Dummy guide on replacing Model M spring?

[MFH]

Seems I did it again, I broke one of my Model M springs - don't even know how I did it!

Last time I tried to replace a spring the replacement spring (the one that is now broken!) got pretty damaged but worked. I still have a few replacement springs lying around but it seems like I simply can't insert a new one properly - I already damaged another one!

Is there some kind of dummy guide (with lots of photos preferably!) on how to properly replace springs without already damaging them whilst trying? Or is there maybe an easier way to replace the springs - like opening the Model M?

[webwit]

Is it Sandy's Chopstick method you've tried? The alternative is a Model M bolt mod. Search for these terms for more info.

[MFH]

Yep, Sandy's Chopstick is the method I tried, seems I'm just too clumsy to make it work.

Is the full bolt mod really necessary? My Model M (actually Unicomp Ultra Classic) is not that old that I would expect the rivets to be broken…

Or are the hammers simply not accessible without breaking the rivets?

[webwit]

Yeah you have to break the rivets. If it's just the spring I'd try to get your chopstick skills improved. Don't use a lot of force, and don't make the chopstick fit too tight.

[MFH]

So opening up is not an option. Seems like I'll have to keep trying - do you know any (extensive) guide on this trick? Maybe I'm just missing something crucial…

[Halvar]

The king of dummy guides with lots of photos is of course Ripster, but I guess you know that one already:

http://imgur.com/a/6bnzW

[MFH]

Thanks I didn't know that guide - gonna try it tonight after work and report back

[7bit]

If just the spring is loose but the plstic thing underneath is intact, put some glue at one end of the spring and put it in. Wait 24h and put the key cap on again. Now, just type ...


At least this did work with my 1989 Model M's Caps Lock key.

[MFH]

I don't think glue would be a good idea, if I happen to damage the spring again it would be a world of hurt…

[MFH]

Seems I'm still too stupid to do it. I'm always bending the spring when pushing it down…

[MFH]

So I finally got the spring onto the hammer without damaging it but it doesn't feel right.
The key is only "jumping back" when pressing the right side of the key (backspace) otherwise it's only slowly coming back up after pressing.

Any suggestions on what is wrong with the spring/keyboard?

[wcass]

the backspace key is a double-wide with the buckling spring on the right. if the key is sticking when you hit it on the left, but OK when you hit it on the right, this suggests there is a problem with the left side.

what type of stabilizer does your model M have; pin or wire? does the backspace key cap have a wire on it, or does it have a plastic pin on the left side (thinner, but just as long as the key stem on the other side)?

if you have wire stabilizer then chances are that the wire is not properly tucked into both retention slots or one of the retention slots has broken off. if it is not tucked in then correcting that should take care of the problem. if it is broken then you are going to need to "upgrade" that key with a newer "pin-type" stabilizer insert and key cap (you can get from Unicomp or from a member here on Deskthority).

if your key cap does not have a wire on it then you should have a pin on the key cap and a plastic insert in the barrel. if you look under any of the other double-wide keys you should see the same thing (the space bar is always wire). your backspace key cap or plastic insert might have something on it causing the two to stick. lubrication might fix it or replace the key cap and insert.

[MFH]

My Keyboard uses plastic inserts. Like in this Image: .

Seems I fixed it, by yet again reseating the spring - better now but still not perfect…

In terms of maintenance I would prefer modules like more modern key switches have them. Wasn't there a Buckling Spring design in Japan that used such an approach?