Leading Edge DC-3014 SKCM Blue Alps -- Opinions?
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Recently, I was fortunate in being able to snag a Leading Edge DC-3014 with SKCM blue Alps switches, like the one pictured in the DT wiki:
wiki/File:Leading_edge_dc-3014.jpg
For many of us, this keyboard is like a favorable alignment of the planets, as it brings together a number of desired features in a single keyboard such as a US ANSI layout, SKCM blue Alps switches, doubleshot keycaps, and perhaps a reasonably good build quality. Moreover, I would add that I like the overall understated appearance of the board, including the simple triangular Leading Edge logo.
However, while spending a bit of time with the keyboard shortly after unpacking it from its shipping container, I am somewhat underwhelmed and disappointed.
First, although the board looks fairly clean and the plate looks free of corrosion (based on removing just a few keycaps so far), my initial testing was marred by finding two unresponsive keys and some intermittent chattering on a few keys. I opened the seemingly dead keys and found that they would register by carefully pushing the contact leaf against the switchplate using a plastic spudger tool. This appears to be the same problem that I had recently with one of the white Alps switches in a Northgate Omnikey 101, and so I am hopeful that the errant switches might be brought back in line by careful cleaning.
Second, the general impression that I gained from typing on the board was not as positive as that from typing on a Northgate Omnikey 101 with SKCM white Alps switches. It is difficult to separate the contribution of the switches to the overall typing experience, and the somewhat hollow sound of the DC-3014 detracts from the sense of quality, whereas the solid sound of the Northgate helps create an aura of superior craftsmanship. Moreover, some prodding and tapping on the case of the DC-3014 evokes some rattles and creaks, but the same manipulations on the Northgate simply reinforce the sensation of structural rigidity.
I am hoping that the negatives will tend to get erased by doing a bit of restoration, including cleaning and lubing the switches and stabilizers, deadening the spacebar, and perhaps painting the case and replacing the ABS keycaps with PBT.
In the meantime, I am interested in knowing the opinions of others about the LE DC-3014 and any suggestions you might have to ensure a positive outcome from some restoration efforts. Perhaps some of you might even suggest (gasp!) that I ought to harvest the best of the blue Alps switches and transplant them into another existing keyboard or a custom build.
wiki/File:Leading_edge_dc-3014.jpg
For many of us, this keyboard is like a favorable alignment of the planets, as it brings together a number of desired features in a single keyboard such as a US ANSI layout, SKCM blue Alps switches, doubleshot keycaps, and perhaps a reasonably good build quality. Moreover, I would add that I like the overall understated appearance of the board, including the simple triangular Leading Edge logo.
However, while spending a bit of time with the keyboard shortly after unpacking it from its shipping container, I am somewhat underwhelmed and disappointed.
First, although the board looks fairly clean and the plate looks free of corrosion (based on removing just a few keycaps so far), my initial testing was marred by finding two unresponsive keys and some intermittent chattering on a few keys. I opened the seemingly dead keys and found that they would register by carefully pushing the contact leaf against the switchplate using a plastic spudger tool. This appears to be the same problem that I had recently with one of the white Alps switches in a Northgate Omnikey 101, and so I am hopeful that the errant switches might be brought back in line by careful cleaning.
Second, the general impression that I gained from typing on the board was not as positive as that from typing on a Northgate Omnikey 101 with SKCM white Alps switches. It is difficult to separate the contribution of the switches to the overall typing experience, and the somewhat hollow sound of the DC-3014 detracts from the sense of quality, whereas the solid sound of the Northgate helps create an aura of superior craftsmanship. Moreover, some prodding and tapping on the case of the DC-3014 evokes some rattles and creaks, but the same manipulations on the Northgate simply reinforce the sensation of structural rigidity.
I am hoping that the negatives will tend to get erased by doing a bit of restoration, including cleaning and lubing the switches and stabilizers, deadening the spacebar, and perhaps painting the case and replacing the ABS keycaps with PBT.
In the meantime, I am interested in knowing the opinions of others about the LE DC-3014 and any suggestions you might have to ensure a positive outcome from some restoration efforts. Perhaps some of you might even suggest (gasp!) that I ought to harvest the best of the blue Alps switches and transplant them into another existing keyboard or a custom build.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Don't do that!
