Below are the pictures and my description of the process as I go along. Enjoy:
Original picture from the seller:
On arrival it can be seen the keys are quite grimy and need a thorough clean. Testing it with Soarer's converter confirmed that all keys are functional:
The back has some rusting at the bottom. The cork feet are long gone:
Unscrew the two screws holding the back. Inside backing metal plate has some rust:
Oh dear:
At least I'm lucky that the foam is still good. It has not degenerated completely.
Taking off all of the caps:
Do not remove the spacebar. The backing plate needs to be separated first before this can be done. Rust patches can be seen throughout the top plate:
To detach the plates, remove the one bolt holding them that's visible on the controller:
To separate them fully, one of the metal tabs (the only one that's bent in) must be unbent and then some serious force must be applied horizontally, along the length of the keyboard. A hammer here works quite well. Think of it as sliding a panel door off your PC tower - same kind of mechanism.
Quite gorgeous:
As you saw before, there was some onset of rust along the exposed edges.
Luckily once sanded away there was no pitting. Anyone have recommendations on how I should treat this after sanding? I feel that leaving it exposed this way is a surefire way to invite more rust.
Removal of the spacebar must be done through the back. Detach the stabilizer bar on each sides of the spacebar. Once this is done, the actual keycap can be removed from below.
Close up of the stabilizer tabs:
Remove the spring mechanism:
The foam needed only minor cleaning and still holds up quite well. Will reuse to avoid the headache that others have had to go through.
This top plate requires the most attention. My initial approach is to submerge it in vinegar, scrub with 180 grit sandpaper and then coat in rustoleum. Are there better methods?
Cleaned and detached the coiled cord. Working on putting it back in it's shape. Using a heat gun to slowly warm the length of it, and letting it cool. Works, but slowly. Wondering if I should just leave it out in the sun for an hour or two.
Quick wipe with alcohol of the spring tabs:
Used a Magic Eraser(R) to scrub the top and bottom of the case. Luckily no major damages or scratches. Cleaned the PCB with alcohol:
Gave the keys a long soak in warm water and liquid dish detergent and then cleaned with magic eraser. Cleaned up like new. Cleaned the barrels as well. Actually used XMIT's idea of a salad spinner to dry them.
That's it so far. Next steps:
1) Figure a way to remove the existing rust on top plate and provide some sort of anti-rust protection for future. Same for bottom plate edges.
2) Force the coiled cord back into its original shape
3) Finish building Soarer's converter (currently in breadboarding phase)
Any thoughts, suggestions, or advice is welcome.
