Is AES safe to boil?
- Thorogrimm
- Location: England, UK
- Main keyboard: Niz C103
- Main mouse: Razer Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Topre Electro-Capacitive
I bought some grey iDye recently since I plan on dyeing an HHKB some time soon. However, I'm unsure if the material AES (the plastic used for white HHKB cases) is safe to boil. I've heard ABS is a nono, but is this the same for AES?
- jsheradin
- Location: USA
AES, ABS, and ASA are all pretty much the same physical property wise. ABS will definitely not survive boiling so I'd guess AES would fair just as poorly. Which version of iDye did you get? iDye-poly is specifically meant for polyesters and nylons - it probably won't work too well on AES. The regular stuff is meant for natural fibers so it's also questionable.
Please do share the results if you try though.
Please do share the results if you try though.
- Thorogrimm
- Location: England, UK
- Main keyboard: Niz C103
- Main mouse: Razer Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Topre Electro-Capacitive
I purchased iDye poly. I've heard it works well on PBT but haven't heard many reports on AES seeing as I doubt many people have dared to try it.jsheradin wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 18:26 AES, ABS, and ASA are all pretty much the same physical property wise. ABS will definitely not survive boiling so I'd guess AES would fair just as poorly. Which version of iDye did you get? iDye-poly is specifically meant for polyesters and nylons - it probably won't work too well on AES. The regular stuff is meant for natural fibers so it's also questionable.
Please do share the results if you try though.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
This white HHKB case material?

In Wobbled’s case, it looks even more like ABS than the spacebar! Sure AES isn’t just a typo?
The black HHKB Pro 2 case is definitely ABS. It’s molded into it in big capital letters inside. Been too long since I’ve been inside my white HHKB to remember what it says.
In Wobbled’s case, it looks even more like ABS than the spacebar! Sure AES isn’t just a typo?
The black HHKB Pro 2 case is definitely ABS. It’s molded into it in big capital letters inside. Been too long since I’ve been inside my white HHKB to remember what it says.
- Thorogrimm
- Location: England, UK
- Main keyboard: Niz C103
- Main mouse: Razer Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Topre Electro-Capacitive
Yeah, apparently more recent HHKBs like the Hybrid Type-S use AES which is a more UV resistant ABSMuirium wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 20:08 This white HHKB case material?
In Wobbled’s case, it looks even more like ABS than the spacebar! Sure AES isn’t just a typo?
The black HHKB Pro 2 case is definitely ABS. It’s molded into it in big capital letters inside. Been too long since I’ve been inside my white HHKB to remember what it says.
- wobbled
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB300 Pro 1
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0192
My white Pro 1 is ABS, as is the black pro 1
Same deal with white pro 2 and black pro 2.
The only exception is the Pro 3 Hybrid and Classic where I believe the cases are now PBT?
Same deal with white pro 2 and black pro 2.
The only exception is the Pro 3 Hybrid and Classic where I believe the cases are now PBT?
- wobbled
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB300 Pro 1
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0192
I should probably add if you're going to use iDye Poly on the Pro 3, it'll probably work for you (as long as it is in fact PBT plastic)
Don't attempt it on a Pro 2 or Pro 1, they'd warp under the temperature needed for iDye Poly to work
edit: Pro 3 isn't PBT (I always thought it was thanks to a mistake on fujitsu's website) it's 'AES' which is pretty much the same thing as ABS except it has uv protection qualities.
I would avoid using iDye Poly on that too
Don't attempt it on a Pro 2 or Pro 1, they'd warp under the temperature needed for iDye Poly to work
edit: Pro 3 isn't PBT (I always thought it was thanks to a mistake on fujitsu's website) it's 'AES' which is pretty much the same thing as ABS except it has uv protection qualities.
I would avoid using iDye Poly on that too

- Thorogrimm
- Location: England, UK
- Main keyboard: Niz C103
- Main mouse: Razer Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Topre Electro-Capacitive
Edit: I decided to dye my white Realforce R1 case Silver Grey by filling a box with slightly under-boiled water (to be on the safe side) since someone online mentioned that 60c was fine for ABS. The results are okay, it's dyeing slowly and it's gone sort of a lavender colour after about half an hour.




- Thorogrimm
- Location: England, UK
- Main keyboard: Niz C103
- Main mouse: Razer Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Topre Electro-Capacitive
Update: Dyeing was successful with just hot water. It came out a deep lavender purple

Although, as you can see, some of the dye got to the badge as the tape I used to cover it seemed to lift slightly. Also there's a little dark spot under the spacebar.
Not bad at all however since the dyeing is pretty even

Although, as you can see, some of the dye got to the badge as the tape I used to cover it seemed to lift slightly. Also there's a little dark spot under the spacebar.
Not bad at all however since the dyeing is pretty even
- wobbled
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB300 Pro 1
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0192
Looks to have turned out pretty damn well considering the low temperature you used.
I wonder if you left it in longer, would it continue to darken into the grey you were after?
I wonder if you left it in longer, would it continue to darken into the grey you were after?
- Thorogrimm
- Location: England, UK
- Main keyboard: Niz C103
- Main mouse: Razer Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Topre Electro-Capacitive
To be honest, this is as dark as I'd want it. I could have left it longer but I liked this kind of lavender purplewobbled wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 01:09 Looks to have turned out pretty damn well considering the low temperature you used.
I wonder if you left it in longer, would it continue to darken into the grey you were after?