IBM ssk - odd shift key behaviour

[seebart]

Madhias has a good tutorial on this:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/ibm- ... t9169.html

[Mal-2]

Search for "IBM Model M bolt mod" and have a look at how it's done. These are single ended rivets, if that's a sensible term, that are essentially parts of the barrel frame. It's been a while since I made a good old messy bolt mod, so I forget whether the rivets are technically separate plastic, sunk into the frame like molten plastic bolts. But whatever, they have just one end and one hole to work with. Otherwise, Model Ms would be as nice to work with as Model Fs. Clearly not IBM's intention!

Madhias has a good tutorial on this:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/ibm- ... t9169.html

This is pretty clear, thank you. Apparently Model Ms were not built to be used for slaying zombies and then returned to active service, as the original XT keyboard seemed to be. I can't say I miss the utterly baffling layout of the right side of an XT keyboard, but I sure liked the way they felt, and sometimes wish they'd kept the function keys on the left (although finding a spot for F11 and F12 would be a problem).

[fohat]

This is pretty clear, thank you.

I sure liked the way they felt, and sometimes wish they'd kept the function keys on the left (although finding a spot for F11 and F12 would be a problem).

The term "rivet" was confusing to me at first, but it is quicker and easier than "mushroom-head-like melted-over plastic stalk"

I love the function keys on the left, they are closer and easier to hit than picking something out of the middle of a long straight row.

There are several of them that I never use - I set the old F9 to be F11 and the old F10 to be Windows.

There are mods to make Model Fs much closer to the ANSI layout, if you can work with your hands:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48 ... msg1034243

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48 ... msg1628216

[ShivaYash]

Hello, will stabilisers designed for keys that span two rows, fit my right shift key? The one I have been told is available was sourced from Unicomp and is black in colour. Are they all the same? Many thanks. Ps. I am sure Mu knows the answer!

[Muirium]

Inserts come in two varieties: horizontal and vertical. Your SSK only needs horizontal inserts (there is no numpad Enter key or ISO Return). And horizontal inserts have the hole symmetrically placed in the centre. Vertical inserts are off-centre when you look down them.

The colours, well, I'm sure they meant something at the time! But I've seen more variety than is sensible to rely on.

[fohat]

Hello, will stabilisers designed for keys that span two rows, fit my right shift key? The one I have been told is available was sourced from Unicomp and is black in colour.

I believe that Unicomp sells the centered ones in white and the off-center ones in black.

Horizontal long keys require the "centered" type. Be sure that they are oriented vertically with the "elbow-room" on each side.

[ShivaYash]

Just bit the bullet and spend £37 on a few bits from UNICOMP - I really hope this resolved the issue for me.

[fohat]

Here is the alignment you need to use:

[ShivaYash]

Yep - got it. Ta.

[orihalcon]

If they stick, take out the stabilizer and the key and clean both of them well in soapy water or with isopropyl alcohol. Next step is if it still sticks, add powdered graphite or a light coating of oil at the interface to keep things smooth.

[ShivaYash]

If they stick, take out the stabilizer and the key and clean both of them well in soapy water or with isopropyl alcohol. Next step is if it still sticks, add powdered graphite or a light coating of oil at the interface to keep things smooth.

Hello, funny how no one had mentioned is earlier. I had cleaned them in situ, but of course not with WATER. Having just taken them all out and washed and dried with warm soap water, yes that is right, just plain old WATER, the right hand side shift, the problem child, feels incredibly smooth and SOLID! I am WRITING IN CAPS as I am TESTING THE RIGHT SHIFT KEY, and usually for caps, I use the LEFT key.

The right shift is only really used for ? : " in my day to DAY WRITING WORK.

It still sometimes, rarely thought in my 10 minutes of testing, doesn't like to the struck right of centre, but is a HUGE improvement. Perhaps I should cancel my expensive UNICOMP order. I absolutely hate paying £££ postage unnecessarily.

With best and MANY THANKS INDEED. Until the next time I guess. I WILL do a partial BOLT/ SCREW mod in due course, especially under the RIGHT SHIFT key area, just to sure it up. I would like to simply drill a small sized screw into the plastic stem left, when the squashed rivet 'mushroom' head breaks. Has anyone experience of doing this?

With best,

[fohat]

I would like to simply drill a small sized screw into the plastic stem left, when the squashed rivet 'mushroom' head breaks. Has anyone experience of doing this?

That is how both 1_avid_collector and ezrahilyer do it, with considerable success.

If you use the right machine screw (M2 x 6mm or 8mm) with a slightly undersized hole (1.5mm) then the screw threads will probably cut their own way in.

[chzel]

M2 (machine thread) is too fine to cut it's own threads and hold.
The ones that Madhias suggests in his guide are best for this (they are self-tapping by design) and works well even in a 2.5mm hole (had to do this for the bottom row in my Greek Model M after I realized I couldn't really use bolt+nut !)

[ShivaYash]

M2 (machine thread) is too fine to cut it's own threads and hold.
The ones that Madhias suggests in his guide are best for this (they are self-tapping by design) and works well even in a 2.5mm hole (had to do this for the bottom row in my Greek Model M after I realized I couldn't really use bolt+nut !)

What size does he suggest? Links to online stores would be very handy.
Do you have photos of your handiwork on the Greece example?

On a related note, I have cancelled my UNICOMP order, as I think washing the stabilisers have made the world of difference, so much so that I don't need to spend £37 on bits. I'm of course disappointed not to be getting RBG modifiers, but the next time I go State-side, I'll be sure to put in an express order.

The right shift key still feels different to the others, but it is the largest key on my board, and I think pure physics means it WILL sound different, no matter what.