A straight-ANSI blue Alps keyboard is truly a Holy Grail for a lot of people. I have ruthlessly butchered more than one DC2014 for parts, but that layout is simply a non-starter for me, and a lot of other people.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Yeah, I certainly hesitated before mentioning the harvesting option, but I wanted to open up the discussion to all possibilities. I do tend to approach keyboard medicine with a Hippocratic approach -- "First, do no harm."
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
Thanks for showing off my former keyboard. 
It's a matter of opinion, frankly. The hollow sound you're talking about is sought after by many people.
You could get a DC-2014 to harvest and much, much more from selling it.

It's a matter of opinion, frankly. The hollow sound you're talking about is sought after by many people.
You could get a DC-2014 to harvest and much, much more from selling it.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@ohaimark: Yes, likewise, the celebrated "thock" of the HHKB is partly due to the hollow plastic case. I suspect that if I could correct the bad behavior of a few of the switches in the DC-3014, I could start to appreciate the hollow sound of the DC-3014.
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I strongly recommend keeping it intact, if only so that a Korean collector will buy it. Do check the tightness of the bottom screws, too. I don't remember any creak being present in mine.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
The creak in mine is elicited by pressing down on the center of the right-hand edge of the keyboard case.
Yes, I am inclined to keep the keyboard intact.
Yes, I am inclined to keep the keyboard intact.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
You are NOT going to take this apart.
It's not easy to compare this with an OmniKey. Moreover, white Alps span several generations of changes. My own OmniKey Ultra comes with very early white Alps that still have the gold springs and whatnot; those feel and sound exceptionally nice, almost as good as blue Alps. But still not quite AS good.
If you're dealing with early white Alps especially, then the difference between them will be less than the difference in condition, which, as we all know, is of supreme importance with Alps. It'd be cool if I could assess the feel and condition of the keyboards you mention, although of course that's not really practically possible :p . It IS one of the reasons why I'd love to show other people how great these can be when in NOS condition though, so hopefully there will be a UK meetup before I leave.
Of course, if you put a lot of value on the build quality of the board itself, it's hard to be impressed by something other than an OmniKey. The build quality of those keyboards is simply exceptional, it's without contest the best Alps chassis that there is. The DC-3014, as other people have mentioned, of course has the advantage of a modern layout.
It's not easy to compare this with an OmniKey. Moreover, white Alps span several generations of changes. My own OmniKey Ultra comes with very early white Alps that still have the gold springs and whatnot; those feel and sound exceptionally nice, almost as good as blue Alps. But still not quite AS good.
If you're dealing with early white Alps especially, then the difference between them will be less than the difference in condition, which, as we all know, is of supreme importance with Alps. It'd be cool if I could assess the feel and condition of the keyboards you mention, although of course that's not really practically possible :p . It IS one of the reasons why I'd love to show other people how great these can be when in NOS condition though, so hopefully there will be a UK meetup before I leave.
Of course, if you put a lot of value on the build quality of the board itself, it's hard to be impressed by something other than an OmniKey. The build quality of those keyboards is simply exceptional, it's without contest the best Alps chassis that there is. The DC-3014, as other people have mentioned, of course has the advantage of a modern layout.
- balotz
- Main keyboard: Leading Edge SKM-1030
- Favorite switch: Futaba clicky (yes really)
- DT Pro Member: -
I had a similar problem with a few intermittently functioning switches on my (Packard Bell) blue alps board. I opened each offending switch and sprayed WD40 contact cleaner (note: this is not at all similar to the standard "WD40") into the contact mechanism, and they are now fine. I even cleaned one of the sliders this way, as the key was binding in one corner.
I can't speak as to the DC-3014, but I did replace the doubleshot ABS caps on my Packard Bell with PBT equivalents from an SGI granite. This only really served to make the bottoming out sound louder than before..
I can't speak as to the DC-3014, but I did replace the doubleshot ABS caps on my Packard Bell with PBT equivalents from an SGI granite. This only really served to make the bottoming out sound louder than before..
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
A bit of devils advocate:
I don't see whats so bad about taking it apart as long as it can go back together.
I would do a direct switch swap with the northgate with an ultrasonic clean and lube along the way.
Its easy enough to put back if you ever want to sell it on , and you have the added bonus of being able to treat and paint the plate ( in close to original colour of corse ) for long lasting service
.
It does not take long to desolder 100 switches if you have a proper desoldering tool, and lets face it you can replace the crappy lead free solder with real lead solder along the way
I don't see whats so bad about taking it apart as long as it can go back together.
