pdf shows one J shaped key as 1.5 x 2 x 0.75 x 1 the only question about this one is will the 0.75 fit
In the meantime I am http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/key ... t3794.html pondering whether to bump this thread or not to
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- Location: uk (yorkshire)
- Main keyboard: many
- Main mouse: rat 5 modded
- Favorite switch: cherry mx black
- DT Pro Member: -
jond_keyhack wrote::O dude how did you do that?
Once I do this can I change my name to kbdfr the second?
pm if you like or offer guidance per thread as usual
I think mine would have to be 1.5 wide at the top and 1 at the bottom in order to cover two keys. Or I could cover three keys in which case I think it would be 1.5 at the top and 2 on the bottom
http://www.keycapsdirect.com/pdfs/DCSFamily.pdf shows one J shaped key as 1.5 x 2 x 0.75 x 1 the only question about this one is will the 0.75 fit
In the meantime I am http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/key ... t3794.html pondering whether to bump this thread or not to
what about "sitting a normal enter key from a crappy rubberdome " onto a standard tipro 1*1 key and gluing it or cut the stem from a standard 1*1 then glue it into position
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
ok well CeeSa told me this is how kbdfr did it: The mod (enter part) for kbdfr is not only the switch/pcb part. He modifies the enter keycap too. He was able to "move" the counter part of the stem. Like mods for the spacebar.
I "move" 2 switches in the row: jkl; next to the Enter Key
- unsolder all switches
- file the plate (remove 2 or 3 vertical bridges
- make new holes in the pcb for the switches
- cut connections to the old switches
- fill the old holes
- make new connections for the new switches
- solder all switches (plate incl.)
of which the ones in bold I have noo idea
I "move" 2 switches in the row: jkl; next to the Enter Key
- unsolder all switches
- file the plate (remove 2 or 3 vertical bridges
- make new holes in the pcb for the switches
- cut connections to the old switches
- fill the old holes
- make new connections for the new switches
- solder all switches (plate incl.)
of which the ones in bold I have noo idea
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
(Was very busy)
CeeSA described to you the job he made for me.
At my request he left the switches under the Enter cap untouched, instead I modded the cap to fit them:
That's quite an easy job (chop off the original stems, provide an even surface, glue new stems, done),
but of course it has to be made carefully.
CeeSA described to you the job he made for me.
At my request he left the switches under the Enter cap untouched, instead I modded the cap to fit them:
That's quite an easy job (chop off the original stems, provide an even surface, glue new stems, done),
but of course it has to be made carefully.
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- Location: uk (yorkshire)
- Main keyboard: many
- Main mouse: rat 5 modded
- Favorite switch: cherry mx black
- DT Pro Member: -
that's a lot simpler than desoldering /cutting and filing the plate etc which I think wound be beyond jond's (not that I'm putting him down)
and to be fair I never thought of doing that on my tipro or access boards or for that matter any us layout boards
now then where's my knife !!!!!
and to be fair I never thought of doing that on my tipro or access boards or for that matter any us layout boards
now then where's my knife !!!!!
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Well, of course this is not always possible.
When a switch is in the way, you just have to move it.
In MID Tipro boards (which are basically ANSI) the Enter key extends horizontally over two switches, the right one being "inactive" (i.e. having no spring) and serving as a stabilizer. So now my ISO Enter key also uses this "inactive" switch as a stabilizer, but extends vertically over two switches.
When a switch is in the way, you just have to move it.
In MID Tipro boards (which are basically ANSI) the Enter key extends horizontally over two switches, the right one being "inactive" (i.e. having no spring) and serving as a stabilizer. So now my ISO Enter key also uses this "inactive" switch as a stabilizer, but extends vertically over two switches.
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
I am completely limited to tipro based keys for the backspace, spacebar, enter button ( covering two stems). I really need some high profile keyys that will fit the staggered layout of tipro ie just two stems over a 2 standard width as opposed to one main stem and two stabalizers either side.
Does anyone know of a high profile key that could fit the backspace, spacebar and enter key for this? I spent the past 4 hours or so debating a purchase of some beautiful pbt double shots to discover that the spacebar wouldn't fit ditto the backspace and enter key.
thanks kbdfr - I will have to desolder then to remove the springs at some point it seems . The current backspace and enter keys are much too hard too press.
Does anyone know of a high profile key that could fit the backspace, spacebar and enter key for this? I spent the past 4 hours or so debating a purchase of some beautiful pbt double shots to discover that the spacebar wouldn't fit ditto the backspace and enter key.
thanks kbdfr - I will have to desolder then to remove the springs at some point it seems . The current backspace and enter keys are much too hard too press.
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
Correct me if I'm wrong - kbdfr's enter key is it 1.5ux2ux1.25ux1u
I think I am going to order from signature plastics a 1.25ux2ux1ux1u as I know that would fit on the bottom (third row of my tipro) as there is only room for a 1 unit space there. I am not sure if 0.75 would look good at all. I might order a 1.75ux2ux1ux1u aswell as I might be able to fit a 1.75u across the top but I am unsure (I think it might)
@collector of junk I am not sure what you mean by rubberdome enter key as I can't find one specifically.
What is the best way to remove the stems when doing this then, should I melt the plastic - do they have to be doubleshots etc because I am going to be doing this for my backspace aswell. Unless of course medium profile backspaces exist with two stems in the same location as two ordinary 1u keys next to each other. So far I have only seen a tipro low profile version if this.
I have found a 4 unit SA space bar from signatureplastics
I think I am going to order from signature plastics a 1.25ux2ux1ux1u as I know that would fit on the bottom (third row of my tipro) as there is only room for a 1 unit space there. I am not sure if 0.75 would look good at all. I might order a 1.75ux2ux1ux1u aswell as I might be able to fit a 1.75u across the top but I am unsure (I think it might)
@collector of junk I am not sure what you mean by rubberdome enter key as I can't find one specifically.
What is the best way to remove the stems when doing this then, should I melt the plastic - do they have to be doubleshots etc because I am going to be doing this for my backspace aswell. Unless of course medium profile backspaces exist with two stems in the same location as two ordinary 1u keys next to each other. So far I have only seen a tipro low profile version if this.
I have found a 4 unit SA space bar from signatureplastics

