Problem after bolt modding my Model M

[manna]

Hello everyone.

I recently bolt modded my Model M; I had too because I spilled some soda and had to open the keyboard to clean it thoroughly.

The problem is that now everytime I turn on the pc the first icon on the desktop remains highlighted, scrolling does not work despite scroll lock being turned off (turning it on and off resolve both the problems), and the first pressure of the 9 key on the numpad never register, only the second and beyond.

I hope someone can help me, thanks.

[fohat]

Hello everyone.

I recently bolt modded my Model M; I had too because I spilled some soda and had to open the keyboard to clean it thoroughly.

The problem is that now everytime I turn on the pc the first icon on the desktop remains highlighted, scrolling does not work despite scroll lock being turned off (turning it on and off resolve both the problems), and the first pressure of the 9 key on the numpad never register, only the second and beyond.

I hope someone can help me, thanks.

Those keys are close to each other. Try tightening or loosening the bolts in that area.

Sometimes you have to "tune" the tightness of the bolts to get what you want.

[manna]

I tried both tightening and untightening the screws, but the problem is still there.
Using a switch tester it results that the switch is being pressed, so I tried repositioning the keycap but still nothing.
At this point I'm afraid it's the hammer not being placed correctly. Can anyone confirm before I disassemble the keyboard yet again?

Thanks.

[alh84001]

Completely talking out of my ass here, but it looks to me to be more of a controller/membrane issue (caused by spilled soda), if pressing scroll lock on and off, and pressing numpad 9 resolves the issues, and they work consistently after that. And especially if the problems reappear after quickly disconnecting and connecting the keyboard.

[fohat]

At this point I'm afraid it's the hammer not being placed correctly.

Having done at least a dozen Model M bolt mods, probably 2 dozen, I can verify that hammers not properly seated is the most common problem. The part that makes a grown man cry is that you have to install all of the key stems to test it, and take them all back out again to make adjustments. And it is at least as difficult on the Model F, if not much more so.

In fact, there have probably only been a few instances when I got it right on the first go, and it is not unusual to take multiple iterations to get it right. You can test the key to see and hear whether the actuation feels and sounds like the other keys. An improperly seated pivot plate ("flipper foot") seems approximately like an improperly seated key stem.

Do yourself a favor and build a frame out of scrap wood to hold the barrel frame while you are re-assembling.

There is one "fix" that can work, occasionally, if the "ear" is not far out of position: remove the key stem, press straight down onto the foot with a toothpick or chopstick, and attempt to move it laterally just a millimeter or so. On the rare occasion, you get lucky and it drops into place.

[manna]

Took it apart, cleaned again all the membranes and took my time to replace all the hammers correctly .
Now it works like intended.

Thanks for the help!

[keycap]

A note for those who are having issues with their Model M after reassembly, make sure the mylar strip connector on the membrane is fully-secured in the slot on the PCB. I know this is very simple, but it's crazy how many times this has happened to me, even after taking my time to be careful.