I would do a direct switch swap with the northgate with an ultrasonic clean and lube along the way.
Its easy enough to put back if you ever want to sell it on , and you have the added bonus of being able to treat and paint the plate ( in close to original colour of corse ) for long lasting service

It does not take long to desolder 100 switches if you have a proper desoldering tool, and lets face it you can replace the crappy lead free solder with real lead solder along the way

- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
My experience is that Northgates are the most finicky and tricky boards to de-solder, for some reason the pads seem inordinately fragile, even though they aren't usually too bad about having bent-over pins.
And they are probably old enough to have old-fashioned lead solder already.
- Attachments
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- Omnikey-PCB-rollover.jpg (341.51 KiB) Viewed 6135 times
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
What does "BBC" on the PCB stand for? I presume it's not the British Broadcasting Corporation.
- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
My experience from desoldering switches from an Omnikey is "it could be worse". Yes, many of them have bent pins, and the pads are so easy to break. However, the pins are always bent to the side opposite of the trace, so even the pad breaks there, it's not a big deal. At least, that was the case with mine. However, on my Dell AT101W, _all_ switches have bent pins. I don't know if they are also bent in the way to minimise damage, because I shudder at just the thought of having to desolder switches from it.
And while on subject of Northgate PCBs, it is one sided, and it's top looks really beautiful, with all the outlines for switches, specs for resistors and orientation marks for diodes printed.
On topic of DC-3014, when I started my descent into Alps rabbit hole, I thought that was THE keyboard (version with blue switches of course). It is an ANSI board with SKCM blues, and a really clean and elegant design. In the meantime, I re-focused
on early focus boards. FK-747 would be almost perfect, were it not for small backspace and BAE. It's closest to a vintage TKL, has F-keys on left side, and it should have that Northgate feel.
And while on subject of Northgate PCBs, it is one sided, and it's top looks really beautiful, with all the outlines for switches, specs for resistors and orientation marks for diodes printed.
On topic of DC-3014, when I started my descent into Alps rabbit hole, I thought that was THE keyboard (version with blue switches of course). It is an ANSI board with SKCM blues, and a really clean and elegant design. In the meantime, I re-focused

- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
While I do intend to keep the DC-3014 intact and not use it as a donor for blue Alps switches, I believe that its appearance could be improved by doing a professional-level job at painting the case, and I would then be more inclined to put it into active use. I recall when Snoopy powder-coated his Kishsaver in matte black (RAL 7021), this was greeted with fairly universal praise from our community. So, would it be a sin to paint the case of the DC-3014?
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I wouldn't be opposed, but I would consider two things:
1) The elegant, almost aquatic design won't lend itself well to most colors.
2) The logo is beautifully contrasted by beige -- I think that most colors will reduce the beauty stemming from that.
All that considered, I recommend playing with different options in photoshop/comparing paint swatches to the logo in real life to determine what might work for it.
I do, however, think that you could add an accent of color by painting the plate. I'd go with a blue several shades lighter than that of the logo. THAT, in my opinion, would be an exceptional way to bring life to an otherwise austere 'board.
1) The elegant, almost aquatic design won't lend itself well to most colors.
2) The logo is beautifully contrasted by beige -- I think that most colors will reduce the beauty stemming from that.
All that considered, I recommend playing with different options in photoshop/comparing paint swatches to the logo in real life to determine what might work for it.
I do, however, think that you could add an accent of color by painting the plate. I'd go with a blue several shades lighter than that of the logo. THAT, in my opinion, would be an exceptional way to bring life to an otherwise austere 'board.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@ohaimark: Thanks for the moral support and the pointers. I really appreciate guidance on colors, as my vision is a bit "color challenged". Nevertheless, I know what I like, and this usually results in color combinations that others like as well. However, to get there, I will try to follow your suggestions about using photoshop and comparing paint chips with the real-life LE logo.
Regarding painting the case, it appears that there are not many color choices among the so-called vinyl dyes, which I have found to work very well for painting plastic keyboard cases. The situation is very different for metal coatings -- there are many color choices and types of coatings that will work for the metal plate. However, at this juncture, I am hoping that I can restore all the existing switches by careful cleaning. If so, I do not intend to desolder switches, which I would do if I were to paint the plate.
