Stuff you just bought

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zrrion

01 May 2020, 02:25

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Got some brother keyboards, I'm hoping that at least one is capacitive. Will be interesting to see how they differ from their typewriters.

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dcopellino

21 May 2020, 22:26

The perfect companion to my last acquisition... Pratically a side car to finally properly play at marble madness. I don't think may be something more vintage than 8bit style vintage videogame straight from '80s.....
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JP!

22 May 2020, 06:49

dcopellino wrote:
21 May 2020, 22:26
The perfect companion to my last acquisition... Pratically a side car to finally properly play at marble madness. I don't think may be something more vintage than 8bit style vintage videogame straight from '80s.....
Haha, I love it.

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JP!

22 May 2020, 06:54

I had a dry spell for a bit of not buying anything during this pandemic but I just grabbed this massive Micro Switch board.

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John Doe

22 May 2020, 06:58

Oh, JP, you always could dig out rare stuff, jealous.

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dcopellino

22 May 2020, 07:41

JP! wrote:
22 May 2020, 06:54
I had a dry spell for a bit of not buying anything during this pandemic but I just grabbed this massive Micro Switch board.


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That red anti-panic button is worth the purchase, so as the spherical caps to sanitise....ahaha!!

John Doe

28 May 2020, 06:55

two pads
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JP!

21 Jun 2020, 21:55

Just some IBM swag

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This Ad blends two of my hobbies together
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John Doe

