Tips for Beginner Vintage Board Hunter

[lisp-machine]

I'm going to be carefully combing the area where I live for any secondhand vintage keyboards (calling recyclers, checking thrift stores, etc.). Do you have any tips for things to look out for when hunting/buying older keyboards? Any specific models I should keep an eye out for? I am quite new to this, so thanks for any assistance!

[Wazrach]

Even though your chances of finding something in person are going to be harder, at least you can use your fingers to judge if a keyboard at least feels good to type on. Keep an eye out for IBM keyboards. The IBM Models M are great and fairly common, although you may strike gold and find a Model F. Look for Apple Extended Keyboards and Zenith Data Systems keyboards with Alps switches. Dell AT101s are extremely common keyboards with good build quality and Black Alps switches, which can be modded to linear or clicky, which may help you get a feel for what you want. Familiarise yourself with keyboards that are likely to have good switches and those that are likely to be shit. Usually, the older the better.

[lisp-machine]

Even though your chances of finding something in person are going to be harder, at least you can use your fingers to judge if a keyboard at least feels good to type on. Keep an eye out for IBM keyboards. The IBM Models M are great and fairly common, although you may strike gold and find a Model F. Look for Apple Extended Keyboards and Zenith Data Systems keyboards with Alps switches. Dell AT101s are extremely common keyboards with good build quality and Black Alps switches, which can be modded to linear or clicky, which may help you get a feel for what you want. Familiarise yourself with keyboards that are likely to have good switches and those that are likely to be shit. Usually, the older the better.

Cool. Thank you!

[fohat]

A decade ago the pastures were a lot greener in the discard arena. These days, most 2nd-hand shops ignore anything that doesn't have a USB cable, which is likely to be worthless.

A PS/2 keyboard might have possibilities, but an AT cable is more likely to be something good.

Unfortunately, there are no obvious markers for interesting switches, and there was a lot of junk out there even before the "Windows" key became the norm, ~1995.

I like clicky keyboards, so anything that clicks is worth giving a shot, in my opinion, if the price is right.

[lisp-machine]

A decade ago the pastures were a lot greener in the discard arena. These days, most 2nd-hand shops ignore anything that doesn't have a USB cable, which is likely to be worthless.

A PS/2 keyboard might have possibilities, but an AT cable is more likely to be something good.

Unfortunately, there are no obvious markers for interesting switches, and there was a lot of junk out there even before the "Windows" key became the norm, ~1995.

I like clicky keyboards, so anything that clicks is worth giving a shot, in my opinion, if the price is right.

So you think my best bet (besides sites like Ebay/Craigslist) is contacting e-recycling centers in the area? I have also heard that thrift stores will probably be a waste of time.

[raoulduke-esq]

Beware of the word “clicky” on eBay because 99.9999% of sellers don’t know what that means and put it on anything beige or old or even those dreadful Dell and HP abortions that come with computers…

[xxhellfirexx]

Keep in mind that just because a keyboard is old and has "mechanical" switches, it does not mean it is good. I can type faster on a nicely weighted rubber dome keyboard (eg. https://www.amazon.ca/WYSE-Thin-Client- ... B01FDVF15E) than a poorly weighted mechanical keyboard. I have never seen a rubber dome keyboard have keys bind on off center keypresses and most have greased stabilizer wires to prevent rattle. But, old mechanical keyboards, not so much.

The most important thing I think is that the switch weighting and feeling is right for you (not too light ~35 g or stiff ~70 g/off center keypresses do not bind/enough key travel), the key layout is usable (enough modifier keys, enough function keys, symbol keys are present and correctly labelled), the keyboard has an easily convertible protocol (XT/AT/AT Extended/ADB), and the keyboard is built to last (thick ABS or PBT keycaps, plate mounted switches, and metal backplate).

[lisp-machine]

Keep in mind that just because a keyboard is old and has "mechanical" switches, it does not mean it is good. I can type faster on a nicely weighted rubber dome keyboard (eg. https://www.amazon.ca/WYSE-Thin-Client- ... B01FDVF15E) than a poorly weighted mechanical keyboard. I have never seen a rubber dome keyboard have keys bind on off center keypresses and most have greased stabilizer wires to prevent rattle. But, old mechanical keyboards, not so much.

The most important thing I think is that the switch weighting and feeling is right for you (not too light ~35 g or stiff ~70 g/off center keypresses do not bind/enough key travel), the key layout is usable (enough modifier keys, enough function keys, symbol keys are present and correctly labelled), the keyboard has an easily convertible protocol (XT/AT/AT Extended/ADB), and the keyboard is built to last (thick ABS or PBT keycaps, plate mounted switches, and metal backplate).

Yes, I am definitely not looking for the be-all end-all of keyboards. In fact, I have a nice clicky ~45g Razer board for daytime operation and a much quieter rubber dome for nighttime, so I'm looking for another option to liven up my many hundreds of hours of typing. Also something about the colors and design of older boards just enchants me.

And thanks for clarifying what are some of the connector types to look for. I only knew about ADB from that list. I actually have an Apple Keyboard II from a Color Classic available to use, but I haven't gotten around to building a custom ADB converter for macro/layer goodness, and I don't want to separate it from the gorgeous and perfectly functional Color Classic.

[Jan Pospisil]

A few simple visual notes:
- the bigger and heavier, the more interesting (with exceptions of course, there are some very cool space saving keyboards)
- windows keys are usually a sign of less interest (with exceptions)
- big DIN plugs > smaller PS/2 plugs > ...well, there's almost 0% chance of USB on anything being of interest
- thickness matters - you'll learn to notice that hollowed out back that signals a membrane board. (dome with slider boards are also thicker, but they can also be quite nice)
- dirt is not always a sure identifier of an unusable board, but keycap shine often indicates the switches will be "well used"

[xxhellfirexx]

- windows keys are usually a sign of less interest (with exceptions)

Those exceptions include clicky NMB space invaders, Focus keyboards with Alps clones, and Dell AT-101 keyboards with Silitek simplified Alps.

[an_achronism]

Beware of the word “clicky” on eBay because 99.9999% of sellers don’t know what that means and put it on anything beige or old or even those dreadful Dell and HP abortions that come with computers…

Yeah if I had a tenner for every time I saw a "CLICKY!!!" eBay keyboard that was actually a rubber dome mat thing I'd probably be able to buy another F77