Rotating the M0110 connector

pumasocks

06 Jun 2019, 03:16

Hi everyone. I recently received Hasu's converter and I am planning to place it within the M0110 case. To do this, I need to rotate the existing connector 90 degrees. I'm guessing I need to keep the 4 pins in the original 1,2,3,4 configuration; to keep them in the same order while rotating the connector, I believe I would need to extend each wire by soldering in an "extension". Does anyone know or can recommend the type of wire I should use? Any other ideas on how to rotate this connector would be appreciated.
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Findecanor

06 Jun 2019, 05:20

Isn't there a slot right beside the connector where you could install a discreet micro/mini/C USB connector?

pumasocks

06 Jun 2019, 05:33

Yes, but then I would have to take my Hasu adapter cable and run it from the back through the second slot and back out again. I'm trying to avoid snaking the cable from outside/inside/outside. Instead, I should be able to rotate this connector, plug in my adapter, and expose the mini USB connector through the second opening in the case.

Attached is an example of my board; I would ideally rotate the "telephone" like connector and use Hasu's adapter inside the case. The slot has enough room to slide Hasu's converter in between where I would then connect the mini usb cable.
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dcopellino

06 Jun 2019, 21:07

Nice but....
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swampangel

06 Jun 2019, 22:25

pumasocks wrote:
06 Jun 2019, 03:16
I believe I would need to extend each wire by soldering in an "extension". Does anyone know or can recommend the type of wire I should use? Any other ideas on how to rotate this connector would be appreciated.
If you're going to desolder the connector to rotate it, why not just solder new wires straight from the (1, 2, 3, 4) holes on the pcb to your converter? (obviously keep the original connector somewhere safe)

pumasocks

07 Jun 2019, 05:20

This sounds like a great idea. Do you know what kind of wire I would use?

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swampangel

07 Jun 2019, 13:50

I have https://smile.amazon.com/Electronix-Exp ... 00B4ZRPEY/ which I use for most projects. There are many similar options, but make sure you get one with solid wire, not 'stranded', which is much more annoying to work with.

pumasocks

11 Jun 2019, 15:46

swampangel wrote:
07 Jun 2019, 13:50
I have https://smile.amazon.com/Electronix-Exp ... 00B4ZRPEY/ which I use for most projects. There are many similar options, but make sure you get one with solid wire, not 'stranded', which is much more annoying to work with.
I have the cables, but Hasu's directions aren't clear to me. Am I wiring this straight or crossover? I removed the 4p4c jacks from the keyboard and the converter. The converter had its jack in the "crossover" slot and examining the cable that came with the adapter, it appears to be a crossover cable. This doesn't make sense as the Apple M0110 cable is supposed to be straight.

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swampangel

11 Jun 2019, 17:17

pumasocks wrote:
11 Jun 2019, 15:46
I have the cables, but Hasu's directions aren't clear to me. Am I wiring this straight or crossover? I removed the 4p4c jacks from the keyboard and the converter. The converter had its jack in the "crossover" slot and examining the cable that came with the adapter, it appears to be a crossover cable. This doesn't make sense as the Apple M0110 cable is supposed to be straight.
First, just to double check, did you verify that the converter+cable+M0110 worked okay before you started all this?

I don't know a lot about the prebuilt hasu's converter (I've always made my own with a pro micro) but you can reverse engineer the pin assignments.

If you go to https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=24965.0 and look for "Socket pinout" you will see the 4 wires for the socket on the M0110 -- 5V, clock, data and ground.

I'm not sure if his #s match the #s on the pcb, so you should verify it yourself.

Put the socket back on the pcb (no need to solder it) and use a multimeter or continuity tester to check if pin 1 on the pcb is actually the same as pin 1 on hasu's diagram or if they're different (repeat for all pins).

Then, take the M0110 socket, the socket from the converter, and the included (crossover?) cable and attach them together, then do the same continuity test to figure out which pin on the *converter* end is electrically the same as your pin 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the M0110 pcb/socket end. Now you have the info you need to wire converter to keyboard.

I know this is obvious to some, but check your work twice every time :) The usual rule is it won't hurt if you get clock and data wrong, but reversing 5V and ground is bad news for your board.

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