Regarding painting the case, it appears that there are not many color choices among the so-called vinyl dyes, which I have found to work very well for painting plastic keyboard cases. The situation is very different for metal coatings -- there are many color choices and types of coatings that will work for the metal plate. However, at this juncture, I am hoping that I can restore all the existing switches by careful cleaning. If so, I do not intend to desolder switches, which I would do if I were to paint the plate.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Yes, there is an authorized Cerakote shop in my town, and I have spoken with them about keyboard cases. I got the impression that Cerakote could work on a robust plastic case like on the top shell of an IBM XT, but possibly not on what appears to be softer plastic such as that in the DC-3014 case. However, I am open to other suggestions about this.
I know that many folks like the Industrial Gray that appeared on some IBM keyboards, but I am not at all fond of most grays, including those of many modifier keycaps on vintage keyboards. Generally, I prefer dark (e.g., black and dark hunter/forest green) and warm colors (e.g., burgundy red) rather than light and cool colors, although I have seen some dark cool colors that aren't bad such as some dark blues. For me, gray needs to be almost black to be tolerable (e.g., charcoal gray or graphite). On the other hand, I sometimes like a bare metal look, such as brushed aluminum or stainless steel.
I know that many folks like the Industrial Gray that appeared on some IBM keyboards, but I am not at all fond of most grays, including those of many modifier keycaps on vintage keyboards. Generally, I prefer dark (e.g., black and dark hunter/forest green) and warm colors (e.g., burgundy red) rather than light and cool colors, although I have seen some dark cool colors that aren't bad such as some dark blues. For me, gray needs to be almost black to be tolerable (e.g., charcoal gray or graphite). On the other hand, I sometimes like a bare metal look, such as brushed aluminum or stainless steel.
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
I think that darker shades of grey, reaching all the way down into black, would work nicely too. Green is a no-go. Perhaps an *exceptionally* dark blue could work.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Heheheh, I must've desoldered a good 10 AT102W boards with the worst soldering iron in history and a simple solder sucker. No wick or soldering station or nothing, I just use a soup bowl to suspend the iron over. After the first one you do it's not that terriblealh84001 wrote: My experience from desoldering switches from an Omnikey is "it could be worse". Yes, many of them have bent pins, and the pads are so easy to break. However, the pins are always bent to the side opposite of the trace, so even the pad breaks there, it's not a big deal. At least, that was the case with mine. However, on my Dell AT101W, _all_ switches have bent pins. I don't know if they are also bent in the way to minimise damage, because I shudder at just the thought of having to desolder switches from it.
And while on subject of Northgate PCBs, it is one sided, and it's top looks really beautiful, with all the outlines for switches, specs for resistors and orientation marks for diodes printed.
On topic of DC-3014, when I started my descent into Alps rabbit hole, I thought that was THE keyboard (version with blue switches of course). It is an ANSI board with SKCM blues, and a really clean and elegant design. In the meantime, I re-focusedon early focus boards. FK-747 would be almost perfect, were it not for small backspace and BAE. It's closest to a vintage TKL, has F-keys on left side, and it should have that Northgate feel.

- E3E
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Blue, Neon Green, Striped Amber, Cream Alps, Topre
- Main mouse: Logitech, Topre
- Favorite switch: Alps, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Did you happen to pick this one up, Hypersphere?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Leading-Ed ... 7675.l2557
I noticed this one go on eBay recently.
Also, I feel as if the DC-3014 is not as solid as its predecessor, the DC-2014. One aspect I always like to point out is that the former has 6 pads that the PCB rests on in the case, molded and integral to the design of the case.
The DC-3014 only has one medium-sized pad just under the middle of the PCB, so I'd imagine it doesn't have as much of a dampening effect. I remember the DC-2014 sounding chunkier and more solid than the DC-3014.
All in all, I do quite enjoy the DC-3014, though I use PBT AT101 key caps on mine and also swapped out the cables for one from the DC-2014 I had since it was in better shape and longer to boot.
It's a pleasant keyboard, and this post is making me want to take it out again for spin.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Leading-Ed ... 7675.l2557
I noticed this one go on eBay recently.
Also, I feel as if the DC-3014 is not as solid as its predecessor, the DC-2014. One aspect I always like to point out is that the former has 6 pads that the PCB rests on in the case, molded and integral to the design of the case.