16 Aug 2020, 06:32

~~~
Last edited by John Doe on 20 Aug 2020, 07:11, edited 1 time in total.

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zrrion

16 Aug 2020, 17:16

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Not sure what's inside the thing but it looks really cool and I've been wanting to get a working TTY/TDD for a bit so hopefully this is the one

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Polecat

20 Aug 2020, 04:26

Costar CSK-2102. White Alps (not the early ones unfortunately...), Arabic sublegends. Appears new--immaculately clean, zero shine on the caps, and the cord is still in plastic. Worth sleeping in the van over? Probably not, but I couldn't resist.
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Costar CSK-2102
Costar CSK-2102
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CSK-2102 switches and caps
CSK-2102 switches and caps
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gianni

20 Aug 2020, 11:51

I used to find a lot of this stuff for cheap prices... Now the supply has quite dried out and the prices have steeply increased.
JP! wrote:
21 Jun 2020, 21:55
Just some IBM swag


think.jpg

This Ad blends two of my hobbies together

pc.jpg

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hellothere

19 Sep 2020, 00:26

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Bought from another forum member. Let's see. That's a 10u spacebar and a 3u = key on the numpad. Cool.

The board has all yellow Alps, except the spacebar, which is grey Alps. RJ11 connector, I think. The "raspberry colored" key caps are double-shot grey/raspberry. The white keys are grey/white double-shot. Made in 1985. There's no manufacturer name on the PCB. One of the chips has an NEC sticker.

The only solid info I've found on this is that it's probably from a Cumulus TA-15 terminal. Looks like the company was sold in 1987 and/or 1994.

kelvinhall05

19 Sep 2020, 00:32

hellothere wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 00:26
DSC_0272S.jpg
Bought from another forum member. Let's see. That's a 10u spacebar and a 3u = key on the numpad. Cool.

The board has all yellow Alps, except the spacebar, which is grey Alps. RJ11 connector, I think. The "raspberry colored" key caps are double-shot grey/raspberry. The white keys are grey/white double-shot. Made in 1985. There's no manufacturer name on the PCB. One of the chips has an NEC sticker.

The only solid info I've found on this is that it's probably from a Cumulus TA-15 terminal. Looks like the company was sold in 1987 and/or 1994.
Me and several others all wanted this board for quite a while but that missing keycap is such a turn-off.

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mcmaxmcmc

19 Sep 2020, 03:07

hellothere wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 00:26
DSC_0272S.jpg
Bought from another forum member. Let's see. That's a 10u spacebar and a 3u = key on the numpad. Cool.
I regret to inform you that this is not the 10u spacebar. It's 9u.

That's it, really; nice board :)

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hellothere

19 Sep 2020, 03:25

mcmaxmcmc wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 03:07
I regret to inform you that this is not the 10u spacebar. It's 9u.
Hm. I counted twice and was wrong. Math is hard. And I was excited about this keyboard :D

Anyhow, I'm going to post in the Marketplace to get two new keys -- the Y, IIRC, was hanging there by a thread and I don't know if glue will help. If I can get blank grey caps, I'd be happy. It also has two bad switches: obviously the 9, but there was another stem cracked on one of the keys for the num pad. Also a Marketplace request. EDIT: Of course orihalcon has Yellow Alps switches for sale, so I bought a couple.

I'm not necessarily looking forward to either clean these switches or building an adapter, but it'll be educational.

Also ... this isn't the only thing I just bought. One's just uncommon. Another is extremely rare (but not necessarily valuable, of course). A third's just fun. I'll post when I have a chance to take good pics.

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hellothere

20 Sep 2020, 04:00

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Stackpole!

Keyboard is badged, "Zephyr." The PCB has "Stackpole" right on it. Manufactured 08/1985.

I saw a video from Chyros regarding the green Stackpole switches in the TI 99/4A and he said that they were pretty stiff. The switches in this keyboard are linear, like the TI 99/4a, but they're fairly light. Around Cherry MX brown-level. Maybe slightly more.

The key caps are these enormous chunks of double-shot ABS that I retr0brighted today. Standard white on the "main" part of the keyboard and light grey for the modifiers. The white ones are also textured. Interestingly, the only key that has a stabilizer is the spacebar.

The case is orange-ish brown. I don't know if I'll retr0bright it. I've not been having good luck with cases that are really bad.

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Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

20 Sep 2020, 06:46

hellothere wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 03:25
Anyhow, I'm going to post in the Marketplace to get two new keys -- the Y, IIRC, was hanging there by a thread and I don't know if glue will help. If I can get blank grey caps, I'd be happy. It also has two bad switches: obviously the 9, but there was another stem cracked on one of the keys for the num pad. Also a Marketplace request. EDIT: Of course orihalcon has Yellow Alps switches for sale, so I bought a couple.
Blank gray keycaps would be a good fit, I didn't know about the cracked stem on the numpad :oops:
At least the numpad keycap is still intact :D
hellothere wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 03:25
I'm not necessarily looking forward to either clean these switches or building an adapter, but it'll be educational.
Adapter shouldn't be too hard to make, cleaning switches however will take time.
hellothere wrote:
20 Sep 2020, 04:00
DSC_0268A.jpg
Stackpole!
Keyboard is badged, "Zephyr." The PCB has "Stackpole" right on it. Manufactured 08/1985.
Such a great picture of that yellow goodness, such an interesting switch with the contact mechanism in plain view.
hellothere wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 03:25
The key caps are these enormous chunks of double-shot ABS that I retr0brighted today. Standard white on the "main" part of the keyboard and light grey for the modifiers. The white ones are also textured. Interestingly, the only key that has a stabilizer is the spacebar.
I would love to see the results of the keycap retr0brite. I have never done it myself, and could use some inspiration.
hellothere wrote:
19 Sep 2020, 03:25
The case is orange-ish brown. I don't know if I'll retr0bright it. I've not been having good luck with cases that are really bad.
Hmm, I feel like it would be worth it so they can match the caps. Maybe try a different method? There are quite a few retr0brite guides on DT I believe.

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hellothere

