Fixing ssk membrane?

User avatar
Ir0n

21 Jan 2017, 14:12

So I got this off a dude recently for 70 bucks thinking I got a pretty slick deal. Looking over the top part of the case it looked alright it sounded like it was filled with fucking smartees though so I was like okay great I'll bolt mod it.

The bottom...jesus it looks like it was crushed and then pulled out from under something!



Image

So I get it home and open the thing up and sure enough almost every rivet was broke off.

Now here is the thing that crushed my soul.
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The smaller ribbon cable was broken in half the other half sticking out of the control board

How the hell does that happen? surely the case would have busted open if there was that much force on it right?

Anyways... is there anyway to fix this cleanly? I'm pretty sure you can sand some of the plastic away and just run wires from it, but jesus I'm already awful at soldering I'd hate to screw it up more.. I'm open to ideas.

Edit: Looking at it more a lot of the clips on the inside are chipped.. this is some weird damage. >_> I might just have a 70 dollar beat up case for my model MF now. :lol:

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

21 Jan 2017, 15:41

Unicomp offers repair services that can fix about anything, but I think there is a $30 minimum, and they also sell membranes and controllers. Contact them.

My recommendation is to chalk this one up to experience and buy another M, preferably a cheap incomplete one that you can fill out from what you have here. Anyway, you have a good parts donor for future work.

User avatar
Ir0n

21 Jan 2017, 15:54

fohat wrote: Unicomp offers repair services that can fix about anything, but I think there is a $30 minimum, and they also sell membranes and controllers. Contact them.

My recommendation is to chalk this one up to experience and buy another M, preferably a cheap incomplete one that you can fill out from what you have here. Anyway, you have a good parts donor for future work.
Oh this isn't a model m this is a SSK model m lol.
Unless unicomp does have ssk parts..O_o

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

21 Jan 2017, 16:51

I didn't pick up on the SSK part (duh).

A full-sized membrane set can be simply folded away under the internal assembly. They are available from Unicomp but a bolt-mod will be required to install it.

It will still be active but no signals will be coming out of that section it. But be sure you get the similar configuration to what you have - controllers changed size, configuration, and location over the years and the modern cheap ones are all the way on the right with lame "pressure" connections.

The case is the hard part. Is it functional and/or can it be repaired with epoxy and/or Dremel work?
If the top looks good it really won't matter if the unseen repair job is ugly.

User avatar
Ir0n

21 Jan 2017, 17:25

Buddy I have no idea how it got in the shape it's in to be honest with you... The top of it looks fine, but the bottom and the insides are another story.

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I've never seen the insides of a BS board so jacked up.
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The bolt modding isn't a problem Lol I'm doing 2 today and this is one of them.

I actually have a spare membrane from another board so i'm pretty happy to hear you can just kind of fold it.. would you mind if I shoot you a PM later if I have a question? Lol

I never really looked at the boards, but they are the same as the full size model M wowza (at least this one).
Image

Thanks for the help! I appreciate it a lot.

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

21 Jan 2017, 18:01

Ir0n wrote:
I actually have a spare membrane from another board so i'm pretty happy to hear you can just kind of fold it.
I have tried twice to make a chop-job "faux-SSK" and it was the case assembly that got me both times, although some people have done it with epoxy.

The plates can be cut off and the membranes can fold around to the back and simply be "asleep" but the thing that I don't know is whether you can make the "embedded numpad" affair work. I had no intention of ever using that so it was a non-issue to me. Otherwise just be careful not to break any traces or put pressure somewhere that might activate a key scan and it should work OK.

User avatar
Ir0n

21 Jan 2017, 18:35

Looking at it I wish I could just cut the numpad part off, but I guess you can't huh.

As for how I'm going to do the folding I think I'm just going to put something between the numpad part of the membrane and just tape it or something to the back. Won't look good, but at least it will work. (I hope)

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

21 Jan 2017, 19:37

Ir0n wrote:
Won't look good, but at least it will work.
It worked for me. You could slip a piece of paper or saran wrap between the sheets, but I think that the offset that comes from the bend would probably keep the dots from touching anyway.

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

22 Jan 2017, 22:54

So don't keep us in suspense. Did it work?

User avatar
Ir0n

22 Jan 2017, 22:57

I will most definitely post pics when I get around putting it back together. I decided to order a new rubber mat and membrane from unicomp because I had to order a few things anyways.

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

22 Jan 2017, 23:31

The new mat will be a very thin white latex mat instead of the thick black original rubber mats.

I think that the new ones are much better and give a crisper feel.

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