The DC-3014 only has one medium-sized pad just under the middle of the PCB, so I'd imagine it doesn't have as much of a dampening effect. I remember the DC-2014 sounding chunkier and more solid than the DC-3014.
All in all, I do quite enjoy the DC-3014, though I use PBT AT101 key caps on mine and also swapped out the cables for one from the DC-2014 I had since it was in better shape and longer to boot.
It's a pleasant keyboard, and this post is making me want to take it out again for spin.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@E3E: Yep, that's the one. I jumped on it immediately for fear that the bidding could go higher than the BIN price. When I informed the seller about the chattering on some keys and the two unresponsive switches, he was kind enough to issue a substantial refund -- a rare treat for an eBay transaction!
I also have a DC-2014. The differences you describe between the DC-2014 and DC-3014 are reminiscent of the differences between the IBM XT and the IBM AT, although the changes in the IBM design were even more pronounced, such as the steel pan on the XT vs the plastic back on the AT case.
Thus far, the only modification I have made to the DC-2014 is to install a flush-mount micro-USB connector in the back left region of the case. I prefer having a detachable cable, and I like the connector on the back rather than on the side. Because the plastic used in the cases on the DC-2014 and DC-3014 appears to be the same and the logo badges appear to display the same colors, I will probably use the DC-2014 as the guinea pig for painting the case.
I like the form factors of the DC-2014 and IBM XT keyboards, and the solidity of the XT is unmatched, except perhaps by the Northgate Omnikey 101. Typing on the DC-2014 and XT is quite fun, and I would probably do it more often if it were not for the layouts, which are sub-optimal for me.
For the moment, I have put the DC-3014 back on the shelf, and I am now typing on my non-ADB NeXT keyboard with its undamped cream Alps -- the form factor of the NeXT reminds me of the somewhat of the DC-2014, but the NeXT has a more solid feel and the layout is close to ideal.
I also have a DC-2014. The differences you describe between the DC-2014 and DC-3014 are reminiscent of the differences between the IBM XT and the IBM AT, although the changes in the IBM design were even more pronounced, such as the steel pan on the XT vs the plastic back on the AT case.
Thus far, the only modification I have made to the DC-2014 is to install a flush-mount micro-USB connector in the back left region of the case. I prefer having a detachable cable, and I like the connector on the back rather than on the side. Because the plastic used in the cases on the DC-2014 and DC-3014 appears to be the same and the logo badges appear to display the same colors, I will probably use the DC-2014 as the guinea pig for painting the case.
I like the form factors of the DC-2014 and IBM XT keyboards, and the solidity of the XT is unmatched, except perhaps by the Northgate Omnikey 101. Typing on the DC-2014 and XT is quite fun, and I would probably do it more often if it were not for the layouts, which are sub-optimal for me.
For the moment, I have put the DC-3014 back on the shelf, and I am now typing on my non-ADB NeXT keyboard with its undamped cream Alps -- the form factor of the NeXT reminds me of the somewhat of the DC-2014, but the NeXT has a more solid feel and the layout is close to ideal.
- keycap
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: '88 Model M, DFK777 SKCM Blue
- Main mouse: A paperclip and a string
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM, IBM buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I've gotten pretty good at desoldering Alps lately. The most important rule is to have patience, and make sure you use proper equipment. My favorite way to desolder folded Alps switches is to disassemble every switch until all that's left are the switch bottoms, switchplates, mounting plate and a PCB. The advantage of this method allows the switchplate to move freely, which makes separating the bent pins from the solder pads much easier. You can simply heat up both folded solder joints at the same time, separate the pins from the pcb while the solder is hot, and then you can simply desolder from there. I managed to desolder an entire Alps board with absolutely no damage to the traces in an hour or two with this method. And I can guarantee anyone that they will mess up if they're in a hurry. Nothing's more upsetting than destroying the PCB for a rare Alps keyboard, so by all means take your time.alh84001 wrote: My experience from desoldering switches from an Omnikey is "it could be worse". Yes, many of them have bent pins, and the pads are so easy to break. However, the pins are always bent to the side opposite of the trace, so even the pad breaks there, it's not a big deal. At least, that was the case with mine. However, on my Dell AT101W, _all_ switches have bent pins. I don't know if they are also bent in the way to minimise damage, because I shudder at just the thought of having to desolder switches from it.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
This is largely a cross-post, but I wanted to bring this thread up to date with some pics of the current state of my LE DC-3014 SMCM blue Alps board. The top case was painted burgundy red and the bottom case was painted flat black with Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric spray coating. The board was outfitted with dye-sub PBT alphas from an IBM 5140. The white F-keys and NumPad number keys are doubleshot ABS from a Northgate Omnikey 101. The WoB keys are Tai-Hao doubleshot ABS, and the blank black keys are ABS from Matias.