20 Sep 2020, 19:22

> I would love to see the results of the keycap retr0brite.
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Caps are still a bit wet, so I have to wait to put them on the keyboard. There`s also a bit of retr0bright residue on them, so I'll probably sonic them a couple more times.

> Cumulus
I found an ebay auction for single grey keycaps with black lettering, so I'm going to see if those will do the trick. I bought 4 yellow Alps from orihalcon, so even if a couple of the other switches are bad, I have extras.

I probably need to get a multimeter and learn how to use it before I can make an adapter.

> retr0bright
The only boards I've had success with are ones that I've "painted" with retr0bright, but that eats through my gallon of 50V developer pretty quickly. I've tried complete submersion: I have keyboard-sized cardboard boxes that I put a garbage bag in and I put the keyboard on top. Works, but it's a little blotchy. I've got a few sets of keycaps I need to retr0bright, first.

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Polecat

21 Sep 2020, 03:36

Focus FK-2001, an early example with white Alps and unbranded upper housings, circa 1989. This one has an inspection number very close to my other early 2001, which has blue Alps switches. The case and caps on this one are yellowed, but the switches are absolutely lovely. These are the switches that feel and sound like blues, at a tenth the price, and this is the fourth or fifth keyboard I own with them. Exactly the opposite of the last white Alps board I found--a Costar from 1992 or so, which is bright and shiny, probably never used, but with switches so terrible that most of them stick and some even squeak like a baby vulture. So...do I transplant these switches into the Costar or some other board, or try to retrobrite it (which would be my first try at that), or just clean it up and keep it as it is?
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hellothere

22 Sep 2020, 03:06

Now that I've owned several older Alps and Alps clone keyboards, I realize that Tai-Hao keycaps are really common. Anyhow, they do take to retr0brighting extremely well. For the case, itself, if you can remove the "2001" logo, the F key legend strip, and the indicator light strip, you should be good on retr0brighting that, too: one of my success stories for an entire case was a Focus 8000.

EDIT: Sorry. I was going to mention that you might want to check how bad that rust is before doing much else.

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Polecat

22 Sep 2020, 03:53

hellothere wrote:
22 Sep 2020, 03:06
Now that I've owned several older Alps and Alps clone keyboards, I realize that Tai-Hao keycaps are really common. Anyhow, they do take to retr0brighting extremely well. For the case, itself, if you can remove the "2001" logo, the F key legend strip, and the indicator light strip, you should be good on retr0brighting that, too: one of my success stories for an entire case was a Focus 8000.

EDIT: Sorry. I was going to mention that you might want to check how bad that rust is before doing much else.
Thank you for the encouragement! The rust spots are minimal on this one; it's actually very clean inside. If I restore the keyboard I'll remove the switches and clean and paint the plate. I've done that on several other Alps keyboards. I'm much more intimidated by the retrobrighting process. I've seen tips from some very credible people here that say everything from just put it in the sun for a few hours to detailed instructions on how to dip and soak things in a sealed container and not let them dry out. And some horror stories about spotting and streaking. I have a couple other 2001 cases in pretty decent shape, but every dang set of Focus keycaps I have is irregularly yellowed, so I think I should start with the caps and go from there.

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hellothere

22 Sep 2020, 17:33

I'll first mention that I'm not a chemist or chemist adjacent.

I think the biggest thing is to have direct sunlight. I don't have a problem with that out here, because I live in a desert and we have high UV warnings almost every day. I think the second thing is to make sure that whatever you're retr0brighting stays wet. I think that if it's all dry, I think that's the end of the chemical reaction.

I'm not so sure on the "sealed container." The combination of stuff I use, 50V cream developer ($19 per gallon at Amazon) and OxiClean (about $5 on Amazon, IIRC -- and you don't need much, maybe a tablespoon), kind of implies that you want oxygen. Also, the reaction does produce heat and the elephant toothpaste foam, so I'd worry about a sealed container bursting.

I think someone mentioned to remove the foam/elephant's toothpaste every so often. I've not done this with keycaps, but I might try it on cases. Do note that if you're doing this on keycaps, the foam can carry those keycaps away. When I do caps, I put down a couple cardboard boxes so the caps don't migrate too far away :).

When I do key caps, I put them in a glass baking dish, which fits 101 to 108 keys perfectly. I stir them every half hour or so.

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Polecat

23 Sep 2020, 03:22

hellothere wrote:
22 Sep 2020, 17:33
I'll first mention that I'm not a chemist or chemist adjacent.

I think the biggest thing is to have direct sunlight. I don't have a problem with that out here, because I live in a desert and we have high UV warnings almost every day. I think the second thing is to make sure that whatever you're retr0brighting stays wet. I think that if it's all dry, I think that's the end of the chemical reaction.

I'm not so sure on the "sealed container." The combination of stuff I use, 50V cream developer ($19 per gallon at Amazon) and OxiClean (about $5 on Amazon, IIRC -- and you don't need much, maybe a tablespoon), kind of implies that you want oxygen. Also, the reaction does produce heat and the elephant toothpaste foam, so I'd worry about a sealed container bursting.

I think someone mentioned to remove the foam/elephant's toothpaste every so often. I've not done this with keycaps, but I might try it on cases. Do note that if you're doing this on keycaps, the foam can carry those keycaps away. When I do caps, I put down a couple cardboard boxes so the caps don't migrate too far away :).

When I do key caps, I put them in a glass baking dish, which fits 101 to 108 keys perfectly. I stir them every half hour or so.
Again, thank you. Instead of "sealed" I should have said "covered", to keep the solution from evaporating. Presumably that's to prevent spotting or streaking. The Amazon product suggestions are especially helpful. I have lots of yellowed Northgate and Focus caps, so I don't mind risking a set if there's some hope of success.

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hellothere

24 Sep 2020, 02:06

Remember to get good gloves and safety glasses. Retr0bright causes chemical burns that aren't especially pleasant.

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