Morse keyer based on a ti99/4a module: The Morsesaver [GI SKCC]

User avatar
zrrion

30 Dec 2021, 09:47

A homemade Morse keyer is a very interesting thing to see, not very common. This one uses a ti99/4a keyboard to run the operation and for a Morse keyboard that makes a lot of sense, especially for a keyer this bare bones. There's no speed, pitch, or weight control, no buffer it has a buffer of some sort but its hard to tell what's going on with only a single LED to go off of, no built in speaker. This thing doesn't even have a power switch. With so little that it needs a 4a keyboard works fine. There aren't many superfluous keys present and the modules appear to have been a commonly available as kit keyboards since no one was using them for the machine they were meant for (and I don't blame them.)

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This is the only output this has. As for inputs we have a power cable. Nothing else.

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The brains are pretty simple as well.

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The case itself is pretty simple, there's a flat piece of metal on the bottom, some standoffs support the brains, brackets support the cool red sides of the case as well as the keyboard, and a bent metal top screws into the bottom plate with 6 screws. I don't know how much of this was done at home. the PCBs were probably etched non-commercially since they don't have a logo but the design could have been from a magazine for all I know and the case may or may not have been commercially available as well. There's no identification on anything other than the chip numbers and the name "Hollock" is penciled on the eprom. Other than that I have nothing to go off of so your guess is as good as mine. I have yet to determine if this outputs sound or if it is meant for relay activation. I'll hook it up to a scope or a pot and a speaker at some point and see what is going on.

Operation of the device is simple, you type and the LED blinks as the Morse is being sent. There is no buffer and so any presently sending character can be interrupted with by trying to send a new one. It has a buffer but there is no feedback for the buffer being filled that I can deduce. When the CTRL key is pressed it will disable the next code from sending, pressing CTRL and then E and then T sends only the code for T. Likewise the FCTN key disables the next two codes. The shift keys do not appear to do anything aside from block a few keys although that isn't a matrix issue and is likely an issue with the rom. When CTRL or FCTN are used to disable keypresses the shift keys are not considered and can be pressed as often as you like without unblocking anything. The space bar, despite not sending any codes does register as a keypress when CTRL or FCTN are blocking presses. ALPHA LOCK does not have any effect on anything as far as I can tell. the he "- /" key, enter key, "+=" key, "<," key and ">." key also all send codes but I am not able to parse Morse code even moderately slowly and this thing goes way too fast for me to tell what code those keys send from the LED. It's fast enough that I can hardly tell S and O apart and I for sure can't parse SOS from the LED's blinking.

Initially this thing came with a futaba keyboard but I don't particularly care for futaba when I have other better options so I swapped in one of my General Instruments SKCC modules and this thing types like a dream. I considered using an SKCC cream module but I have plenty of cream devices laying around but not a single butterscotch one. I have another GI module as a backup still but that one is down a few switches since it was damaged when I got it. I've also noticed that the stems on the alpha lock key are cracked in the same way on both of the GI SKCC modules I have. Not sure why but they should be easy enough to fix with some glue.
for anyone looking for pics of the keyboard module packaging here you go:
https://i.imgur.com/9vWaCRA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CPJXwqr.jpg

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Since I now have a proper keyboard with these instead of loose modules I can actually comment on their feel and all that. Honestly they're indistinguishable from SKCC cream. Sound is effected by the different keycaps, and the space bar sound is different for sure on account of the weird stabilizer, but key feel is dead on for creams. This is kinda to be expected since they're not a clone or anything, they're genuine SKCC. Just like SKCC cream they're very nice although the space bar's external coil spring is a bit much for me. I have replaced it with my own spring that keeps the space bar noticeably heavier than the normal keys while not being massively heavy. They're good switches for sure but don't break the bank trying to get them when SKCC cream is way more common and feels the same.

here's a typing test: https://v3.fastupload.co/file/12280
and a mirror that takes longer to upload to but has proper licensing and whatnot : https://freesound.org/people/zrrion_the ... ds/613304/

IMO it sounds great. The massive ping is wonderful. Don't know if that's a special property of the case or if this is something that these switches are just good at. The bottom of the case has green felt stuck to the bottom and so there is no gap of any kind between the desk and the board, which I'm sure contributes positively to the sound.
Last edited by zrrion on 15 Sep 2022, 12:23, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
zrrion

31 Dec 2021, 04:41

Okay, so after messing around with this a bit (and putting an old bakelite switch on the power cord) I've found that there are some advanced features on this thing. For instance pressing CTRL and then a number key sends a "string." CTRL+1 probably is a call sign so if I can record the output from this I could probably look the maker up somewhere. not sure what the other numbers do, and 7-0 don't have anything on them.

The FCTN key appears to be for adjustment. FCTN + S + a number controls the speed. setting it to 12 is about my limit as I'm not any good at morse. I learned some for scouts but not enough to actually use it. I'm not sure what speed it initializes at though, speed 00 is way to fast to read and at that speed the LED barely lights up for E so it's not initialized at zero. If it doesn't initialize there my assumption is that it initializes at a speed comfortable for the maker of this device which is pretty fast. I guess to make something like this keyboard yourself back in the day you were probably fast enough that you needed a board to send at the speed you could receive comfortably though so it makes sense.

I've also figured out what the red LED does and it's exactly what you would expect. The red LED is a warning light for the buffer. it will start flashing when the buffer is close to full and will stay on if the buffer is full. At the default speed this goes it is hard to hit the buffer limit and so I was initially unsure what it did but at the slowest speed it is very easy to hit the buffer limit.

I've decided to christen this the Morsesaver. Quite a fun keyboard.

User avatar
Muirium
µ

31 Dec 2021, 12:55

Morsesaver is the ideal name. :D

The front printed legends suggest it could do a lot more than Morse. Especially the arrows: nice HHKB-style nav diamond there. Or, more likely, its maker sourced the keys from something else that could.

User avatar
zrrion

31 Dec 2021, 21:54

zrrion wrote: 30 Dec 2021, 09:47This one uses a ti99/4a keyboard...
2nd sentence on the first post :lol: On the ti99/4a the front legends actually do mean something but on this they do not correlate to any known functionality. I still haven't sussed out what the FCTN key does though so it is possible the front legends have something to do with that. I doubt this is the case but who knows.

User avatar
jsheradin

31 Dec 2021, 22:19

Any plan to dump the ROM? The 6800 has a handful of disassemblers so it shouldn't be too hard to reverse engineer all the hidden functions. A TL866II is cheap and should be able to read it just fine. You could also get crafty with an arduino.

User avatar
zrrion

01 Jan 2022, 06:24

Dumping the ROM isn't a bad idea at all honestly. will look into the TL866II. I'm hoping I can find the kit instructions for this (assuming it is actually a kit machine and not a completely homebrew device) and get some info out of it that way. If I can't I'll see about making a circuit diagram for the thing or something whenever I get around to it.

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