Are there ANY OTHER SSK users who have experience, what I have? Would be interested to hear from you if so.

With best,

SY

[Muirium]

I'm of course disappointed not to be getting RBG modifiers, but the next time I go State-side, I'll be sure to put in an express order.

Thanks for reminding me. I could use a few Unicomp blanks myself. I'm over there in spring.

[ShivaYash]

I'm of course disappointed not to be getting RBG modifiers, but the next time I go State-side, I'll be sure to put in an express order.

Thanks for reminding me. I could use a few Unicomp blanks myself. I'm over there in spring.

HAHA! Is that an offer 'taking orders' kind sir?

[chzel]

What size does he suggest? Links to online stores would be very handy.
Do you have photos of your handiwork on the Greece example?

From Madhias' post:


The Greek Model M is something I really need to photograph, but I keep putting it off for no particular reason!
I'll try to document it this week!

[ShivaYash]

What size does he suggest? Links to online stores would be very handy.
Do you have photos of your handiwork on the Greece example?

From Madhias' post:


The Greek Model M is something I really need to photograph, but I keep putting it off for no particular reason!
I'll try to document it this week!

Lovely... so these just 'screw straight in', with the appropriate pilot hole?
Is the pilot hole best done with a hand drill?

[ShivaYash]

I have found the ones I need but in black... is there any difference?
If someone reads German, I'd appreciate your input.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Blechschra ... 0806628201

With best wishes,

[chzel]

Yes, you drill a 1.5mm pilot hole all the way through, and screw them in as tight as needed (not too tight!)
Drilling is best done with a drill press, but freehand is fine if you have steady hand!

Those you found are from the same shop, and are the same type and size but not stainless! They have a black oxide coating that eventually will get some surface rust especially in humid climates (UK anyone?).

[ShivaYash]

Yes, you drill a 1.5mm pilot hole all the way through, and screw them in as tight as needed (not too tight!)
Drilling is best done with a drill press, but freehand is fine if you have steady hand!

Those you found are from the same shop, and are the same type and size but not stainless! They have a black oxide coating that eventually will get some surface rust especially in humid climates (UK anyone?).

Righto, I have a friend, I'll try and set something up. So the pilot hole that I must make, and drill all the way through, should I remove the keyboard membrane and pivots etc? I.e, have a totally clear barrel plate, as I wish to do just a trial run, simply open the case, drill a few pilot holes and insert screws, on an ad hoc basis?

Are these the SS ones? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-Stuck-DIN- ... 3c99b08804

[chzel]

If you were doing a full bolt mod, you'd want a bare barrel plate.
You can do a partial bolt mod, to tend to specific problem areas, but you need to be extra careful not to get any debris from drilling inside the "sandwich". For the "spot bolt mod" you will open the case, remove caps around the problem area, get rid of the rivet and as much of the "stalk" as possible, drill the pilot hole, insert screw and close up.

Yes, those are the SS ones!

[ShivaYash]

If you were doing a full bolt mod, you'd want a bare barrel plate.
You can do a partial bolt mod, to tend to specific problem areas, but you need to be extra careful not to get any debris from drilling inside the "sandwich". For the "spot bolt mod" you will open the case, remove caps around the problem area, get rid of the rivet and as much of the "stalk" as possible, drill the pilot hole, insert screw and close up.

Yes, those are the SS ones!

Righto... I'll pull the trigger and order. The chances of 'fucking it up' are quite high, and if I do, my beloved board will be dead, right?

THANKS SO MUCH.

[Muirium]

You can only open up the plates to expose the membranes etc. by snapping ALL the rivets first. That's full bolt bot country. You're better off trying a partial one first, like Chzel describes, in just the right places.

It's a stressful procedure, I bet. Because there is indeed a chance that a mistake will ruin your SSK. I'd see about getting someone experienced to do the job instead. (Not me. I've done one bolt mod, and it wasn't pretty. Just a 122 key M fortunately.)

[scottc]

I've only ever done 0.5 bolt mods. I never finished it...

[ShivaYash]

I've only ever done 0.5 bolt mods. I never finished it...

What's that?

[chzel]

Righto... I'll pull the trigger and order. The chances of 'fucking it up' are quite high, and if I do, my beloved board will be dead, right?
THANKS SO MUCH.

The chances of "fucking it up all the way to death" are pretty slim!
If you go the partial mod route, worst case scenario is that you get a piece of plastic in the "sandwich" and it interferes with the operation of the board. In that case you do a full bolt mod and you are fine!
Only real risk is drilling the holes at an angle so far off from 90 degrees that you drill through a barrel. Keep it reasonably centered in the hole and close to perpendicular and take it easy!

[Muirium]

Yeah, it's definitely doable. I'd be sweating and anxious if I was doing it for the first time to my one and only SSK, though. (Pro tip: have more SSKs.)

I've only ever done 0.5 bolt mods. I never finished it...

What's that?

That's a man of my own heart. Somewhere, a Model M lies in pieces, while Scott wandered off! It's a big old job. Mine took a while too. The partial bolt mod Chzel is talking about is easily 20x less work.

[scottc]

I've only ever done 0.5 bolt mods. I never finished it...

What's that?

I gave up halfway through my first bolt mod. I got too pissed off with it and shortly after got an F AT and SSK so didn't care about it anymore!

[fohat]

For the "spot bolt mod" you will open the case, remove caps around the problem area, get rid of the rivet and as much of the "stalk" as possible, drill the pilot hole, insert screw and close up.

Are you doing this from the metal plate side?

Is there any actual reason to remove the caps?

Don't you want to shave off the "rivet head" and LEAVE as much of the "stalk" as possible?