Model M Fast Screw Mod??

Tritian · 07 Mar 2020, 09:22

I understand that a lot of model m's require the screw or bolt mod due to deteriation of the plastic rivets that hold it's internals together.

I've seen some youtube videos about the bolt mod which seemed a bit labor intensive. I've heard the Screw mod is easier, but it looks like that tutorial from Phosphorglow doesn't exist anymore. The video has been taken private.

Then I stumbled across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5k53eh-Rk3E

Is this all that is required? I can drill the mechanism from the back without taking it apart, and just screw in the screws? This seems a lot easier, however this is the only video i've found showing this technique, and the screw modding tutorials i've read talk about complete dissassembly and then drilling from the front just like the Bolt mod....

This is my first post here and i'm new to the buckling springs scene, so go easy on me.

dcopellino · 07 Mar 2020, 10:49

Hi Tritian, I can confirm that the screw mod is far easier than the bolt mod that's a very pain in the ass. I practised both of them and I can assure you that the bolt mod performed on an old IBM model m terminal no LEDs, also involved a ladder so that the keyboard didn't touch any surface during the process of plate fastening. A real nightmare. On the other hand, the screw mod, made with little m2 wood screws has been quite easy, even though I opened the keyboard plates in order to make sure any plastic pieces from broken rivets didn't fall off underneath spring hammers or caused any kind of hindrance in key mechanism. As you can see from the pictures taken before the operations, I made use of a Dremel with a drilling tip of 2 mm making almost as many holes as rivets there were on the back plate. I preferred making them straight on plastic without using the back plate as mask. If you block the keyboard plates with some vices before cutting old rivets out, I think you might get the job done with less effort, I suppose, but it could prove to be asurgical work. How much were you good at little surgeon when child?

Spoiler:

Let me know your thoughts about it.
Ciao

Tritian · 07 Mar 2020, 12:14

Interesting, I didn't think about having little pieces of plastic rattling around within the mechanism after I was done. How much of an issue is that? Should I not consider a partial screw mod, since I then couldn't seperate the mechanism and ensure there is no plastic debris blocking flippers?

That's a lovely M122 you have. Did you add those lock lights custom? I havent seen any M122's with lock lights, except the newer Unicomp ones.

clickykeyboards · 07 Mar 2020, 15:37

Thanks for linking to our old ClickyKeyboards video. I normally do hundreds of model M restorations every year and I would not describe the work as “fast”.

: 28128FBE-D458-4F18-9C84-F144CEDF914C.jpeg (3.68 MiB) Viewed 2926 times

When I was in graduate school (neuroscience) in the 1990s, one of the research rotations was in neuroanatomy and neurosurgery and I worked with surgeons and surgical drills and micro drill bits and learned how to do precision work. Adapting the lessons learned has helped decades later with model M keyboard restorations.

As long as one is precise with making the right holes and not rushing and uses the right tools, parts, and clean techniques then it all results in a good and clean outcome.

It takes some practice to “do no harm” and not crack the plastic barrel plate or to incorrectly “miss” and make a mess of debris.

dcopellino · 07 Mar 2020, 16:35

Tritian wrote: 07 Mar 2020, 12:14 Interesting, I didn't think about having little pieces of plastic rattling around within the mechanism after I was done. How much of an issue is that? Should I not consider a partial screw mod, since I then couldn't seperate the mechanism and ensure there is no plastic debris blocking flippers?

That's a lovely M122 you have. Did you add those lock lights custom? I havent seen any M122's with lock lights, except the newer Unicomp ones.

It's not common to face plastic debris issues with model Ms but I think they might occur according to keyboard conditions. Anyway, working with plates still fastened together i don't think it's the best, unless you are Mr ClickyKeyboard (@E. - Even if reading your notes about neuroscience made me shiver a little bit. It was not pleasing reading of a drill and surgeon in the same period).

My Model M122 is a particular one. It's an IBM model M 1397000. If you want to deep, more info here: http://www.seasip.info/VintagePC/ibm_1397000.html
As far as I know it s the only 122 that doesn't need a soarer's conveter to work with modern pcs. It's a ps/2. Have a look to keys layout.... try searching for the ESC key.....
click on my profile to have a look to my whole collection

Tritian · 08 Mar 2020, 12:39

heh, I see. okay, i guess i'll take it all apart and do a full screw mod. rats... thought I could get away with a partial mod.