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- Location: uk (yorkshire)
- Main keyboard: many
- Main mouse: rat 5 modded
- Favorite switch: cherry mx black
- DT Pro Member: -
rubberdome = any cheap rubbish keyboard ie dell Microsoft ebay £1 etc that way it doesn't matter to much while "experimenting" and no you don't have to use doulbleshots any will dojond_keyhack wrote: Correct me if I'm wrong - kbdfr's enter key is it 1.5ux2ux1.25ux1u
I think I am going to order from signature plastics a 1.25ux2ux1ux1u as I know that would fit on the bottom (third row of my tipro) as there is only room for a 1 unit space there. I am not sure if 0.75 would look good at all. I might order a 1.75ux2ux1ux1u aswell as I might be able to fit a 1.75u across the top but I am unsure (I think it might)
@collector of junk I am not sure what you mean by rubberdome enter key as I can't find one specifically.
What is the best way to remove the stems when doing this then, should I melt the plastic - do they have to be doubleshots etc because I am going to be doing this for my backspace aswell. Unless of course medium profile backspaces exist with two stems in the same location as two ordinary 1u keys next to each other. So far I have only seen a tipro low profile version if this.
I have found a 4 unit SA space bar from signatureplastics
if I was going to do this modd I'd get a tipro standard 1u keycap remove the top part (with the symbol on it)
then using a dremel etc grind the stem in the enter key down until its flat inside
sand the tipro stem a bit to take the glue a bit better then glue then to the enter key
hope I've explained it ok easier for me to do than explain !!!!!
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
This is how I do it:
http://deskthority.net/w-a-n-t-t-o-b-u- ... t1956.html
It is not a good idea to use only a stem without at least part of the top of the key it has been taken from,
because the surface to be glued to the keycap would be much too tiny.
Before seriously starting, be sure to always have a try with the exact same components (keycap, glue and stem) you are going to use: not any type of glue will work with every kind of plastic.
http://deskthority.net/w-a-n-t-t-o-b-u- ... t1956.html
It is not a good idea to use only a stem without at least part of the top of the key it has been taken from,
because the surface to be glued to the keycap would be much too tiny.
Before seriously starting, be sure to always have a try with the exact same components (keycap, glue and stem) you are going to use: not any type of glue will work with every kind of plastic.
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- Location: England
- Main keyboard: tipro free
- Main mouse: logitech g600
- Favorite switch: cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
I think that maybe signature plastics can move the stem mount to cater for the location of the tipro mounts. I am a little confused so I made this The 1.5u backspace key lines up with the 1u key as shown in the smaller picture. So my thought is to adjust the centre stem on the 1.25u , 0.094units to the right so that when it flips over it also measures up to the right perfectly. noting that sig plastics dont offer the 1.5u top with a 1 unit bottom iso enter.
The picture also shows what I am going to specify in the order code as to my backspace key.

I'm just confused how to specify how I want the stem of the 1.25u as centre 0.625+0.094 = 0.719units as they dont offer it. Also not offered is 1.106units right or 0.144units from right :s Or if I just specify right 0.094units. I also don't know how to order in two dimensions and if they can do this but I will just email them.
For the backspace I know it is option T and option 4
http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?titl ... rt_Numbers

The picture also shows what I am going to specify in the order code as to my backspace key.

I'm just confused how to specify how I want the stem of the 1.25u as centre 0.625+0.094 = 0.719units as they dont offer it. Also not offered is 1.106units right or 0.144units from right :s Or if I just specify right 0.094units. I also don't know how to order in two dimensions and if they can do this but I will just email them.
For the backspace I know it is option T and option 4
http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?titl ... rt_Numbers
