I'm trying to build a neutrino case, I planned on getting one milled from acrylic, but ehh, it will cost like 85€ and it won't be 100% "homemade" as well, and also I don't want to put 85€ on something that I won't even be using a lot probably (The HHKB is pretty much perfect for me, I just wanted to make a neutrino for the project value.)
I was planning on making case/bottom lightning, so I assume plexiglass would work? I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience/tips on working with it/is it even a good idea?
Plexiglass for a keyboard case?
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salsaverde
- Main keyboard: The Black Rainbow
- Main mouse: G600
- Favorite switch: Gateron Yellow
- DT Pro Member: -
I think Plexiglas is just a name brand for acrylic glass. It's good to get it laser-cut, but I found it difficult to work with by hand.
I used plexiglass to close the bottom of a case on one of my builds so I could show off the internals. It chipped on the cutting edge. It gets fingerprints. It scratches. Dust sticks to it on the inside.
On the plus side, it's very light and cheap.
I used plexiglass to close the bottom of a case on one of my builds so I could show off the internals. It chipped on the cutting edge. It gets fingerprints. It scratches. Dust sticks to it on the inside.
On the plus side, it's very light and cheap.
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Wilkie
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: KUL ES-87 MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
salsaverde is correct, Plexiglas is just a brand name, it is acrylic (PMMA). I have a little non-keyboard experience working with acrylic laser cut through Ponoko.
The most important thing to keep in mind there, and perhaps elsewhere, is that the thickness of sheets is only approximate. The stated thickness usually includes +-X%, and there can be variance between different sheets. That can be important for some designs.
I found that cuts of thicker sheets left some burrs on the edges -- I was able to remove them with a rotary tool (like a Dremel, I used a cheap version from Harbor Freight), but that caused a little discoloration.
For joining pieces, I used Weld-On #4. After a little practice on scraps, it worked quite well. If you are joining pieces with a solvent like that, try to do it in a non-visible area, because there is a good chance you will get bubbles. There are different ways to apply the solvent, depending on where you need it, but what worked for me was applying with the head of a nail. Read about application and watch videos showing different techniques. Of course, you might instead use fasteners to join pieces, but I don't have experience with that.
The most important thing to keep in mind there, and perhaps elsewhere, is that the thickness of sheets is only approximate. The stated thickness usually includes +-X%, and there can be variance between different sheets. That can be important for some designs.
I found that cuts of thicker sheets left some burrs on the edges -- I was able to remove them with a rotary tool (like a Dremel, I used a cheap version from Harbor Freight), but that caused a little discoloration.
For joining pieces, I used Weld-On #4. After a little practice on scraps, it worked quite well. If you are joining pieces with a solvent like that, try to do it in a non-visible area, because there is a good chance you will get bubbles. There are different ways to apply the solvent, depending on where you need it, but what worked for me was applying with the head of a nail. Read about application and watch videos showing different techniques. Of course, you might instead use fasteners to join pieces, but I don't have experience with that.
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burn1nsun
- Location: Estonia
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 1
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder 2013
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I completely forgot that I made this thread, but yes I actually noticed that plexiglass is indeed acrylic, oops.
But Yeah I kind of want to make a wooden case, with 0.5cm thick layer of acrylic with rgb lightning coming through it in the middle of it, would be pretty neat in my opinion.
But Yeah I kind of want to make a wooden case, with 0.5cm thick layer of acrylic with rgb lightning coming through it in the middle of it, would be pretty neat in my opinion.
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courtesi
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm not sure if its plexiglass/acrylic - but check out the I-Rocks IK6; it's a membrane keyboard with what looks like that material. If so, they have figured out a way to mass produce. It's supposed to dampen the sound a bit.
The translator calls it "glass" but I find it hard to believe given the price. But it is made in China so who knows.
The translator calls it "glass" but I find it hard to believe given the price. But it is made in China so who knows.