Despite the mixed origins of the keycaps, the profiles match and the colors and textures are close enough not to be jarring to the eye, especially when in actual use rather than being scrutinized in a photo. I also don't notice the difference in keycap composition when typing because most of the time I am in contact with the dye-sub PBT alpha keys. I do, however, really appreciate the dry feel of PBT when I compare this setup with another keyboard that has stock doubleshot ABS caps on all of the keys.
There is an interesting difference between the LE DC-3014 with blue Alps and the Northgate Omnikey 101 with white Alps regarding fitting them with dye-sublimated PBT keycaps from an IBM 5140. These caps work beautifully on the DC-3014, but not as well on the Omni 101. On the Omni 101, many of the keys did not bottom-out in the same way as the others. This was sufficiently annoying that I removed the IBM 5140 keycaps from the Omni 101 and replaced them with alpha, F-keys, and NumPAd keys from a Dell AT101 Old Logo board. Even though my Dell was not old enough to have PBT caps, I still preferred the feel of the Dell keys to the originals on the Northgate.
I've also installed an Orihalcon/Soarer internal USB converter and a panel-mount micro-USB connector for a detachable micro-USB cable. As with most of my keyboards, I have remapped keys to achieve a HHKB-like layout
This DC-3014 is a very enjoyable keyboard. The blue Alps work extremely well. The keys that were initially unresponsive now work just fine -- I did not need to open and clean the switches.
@keycap: Thanks for the desoldering tips. To date, I have not desoldered switches from any of my keyboards. I still want to make a custom 60% with blue Alps, but thus far I have found that I prefer to use the keyboards rather than dismantle them. If I ever acquire an "extra" keyboard with blue Alps and a layout that I find particularly difficult to use, I will consider harvesting switches for the custom build.
Despite the mixed origins of the keycaps, the profiles match and the colors and textures are close enough not to be jarring to the eye, especially when in actual use rather than being scrutinized in a photo. I also don't notice the difference in keycap composition when typing because most of the time I am in contact with the dye-sub PBT alpha keys. I do, however, really appreciate the dry feel of PBT when I compare this setup with another keyboard that has stock doubleshot ABS caps on all of the keys.
There is an interesting difference between the LE DC-3014 with blue Alps and the Northgate Omnikey 101 with white Alps regarding fitting them with dye-sublimated PBT keycaps from an IBM 5140. These caps work beautifully on the DC-3014, but not as well on the Omni 101. On the Omni 101, many of the keys did not bottom-out in the same way as the others. This was sufficiently annoying that I removed the IBM 5140 keycaps from the Omni 101 and replaced them with alpha, F-keys, and NumPAd keys from a Dell AT101 Old Logo board. Even though my Dell was not old enough to have PBT caps, I still preferred the feel of the Dell keys to the originals on the Northgate.
I've also installed an Orihalcon/Soarer internal USB converter and a panel-mount micro-USB connector for a detachable micro-USB cable. As with most of my keyboards, I have remapped keys to achieve a HHKB-like layout
This DC-3014 is a very enjoyable keyboard. The blue Alps work extremely well. The keys that were initially unresponsive now work just fine -- I did not need to open and clean the switches.
@keycap: Thanks for the desoldering tips. To date, I have not desoldered switches from any of my keyboards. I still want to make a custom 60% with blue Alps, but thus far I have found that I prefer to use the keyboards rather than dismantle them. If I ever acquire an "extra" keyboard with blue Alps and a layout that I find particularly difficult to use, I will consider harvesting switches for the custom build.
- y11971alex
- Location: Toronto, ON
- Main keyboard: MacBook Air
- Main mouse: Microsoft Sculpt Comfort
- Favorite switch: buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: 0172
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
- y11971alex
- Location: Toronto, ON
- Main keyboard: MacBook Air
- Main mouse: Microsoft Sculpt Comfort
- Favorite switch: buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: 0172
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
The very first pic in this thread was taken from the DT wiki. Not my table!