So I bought an IBM 5251 recently and noticed that some keycap legends are yellowed, while others are not at all yellowed. First I thought that the reason was unequal exposure to sunlight, but after I removed the keycaps I noticed a pattern emerging. All the yellowed keycaps have an all-white bottom, while the unyellowed ones are white and grey at the bottom.
There are even more differences when closely inspecting the keycaps, but I'll not going into too much detail since the color is enough to distinguish between them.
I have no clue if this has been reported yet, but I thought that this couldn't be coincidence as there was not a single exception on the whole keyboard.
Facts aside, here's what I think about this: Maybe IBM at some point changed their manufacturing process and with it the plastics used. However, I'm not sure if bromine was added, since the bottoms are a bit yellowed as well and shouldn't have seen too much sunlight.
I'm also looking for a way to fix the yellowing, if anyone here has a clue on how I could approach this, just let me know.
IBM 5251 - different keycap plastics?
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- Location: Austria, Vienna
- Main keyboard: currently IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: nothing special
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs / Alps SKCM Brown
Last edited by EnthusiastDude on 09 Apr 2020, 15:25, edited 1 time in total.
- inmbolmie
- Location: Spain
- Main keyboard: Model M SSK
- Main mouse: Some random Logitech
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0230
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Yes, that's something usual specially in the "internationalized" keys like your "Ü". There seems to be different batches of those keycaps or different factories or something that produced different qualities and those with an inferior quality are more prone to yellowing.
I recommend you not to try to fix the yellowing, as with using retrobrite processes with double shots you usually end up ruining the dark plastic and that is far worse and more noticeable than the yellowed legends. Anything you do you will have to do it for both plastics (dark and white) at the same time, and to get a perfect white you will certainly bleach the dark part. Also you won't have anything to test the process first, so you will have only "one try" to get it perfect.
Example: viewtopic.php?t=10065
I recommend you not to try to fix the yellowing, as with using retrobrite processes with double shots you usually end up ruining the dark plastic and that is far worse and more noticeable than the yellowed legends. Anything you do you will have to do it for both plastics (dark and white) at the same time, and to get a perfect white you will certainly bleach the dark part. Also you won't have anything to test the process first, so you will have only "one try" to get it perfect.
Example: viewtopic.php?t=10065
- Invisius
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM 3278
- Main mouse: Microsoft Trackball Explorer
- Favorite switch: Beamspring/Fujitsu Magnetic Reed
- DT Pro Member: 0249
You're right about the manufacturing process changing, especially in EU factories. While these were caps originally made in the late 70s, replacement caps were available well into the 80s.
It's possible the ones yellowing are replacements that were manufactured in the Greenock factory, who were notorious for using ABS spacebars on late 80s Ms. One of the only parts that's yellowed over time on any IBM, even without sun exposure. You can see how similar of a shade it is in the picture attached.
Since the grey portion of the caps looks unaffected, I think it would be difficult to get a uniform retrobright without streaks or turning the greys lighter. Without knowing the composition of each "shot", it's hard to say for sure.
It's possible the ones yellowing are replacements that were manufactured in the Greenock factory, who were notorious for using ABS spacebars on late 80s Ms. One of the only parts that's yellowed over time on any IBM, even without sun exposure. You can see how similar of a shade it is in the picture attached.
Since the grey portion of the caps looks unaffected, I think it would be difficult to get a uniform retrobright without streaks or turning the greys lighter. Without knowing the composition of each "shot", it's hard to say for sure.
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- Location: Austria, Vienna
- Main keyboard: currently IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: nothing special
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs / Alps SKCM Brown
I'm not so sure on that, it appears all over the keyboard and some international keycaps like "Ä" are absolutely pristine.inmbolmie wrote: 09 Apr 2020, 12:39 ... that's something usual specially in the "internationalized" keys like your "Ü".
I thought so too, but am still hopeful that there is a way to fix this. I'll probably try to get some replacement keycaps from a selectric typewriter though before I do anything irreversible.inmbolmie wrote: 09 Apr 2020, 12:39 I recommend you not to try to fix the yellowing, as with using retrobrite processes with double shots you usually end up ruining the dark plastic and that is far worse and more noticeable than the yellowed legends. Anything you do you will have to do it for both plastics (dark and white) at the same time, and to get a perfect white you will certainly bleach the dark part. Also you won't have anything to test the process first, so you will have only "one try" to get it perfect.
- Erderm_
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: IBM 3278
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Beamsprings, Amber alps, Gat yellows
- DT Pro Member: -
+1 for this. My 3278 has only the Ü and the number 1 key are the only yellowed keys. All other ones are white as bone.inmbolmie wrote: 09 Apr 2020, 12:39 Yes, that's something usual specially in the "internationalized" keys like your "Ü". There seems to be different batches of those keycaps or different factories or something that produced different qualities and those with an inferior quality are more prone to yellowing.
(not really sure why the 1 key is yellowed though as I dont think its one of the ones that would be changed for a different layout.