deskthority

Managed to wedge a costar clip where the cherry stab should be in the plate - fits reasonably snugly so I don't have to stick tape anywhere. Have to use alps wires though, (they're a bit thin for the costar clips as well - but they just stay in). Bit of hack but looks to be working. inb4 it explodes ...

i know it's not very fancy, but in a pinch you can just stick some springs over the support mounts.

When you say "support mounts", what do you mean exactly? Do you mean the spaces for inserts on the inside of caps or do you mean where cherry style inserts are for the pcb mount stabs? Cheers

Don't think costars will fit.

Hey folks - i'm in the process of assembling a quefrency board https://keeb.io/products/quefrency-60-65-split-staggered-keyboard?variant=12204552880222 using some alps switches (which the PCB supports). However, i've hit a snag in terms of stabilised keycaps.

I've got a pack of tai hao alps ...

Done some poking around and it looks like soarers doesn't like being connected to a potentially disconnected but powered usb hub, and or it doesn't like my USB 3 controller. It works perfectly in my USB 2 ports that are directly connected to my motherboard.

Now i'm officially bamboozled. I tried my acer101a - had the same broken setup. Swapped back to the zenith and now it's working as intended. perhaps it's something to do with the keyboard id.

ok, it's definitely something wrong with the converter. Just tried out my blue brick with it and the arrow keys work fine.

You shouldn't need to do this with a Soarers. It is clearly stuck in XT mode, but shouldn't need tweaking. See if rebooting helps, that generally fixes it.

The switch on the board is definitely in AT mode. (physically anyway) If I switch to XT the converter just stops working. The board gets ...

Half fixed it with the following config:

remapblock
layer 0
PAD_8 UP
PAD_4 LEFT
PAD_2 DOWN
PAD_6 RIGHT
endblock

I'm not a massive user of the numpad anyway. But i'm confused as to whether the duplicated keycodes are coming from the board itself or from the converter (I would have to guess the ...

A quick look at the way it's been programmed it looks very intentional. The board itself is in AT mode - despite this looking like an XT style hack.

Hey folks. I wonder if anyone has any experience with soarer's converter and a ZKB-2R? I made mine up and it works perfectly fine - however, it would appear the arrow keys are sending the same keycode as what would be sent by the corresponding numpad keys. This confused the hell out me when I was ...

Seems to have done the trick, so far have experienced 0 keycap summersaults. Thanks.

Thanks, are we talking shopping back kind of material?

Just made some zealiostotles and they are really nice, unfortunately they don't fit my keycaps with any tightness at all. In fact - caps occasionally do a summersault if I press certain keys at the wrong angle - it's not that bad, but does anyone know if there's a decent way to alleviate this ...

You might be able to resolve this by using small pliers/tweezers to straighten the tabs.

Another step is the so-called "paper mod" which can be done by inserting a small piece of paper or tape between the outer side of the leaf and the switch housing.

Aha, using a fine pair of tweezers, aligning ...

Sorry for the slow reply, been a little busy. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-Z-4 ... VZPdlQ4MWc contains the best I could get, difficult to capture all of the necessary angles. If anyone can figure out what's wrong with it from those images deserves a cookie.

I always considered this a 'disease' for tactile switches with no known cure - much like many autoimmune diseases these days. It makes sense, though, that it would be because of a misshapen leaf - maybe also from fatigue of the tabs on the tactile leaf as well? Just a guess - I really have no idea ...

Anyone know of a good way of bending tactile leaves back to their original shape? I've noticed some keys on my tactile alps boards have become clicky on the upstroke (and sometimes on the downstroke). From a bit of testing this is due to subtle kinks in the leaf itself (i'm guessing from use ...

And switch replaced, typing on it now in fact. It's a testament to how much the top housing alters the smoothness of the switch. I had to swap out the space bar, discarded the old shell, but kept the internals (sans switch plate). The top housing of this new switch makes the space bar so much more ...

And switch replaced, typing on it now in fact. It's a testament to how much the top housing alters the smoothness of the switch. I had to swap out the space bar, discarded the old shell, but kept the internals (sans switch plate). The top housing of this new switch makes the space bar so much more ...

That worked nicely, thanks - broken too many delicate plastic things to risk not asking

Need to replace a switch in my ZKB-2R, removing the screws in the back plate isn't quite enough - from one of chyros' videos it does indeed look like the back plate is being held on by the flip out feet. Does anyone know the proper way to remove these without damaging them? I can't see any obvious ...

Open the switch and blow lots of compressed air through tge switchplate. From all sides, making sure to dislodge anything trapped in there. Then test. If still not functional, replace.

Gave it a go this morning and looks like it's fixed (which is good because the rest of the switch looks pretty ...

Hey folks, has anyone got any experience will fixing chattering on complicated alps? I assume I need to do something with the contact leaf? Thanks

It seems to the closest thing I can get in the UK is

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Bikes-Cycling-Equipment/Finish-Line-Mountain-Bike-Chain-Lube-120ml/B00365YSTK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498427269&sr=8-2&keywords=dupont+lubricant

Looks like a re-branding, but i'm a bit weary of the use of the word ...

That product is absolutely great for stabilizers, wires, and larger moving components, but do not put it on switches under any circumstances!

If you lube switches at all, you want something very thin and you want to use only a tiny amount. If possible, look for a "dry" lube so that it does not ...

Recently got my hands on some https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,misc&pid=mechlube_2

It's pretty viscous, what would be the correct method of lubing a bunch of ALPS switch stems with this? It doesn't flow so I guess it's not going to be as simple as sticking some of it in a bag and ...

Hey guys, recently got hold of a custom board that features the alps64 pcb by hasu and i'm having some issues with the signal from particular key presses. It was apparently working fine when it was shipped - so something must have happened to it in transit (see pcb below) edit: note that is is just ...

i've got some caps from an AT101

I just got my hands on some orange alps in good condition - does anyone know of an alps compatible pcb + plate floating around? So far i've only seen the planck (me and ortholinear don't get on well). Thanks in advance.