Model M LED overlay removal and affixing

yangdaddy · 25 Jul 2016, 07:15

I have a pretty broken up case (top and bottom) that I want to remove the IBM badge and LED overlay from. The only procedure I have found is fohat's suggestion of using lighter fluid for removal, but I'm a little nervous to try it that way and wanted to ask if anyone had any other methods that worked for them? And how should I affix the badge and overlay? rubber cement?
Thanks a bunch in advance!

fohat · 26 Jul 2016, 02:15

yangdaddy wrote: I have a pretty broken up case (top and bottom) that I want to remove the IBM badge and LED overlay from. The only procedure I have found is fohat's suggestion of using lighter fluid for removal, but I'm a little nervous to try it that way and wanted to ask if anyone had any other methods that worked for them? And how should I affix the badge and overlay? rubber cement?
Thanks a bunch in advance!

The greater danger in using naptha is possible damage to the case. If you are trashing the case, the stickers will probably be more forgiving. Your greatest problem, in any case, is getting started - picking up that first bit is where you risk dinging a corner or an edge.

XMIT · 26 Jul 2016, 03:30

I just hit it with a hair dryer for two minutes and pick it off using a non-metallic nylon stick or maybe a guitar pick or something similar.

In many cases you can re-use the existing glue but you might also consider double stick tape or a contact cement like Super 77.

(yangdady, please add your country of residence to your profile.)

yangdaddy · 26 Jul 2016, 06:35

Thank you both very much for the advice. I am definitely concerned about cracking the emblem while lifting it off. I think I will try the hair dryer method at first and have some naptha at the ready.

I bought a Model M from a fella in Alaska and he said that it was unused. Unfortunately, it had several long cracks and both posts that secure the inner plate were broken off, however the steel plate and springs are the shiniest, newest looking ones I have ever come across. I'm guessing the extreme cold contributed to the damage but seems to have inhibited rust at least.

I just bought an Industrial case from Unicomp and am planning to pop the inner assembly in there along with the Oshpark badge, and the LED overlay from the old case.

Apologies for being a little clueless. I figured out how to add country and just did so. Thanks again. I've read so many of your posts and have gleaned so much from both of you. I am working on lurking less and contributing more.

Cheers!

wobbled · 26 Jul 2016, 23:13

I did this recently, just heat the badge up for a few seconds with a hair dryer and cut underneath it carefully with a sharp thin blade. If it's not staying off for long there should be more than enough adhesive left on the badge to stick it back on to another case. Same deal with the LED overlay. If not just use a dab of hot glue.

rootwyrm · 26 Jul 2016, 23:56

I don't know what the exact adhesive on the label is, but yes, the hair dryer method is best. Remove using a SMOOTH plastic guitar pick (textured stuff like Dunlop Tortoise, does badness) or credit card; it needs to be flexible. The LED window itself is fairly resistant to tearing, but highly susceptible to warping, shrinking, and discoloration.

In ANY instance where you are replacing the badge or window, I recommend removing ALL adhesive on the case using isopropyl alcohol and naptha, and all adhesive on the label using naptha alone. Prep THOROUGHLY before applying any new adhesives - that means clean it, wipe it down, wipe it down again, wipe it down with a tack cloth, clean again, wipe it down with a lint-free cloth, repeat the clean, repeat the lint-free cloth, THEN apply.
For badges I usually use cyanoacrylate (Superglue) and for LED windows I use 3M 5 mil double-sided tape applied to the whole surface area at the case side. The mil is the important part; that's how thick the tape itself is. Depending on the adhesive used at the factory, 5mil may result in a 'recessed' look. Sometimes they would just slather the glue on. But really anything non-padded 15mil and under should be fine.

yangdaddy · 27 Jul 2016, 03:37

Aw man! This is great info!

Thank you kindly everyone!

XMIT · 27 Jul 2016, 04:40

To add to rootwyrm's excellent comments: as a final prep step I will sometimes do a final wash with distilled water and allow to air dry (maybe with some help from the hair dryer). I'll also wear gloves if I really want to keep something dirt and dust free (I prefer nitrile gloves, cheap and readily available, but be warned that their acetone resistance is poor).

With 91% isopropyl alcohol (available at most drug stores around here) I don't often need to use naptha or any other solvent. When I do it's usually acetone.

Not that you need to do this for the Model M necessarily, but in general, test any solvents with a cotton swab in an inconspicuous area before using them on plastics, especially acetone which is pretty aggressive against many plastics.

Good luck! Please share some photos of the finished result.

I wonder if Unicomp has any more Industrial cases kicking around...

yangdaddy · 27 Jul 2016, 06:40

Wow, I love how rigorous you all are. I thought I was, but y'all put me to shame. Happy to learn these techniques. I'll definitely post pictures of the end result. Thank you much XMIT.

And I saw someone else post about the Industrial cases on DT. I think they still have a few.

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942

rootwyrm · 27 Jul 2016, 16:01

XMIT wrote: With 91% isopropyl alcohol (available at most drug stores around here) I don't often need to use naptha or any other solvent. When I do it's usually acetone.

I usually use 95%+ denatured alcohol, actually. The remaining 5% is usually methanol; there's no water content. Any remaining water in the pebbled surfaces can cause problems down the line, I've found. I still hit things up with additional passes though, because I'm a perfectionist. (I specialize in M13's. Of course I am.)

XMIT wrote: Good luck! Please share some photos of the finished result. I wonder if Unicomp has any more Industrial cases kicking around...

Last I checked, sadly, no. Also the same for M13 and the tooling is long gone. (The EnduraPro is new tooling.) I'm about ready to just call up one of the local job shops and see how much it would cost to machine a small run of M13 case halves.

XMIT · 27 Jul 2016, 17:42

rootwyrm wrote:
XMIT wrote: Good luck! Please share some photos of the finished result. I wonder if Unicomp has any more Industrial cases kicking around...
Last I checked, sadly, no. Also the same for M13 and the tooling is long gone. (The EnduraPro is new tooling.) I'm about ready to just call up one of the local job shops and see how much it would cost to machine a small run of M13 case halves.

Of course. Well fortunately we can get pretty close with vinyl dye or Cerakote.

photos-f62/cerakote-ceramic-powder-coat ... 11573.html

FWIW, I did remove the LED cover from the center board for coating. It's all buttoned up now, just waiting on a new IBM badge from PCBway as the finishing touch. (If anyone has one please send it my way! Otherwise I'll order some more.)